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Right, I'm on the verge of taking a wopping great hammer to my Avid Juicy's trying to fit some new pads....I can't figure it, they've usually been quite easy....
So this is the last time - tomorrow I'm going to buy some new brakes and relegate the Juicy's.
So recommendations for something similar, 160mm disc, xc brake but with EASY pad change and available in the North West. I'd normally buy from CRC or the like but have time tomorrow to fit so can't mail order. Don't really want to pay RRP 😉
Recommendations???
merlin
Where are you in the North West [url= http://www.cyclesurgery.com/Article/96/store-liverpool.html ]CycleSurgery[/url] normally have something in stock and will price match CRC
I'm Manchester/Preston / Bolton but have all day so Cyclesurgery might be an option...
XT
Nuff said
Have you tried pushing the pistons out *really* hard? If that doesn't work, I normally have to take the bleed port cover out of the lever, then push the pistons out so a load of brake fluid comes out of the levers. That lets me put the pads in quite easily after that 🙂
Todays problem with Elixir's was the pads from Disco brakes were just a fraction wide, and so were the springs. Sanded down the pads with wet & dry, springs are the old ones (not ground away thankfully).
Wondering if thats the problem with the new pads for my juicy's. the pistons are as far back as they will go, the adjuster out (or in - whichever way you look at it) but still no joy.
I'm thinking SLX then, I don't want to have the same problem with a set of Elixirs. Don't SLXs have better pad clearance so something like this should be less of a problem?
Problem was at the edge of the pads, tight against the calliper body not clearance between piston and rotor. Took some fettling to get some sort of bite point at the lever. Had to get the calliper in just the right place.
can't figure it, they've usually been quite easy....
My Avid Juicy's have always been an utter pain in the ass to change the pads on. I want to know how yours can have usually been easy! Today I spent 45 minutes in a bike shop, having given up trying to change them myself. Yep, it took experts that long.
So, when you find easy brake pad change Nirvana, please let me know, and I'll be relegating my Juicys for those too. (How can anyone have made such a cr*p design)
I didn't check if that was the problem, though I've had that problem with car brake pads before now - I do think its often the tolerances on the pads rather than caliper design.
Anyhow, I went for SLX, which seem excellent despite needing a bleed after cutting the hose down. The Avids are likely going on the classifieds shortly...
My mate did assure me SLX and other Shimano's he's had have been easy. He laughs at me every time I've had a fight on my hands with other sets of Avis, Hayes etc.
We'll see....
Manchester/[b]Preston [/b]/ Bolton
as already suggested, a trip to Merlin...
I've gone 100% Shimano on all the mountain bikes - XT and SLX on the best bikes, LX on the missus's and Deore on the hack winter frankenbike thing. As far as I can see they all take the same pads, they're a doddle to bleed, fit, fettle and change pads. Just do it.
If you can make it as far south as Congleton, [b][url= http://www.cyclestore.co.uk/ ]Cycle Centre[/url][/b] had SLX's in stock when I got some from them recently.
In the end I popped down to Merlin. Got a free bottle of lube too!
A few tips (I haven't read a lot of this thread)
Have you tried letting somebody else (who has experience changing avid pads) have a go?
Have you still got the metal pad retention spring thing (on the back of the caliper) attached? If so, ditch it, you don't need it, it just gets in the way [unless you try to run without a spring between the pads or the tab on the piston has snapped off]
Get a flat blade screwdriver and keep pushing the pads back. The levers should have an overflow in the cap (mine do) to release excess fluid. If its blocked, then when you really try to push the pads back fluid will come out of the seal all the way around the lever 'top' cap
I've had two sets of Avids over 3 or 4 years....so plenty of pad changes before now...but I do think the 5s are harder to push the pistons back than the 7s? Having also changed pads on a friend's Avid Juicy 5s, which required so much force to lever the pads apart that the disc brake mount was flexing, I think they can be a bit temperamental. Hayes were similar, often needing the bleed port undoing to let fluid out.
Removing the clip spring on the back of the caliper is an interesting tip though.
Still debating whether to sell them or keep and put them on the hardtail...