I know the answer is probably buy the maxle
Can the hub (hope pro 2) be converted to run one of the DT Swiss or Superstar axles?
Cheers
Yes, You can just drill them out or I think they may even make end caps for 9mm QR's.
I think this is what you need? I came across them when looking if I could do XC hubs.
http://www.jejamescycles.co.uk/hope-pro-2-item170909.html#info
Ah cheers and then just a 9mm thru axle from superstar right?
Is that all? Seems too simple.
If you look on this page, pretty sure it's the HUB443 you need:
http://www.hopetech.com/page.aspx?itemID=SPG280
Which according to the description on this site is the conversion to take DT Swiss RWS 9mm skewer (or superstar jobbie), so the first link maybe wrong.
http://www.ukbikestore.co.uk/product/176/hub443/hope-pro-2-front-9mm-thru-bolt-conversion-kit.html
yes, did it to my rebas, makes a noticeable difference. adds a little bit of weight too though.
i used the superstar one as is it a load cheaper than a dt one
Cheers guys I'll go order both.
Thanks alot
Can someone explain this upgrade works to improve (torsional) stiffness. (I'm really dumb at mechanical things sorry)?
I can see that you can squeeze the nut tighter against the fork jaws with a screw/track-nut rather than a QR lever and skewer which seems helpful. But the interface between the axle and fork jaws is unchanged. Is it something to do with a solid axle bending a tiny bit less bendy than a hollow axle - does solid really make much difference given that a hollow tube is very stiff anyway?
Lose some weight 😉
buzz-lightyear - Member
Can someone explain this upgrade works to improve (torsional) stiffness. (I'm really dumb at mechanical things sorry)?I can see that you can squeeze the nut tighter against the fork jaws with a screw/track-nut rather than a QR lever and skewer which seems helpful. But the interface between the axle and fork jaws is unchanged. Is it something to do with a solid axle bending a tiny bit less bendy than a hollow axle - does solid really make much difference given that a hollow tube is very stiff anyway?
The clamping force is higher and the elasticity of the skewer is lower.
The clamping force is higher and the elasticity of the skewer is lower.
Que?
I have a DT swiss and the superstar one. The DT one is noticeably 'stiffer' when riding
Instead of buying the 9mm adapters, I have a set of 15mm ones, coudl I just not get some 15mm tube with an ID of 9mm and slip that in place over the axle?
Or am I just over complicating things?
How's that going interesting 15mm conversion going to fit into your QR fork lowers?
What's the weight difference between the DT Swiss and Superstar versions?
Matt - good point, never thought of that 😳
Paceman, the difference is quality.
Aren't the DT ones renowned for snapping?
I'm going to go with a DT 9mm RWS Axle I think.
Aren't the DT ones renowned for snapping?
The early ones had a plastic ratchet that just wasn't up to the job, that's meant to have been sorted on later ones. The DT ones are lighter than the superstar ones, but you would have to be pretty weight obsessed to justify the cost differential between them.
is it really that much of a problem? never felt the need myself, normal QR has worked well enough for me over the last *cough* years 😀
It's definitely not a problem for me, I just fancy trying some out to see if it makes a difference.
If you get the dt rws skewer make sure it looks likes this:
[url= http://www.dtswiss.com/Products/Components/RWS/RWS-thru-bolt.aspx ]http://www.dtswiss.com/Products/Components/RWS/RWS-thru-bolt.aspx[/url]
The others have plastic handles which in my experience last for 5 minutes. I'm using the superstar ones for now, as I didn't get on with the plastic levers. The superstar ones are noticeably heavier (the dt swiss ones are very light) but they feel absolutely solid in the hand, they come with an OE QR lever which is why they're much cheaper in comparison. To be honest I can't tell much difference between the dt swiss ones and the superstar but maybe that's because I only got to use the dt ones for a couple of rides before the plastic burred.
EDIT: Don't buy this version from crc:
[url= http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=21670&utm_source=Google&utm_medium=Shopping&utm_name=UnitedKingdom ]http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=21670&utm_source=Google&utm_medium=Shopping&utm_name=UnitedKingdom[/url]
Got an unused DT RWS 9mm Skewer for next to nothing off a riding buddy, it's the older version but worth a punt I think, just need some Hope Pro 3 9mm convertors now.
i have a superstar one on the front and it works well with my floats, i found a big improvementover regular qr on rock gardens and awkward landings
what did you notice before and after - intrigued. Or is it down to perception - i have bought ergo its better?
I am not sure on an awkward landing that you are thing "ooooh the torsional stiffness is a real improvement here", more like "**** me this is gonna hurt!"
maybe its all in my head they just feel stiffer when im riding hard, or if i land at an angle
If it feels better in your head then you'll ride better that's for sure. Sometimes a percieved improvement in your bike is enough to give you the confidence you need.
It's the older DT Swiss one I have - as long as you keep it greased and clean the plastic covering on the lever is fine (I think it's metal underneath ?). Can you tell the difference ? yes - on slow rocky descents I can, so it was a worthwhile upgrade to 140mm QR forks. Have not bothered changing on my 100mm Reba's on the hardtail as I don't think I would notice on that
toys19 - Member
[i]The clamping force is higher and the elasticity of the skewer is lower.[/i]
Que?
The force exerted on the dropout is higher because the skewer is tightened on a thread than the cam of a normal QR. Because the skewer is less elastic when there are forces acting on the fork which make the dropouts want to move independently of one another the skewer stretches less and allows them to move less.
cruzheckler - Member
what did you notice before and after - intrigued. Or is it down to perception - i have bought ergo its better?I am not sure on an awkward landing that you are thing "ooooh the torsional stiffness is a real improvement here", more like "**** me this is gonna hurt!"
IMO the advantage is rather in general steering precision rather than reaction to an awkward landing.
Can you do this with XT QR hubs which I have on both my bikes?
Can you do this with XT QR hubs which I have on both my bikes?
If the hubs can be converted to 9mm bolt thru.
Can you do this with XT QR hubs which I have on both my bikes?
No. Because of the cup and cone bearing design they are axle size specific.
I have some 9mm ProII adaptors if anyone needs them 😀
Andy, how much do you want for them?
Nath yhm
EDIT: These are Pro2s, Paceman needs Pro3s so if anyone else needs them please pm me
Front adapters are the same for Pro2 and Pro3
I think the [i]best[/i] way is to swap your lowers for 15 or 20mm thru axle versions 😉
Front adapters are the same for Pro2 and Pro3
Are you certain, they're different part numbers on the Hope website?
My brother did the Hope/Superstar conversion and feels its improved
the steering/stiffness of his Float 140's.
Are you certain, they're different part numbers on the Hope website?
The adapters in my Pro2 hubs were exactly the same as my Pro3 AM4 ones. I phoned Hope and they confirmed that the hub adapters were the same for the front.
According to this thread the Pro3 XC3/6 hub requires the Pro3 adapters whereas the Pro3 AM4 hub requires Pro2 ones.
http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/hope-pro-3-question
I need the Hope Pro 3 XC6 Convertors unfortunately, but thanks for the advice.
Can you do this with XT QR hubs which I have on both my bikes?
No. Because of the cup and cone bearing design they are axle size specific.
and also Shimano QR work really well with decent clamping
and also Shimano QR work really well with decent clamping
...but isn't the point to increase stiffness? 😉