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So, was feeling rather pleased with myself having done my first tubeless conversion with almost no issues at all. Fitted the wheel back onto the bike to discover that apparently running without tubes changes the shape of the tyre a little so my 'gnats tadger' clearance that I had previously to the top of the front mech is now non existent. Some careful fiddling with the mech limit screws has enabled me to get the wheel spinning and, if I really try, I can make out a bit of daylight between the mech and the tyre.
I am thinking that this might not be ideal if I come across either some mud or even corner a bit vigorously.
As far as I can tell, my options are either:
- Different Tyres - don't want to do this. I really want the volume from these if I can get away with it.
- 1 x 10 Conversion - don't think I am trendy enough for this. Call me old fashioned but I like having a good range of gears to play with.
- Offset the dish of the wheel by 2mm or so.
I have plenty of clearance between the tyre and the frame so am thinking of going down the offset wheel dish route. Is there anything I need to consider before doing this? Will it ruin my bike? How do I actually go about doing this? I assume that I just have to go round all the spokes on one side tightening them by a 1/4 turn and loosen them by a 1/4 turn on the other side - keep going till enough offset is achieved. Is it that simple?
Any other suggestions welcome.
Cheers.
Front mech with a shorter cage?
It's not the cage thats the issue - its where the cable attaches. Is a Tiagra 4700 (my Croix de Fer).
This isn't the exact same mech but has the same cable attachment.
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Road, CX or monster cross?
i.e. what size tyre?
The smaller the tyre, the more noticeable having the front and rear wheels misaligned will be. Something like a 40-45 won't even hurt as the tread could be a couple of mm off anyway, and you'll only be running low pressures, so the tyre will be moving around. Plus the frame is *unlikely* to be perfectly straight.
A 25 or 28 at 5-6 bar a 2-3 mm offset might make it feel funny. Especially when cornering.
Depending on how sensitive you are to these things of course.
Team mate rode a visibly bent frame for a couple of weeks before the mechanic failed to get the back wheel out. The frame spacing was about 140 (instead of 126) once he'd pinged the wheel out. It'd been smacked off a concrete post during a crash. Team mate hadn't actually noticed.
A couple of mm out of alignment pisses me off. But it takes bloody ages to find whats causing the annoyance. Frame, wheel, bent saddle, misaligned bars, all give the same or very similar feeling. I reckon if i could get past the first 100 km without getting pissed off, i'd probably just chalk it up to a "feature" of the frame and leave it.
Is a Croix De Fer so I guess most like a heavy CX (not going to call it a gravel bike...)? Tyres I am trying to get to fit are 40mm WTB Nanos. Sounds like an offset maybe a go'er...
Could it just be that you need more tension in your spokes all round rather than artificially dishing them? IANAE (although have built a few wheels now, mostly tubeless) but tubeless will/may lessen tension more than tubed tyres and that the NDS will suffer more making it move over one side more than the other. If you're getting it fouling your mech that suggests that your NDS needs more tension, or least lessened less relative to the DS, so to speak, from the tubeless effect? Increase tension all round and surely the effect will be less?
Ugo off BR blogged about it: https://whosatthewheel.com/2015/04/26/road-tubeless-and-spoke-tension/
I have dished a rear wheel over 5mm and not noticed the diff, but that was with a 2.2" tyre. I guess the effect might be more noticeable with a narrower tyre though.
I am running the 40mm nano's (tubeless too) in my croix de fer. I needed to file down the head of the bolt that holds the cable onto front mech. Doesn't take much to clear but plenty of metal there to remove. Chamfer it slightly to match the angle of the tread on the nano's.
Also needed to dremel a hole in my full guards.
No need to dish wheel over.
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What frame size have you got? Mines a medium. Did think about taking the dremel to it but thought a slight dishing might be the better option. Did have to slice a bit out of my guards too but am now into summer mode so those have come off.
56" frame which I think is large.
I would not bother dishing to be honest, my original wheels were off centre by about 2mm and I could notice the tracking was off (could not hold the bike straight no handed). Plus the nano's are pretty tight between the stays and on hard cornering / off road berms there is enough flex to make them buzz the stays slightly (I use self adhesive metal tape to protect them).
Worth checking limit screw again.... I dropped the cable out and set the low limit without cable attached (this way you are not fighting cable tension).
I wonder if our frames are different in that case. What year is your? Mine is a 2016. I have at least 10mm of clearance between the tyre and the frame, maybe more. Will have another look at the dremel/adjustment possibilities. Could always just trim the side knows off the tyre and not turn right...
Yeah possibly... Mine is 2015. I believe the clearance was increased from 2014 (which as really tight with 35mm tyres).
As far as I am aware the 2015 and 2016 frames are similar geo.
Just measured mine and I have around 8mm clearance between tyre and stays at narrowest point.
Even with this amount of clearance, there is enough frame / wheel flex to rub the stays when pushing hard. In fact the rub is usually towards the NDS as the frame twists in direction of chain load (I run a 38t small ring so more of a stomper than a spinner)
It's the edge of the knobs on the nano's that catch the mech. Not familiar with the tiagra but assume it has some kind of trim function. I managed to get around 1mm clearance by keeping a tiny bit of tension on the mech and fine tuning with the trim so mech didn't drop all the way back on the limit. Bit of a fiddle but worked and I could trim out the rub by a single click on LH shifter.