Just reading up about wheelbuilding for some reason I was under the impression that wheels were normally offset a bit to account for the rotor braking forces...
Looking at the park tools site / sheldon it looks like mtb wheels should be dished centrally both front and rear, so I take it that is right?
I still think it would make sense to offset it though...or am I missing something?
Yes, central. Why not - to even spoke tension?
You employ a different spoke pattern/direction on the rotor side of the wheel to counteract the braking force.
You are kidding right?
the rim is central to the axle nuts but not to the hub flanges
Front disc wheels need to have a bit of dish to take a account of the discs as the hub flange on that side is closer to the centreline... You should lace to suit the brake forces like you do with the rear drive side... Ie not a different pattern but just put trailing and leading spoke on the right side of the hub flange But i reckon in makes bugger all difference if the wheel is well built
[i]the rim is central to the axle nuts but not to the hub flanges [/i]
ok makes sense to me now. I hadn't twigged this bit.
I haven't built a wheel before so a bit of a journey into the unknown
Well worth getting the roger musson pdf wheel building book - it is £9
Just build the wheel with the centre line of the rim sitting on the mid point of the axle. You can get cheap dishing tools to help you measure this. And keep the same 3-cross lacing pattern both disc and non-disc side. K.I.S.S 🙂
You can make a dish tool from card two zip ties and and old spoke - cost 50p
rootes - how? I'm intrigued
nice. talk about starting a job and not understanding how to do it! i know us chaps dont like reading instructions but sometimes it can save time and stress.
good luck and hope the wheel gets built right dude.
You can make a wheel dishing guage by fixing a biro / bit of wood, etc to your forks / chain or seat stays with a rubber band. Pop wheel in bike (which is upside down) true, pop wheel out & turn round to check if the rim is central.
I don't mind spending a few quid on the right tools, I got the park tools portable dish tool for something like £18, ever since I actually used a proper headset press (cost £30) I've realised proper tools make jobs a hell of a lot easier (imo obviously)
Haven't started building yet, just reading up at the mo and making sure I understand what I need to do.
Anyone seen anywhere cheap for crest rims?
+1 for Roger Musson's Book.
[b]Can't really recommend it enough.
[/b]
In fact, I think it's so good that I have provided a link:
http://www.wheelpro.co.uk/wheelbuilding/book.php
Stan.
Get the book!
You should lace to suit the brake forces like you do with the rear drive side... Ie not a different pattern but just[b] put trailing and leading spoke on the right side of the hub flange [/b]But i reckon in makes bugger all difference if the wheel is well built
Agreed - AKA it's BS.
rootes - how? I'm intrigued
it is in roger musson book, though I modified it, my mod was due to be in the next edition of the book... not sure it is out.
Agreed - AKA it's BS.
yep
Err, after initial lacing and light tensioning I just bung it in the dropouts and do everything by eye. Probably not the the best tho.
[b]Def buy[/b] Rogers book, loads of tips and tricks, inc dimensions for this card dish tool.. and for £9 is a bargain
in the book it tells you to use a scapel or similar to measure upto the hub lock nuts, but i kept dropping it and youose the setting..
so i made this simple mod using an old spoke and two zip ties:
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The zip ties are tight enough to hold the spoke in place, but you can still move it in or out with you finger whilst using the gauge.
The hooked end of the spoke is of use as it allows you to get to the hub locknut without removing the QR...
Hopefully this mod will make it into the next edition of the book or into the online guides Roger is doing as he thought it was a simple and cheap improvement.
I've a wheelbuilding stand and dishing tool you can borrow, ping me an e-mail if/when you need it.
