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Hiya,
I took my wheel into my lbs so as to get the right spokes, and was expecting to just collect the old wheel, new rim and spokes. Instead the mechanic had done me a favour and laced the wheel for me, leaving me just to tension it. However, a question. The lbs mechanic has been flash and rotated the hub into the 'show-off' position where the Hope logo is now visible through the valve hole. this is great...except it now means the pokes aren't laced as they were in the old wheel, with spokes pulling in a different direction at the hub flanges in the new wheel. I always thought doing this when re-lacing a wheel is a no-no.
So, do I unlace the wheel and start again, or do I just ignore it and tension away?
Cheers
Should be fine IME.
they were in the old wheel, with spokes pulling in a different direction at the hub flanges in the new wheel. I always thought doing this when re-lacing a wheel is a no-no.
There's no structural reason why the spokes shouldn't go wherever he's put them. However, if it was me, I'd want the new spokes to match the witness marks where the old spokes sat for purely aesthetic reasons. ๐
Personally I'd relace it.
cheers guys
What all said or PP if you are a tart...that said who did not line up the valves and logos? It is a simple and basic wheel building skill
it might be, but Aaron of Bike in Bristol biult that wheel for me back in...errr....errr....about 2003 IIRC. it was only a 717 rim (although 36 spoke) and stood up to 8 foot drops and over 20 000 miles and never needed truing until an accident with another rider left her drop bars wedged through my seat stays and 4 super baggy spokes. I got it true again but only with absurd tension at 3 or 4 spokes...I only expected it to last a few weeks, but it did another 2 years before pulling a spoke eyelet clean out the rim. IMHO Aaron builds truly awesome strong and true wheels, so I've never been overly fussed that he didn't line the logo up