What tubeless kit, and advice for setup?

Used tyres may work, but odds on it will be a PITA as they could already have holes/slits in them - and are they actually tubeless-ready tyres?

All you need is rim tape (I actually use electrical tape) that fully fits the inner of the rim, tubeless valves and sealant - an air canister type pump is also useful.

Think stans still do a kit for a first timer?

Sealant, tape, valves?

Lots of other brands do something better, but stans seems to do everything well enough.

Make sure your rims are dent free, any deformation in the rim makes it harder (but not impossible ; ) to seat a bead. A compressor or blaster does make stubborn tyres easier as does soapy water

Some sort of air chamber makes this much much easier.  You can get a pump with it built in but something like the Schwalbe Tyre Booster also works well.  

Some tape that’s 2mm wider than the internal width of your rim, pick a make that does one in a suitable size and apply as per one of the many videos on YouTube. Avoid MucOff as it peels off and is generally shite. Stan’s/Schwalbe/DT Swiss should do you. Stan’s sealant for most tyres unless very porous sidewalls like Specialized Mondo or Rene Herse, in which case some Orange or OKO or Silca. 

Tesa tape 4289 is (apparently) the same stuff as Stans, but a lot cheaper. Big rolls on eBay in width of your choice.

I still use an Airshot tubeless inflator that is filled via a track pump. Before that I ghetto'd a tubeless inflator out of a 2L plastic coke bottle...

You also need some Meths to clean the rims properly before taping. Keep the rim tape tight when adding it. Use a round skewer to make the hole for the valve. Borrow a compressor or airshot to make it easier.

So nobody's asked the most important question, what rims do you have, are they tubeless or not, it can make a really big difference. Most modern rims are designed for tubeless and so they mostly are dead easy but there's always exceptions. Basically don't listen to any advice on teh actual taping and valving unless you know it's for <your> wheels not some other dude's.

Posted by: Northwind

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So nobody's asked the most important question, what rims do you have, are they tubeless or not, it can make a really big difference. Most modern rims are designed for tubeless and so they mostly are dead easy but there's always exceptions. Basically don't listen to any advice on teh actual taping and valving unless you know it's for <your> wheels not some other dude's.

Tyres are Schwalbe TLE and the rims are WTB i30 TCS 2.0. looking at the spec sheet it says they're already taped. Haven't actually had the tyres off yet to check but I guess if they are then all I need is valves and sealant now, and probably a booster pump of some sort.

Also make sure you've got a presta core tool and some sort of injector that fits the valve to squirt sealant in - far less faff than wrangling one bead of the tyre loose to pour sealant in then trying to reseat it. Note that some sealants like Stans Race don't like being squirted in through the valve.

Do it in the house with the rims and tape at room temperature rather than in a freezing garage where the tape won't stick.

I like my high flow Reserve valves. Everything else I've got has clogged or just doesn't let the air in fast enough to seat a tyre.

These will make tubeless setup easier 

https://www.merlincycles.com/beto-cja-001s-tubeless-air-tank-inflator-98943.html

https://www.merlincycles.com/stans-tyre-sealant-injector-312932.html

I'd you have a reasonable track pump then you might not need a booster tank thing. When it comes to tyre inflation, removing the valve core and spraying the tyre beads with soapy water are the key things to do. Then you need to pump quickly, if you can see the tyre holding just a little bit of air then keep pumping quickly and you should eventually get enough air in the tyre to seat the beads.

For sealant injection - something like xx https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/384673087025?var=652860797092.  Plus large syringe (needles can be cut shorter if careful)  full kits like this on eBay 

fairly liquid rubbed around beads at inflation time

i (after hassles) now always put a small bead of sanitary type silicone around the valve to rim seal area xx https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/156509658252?_ul=GB&rb_itemId=156509658252&rb_pgeo=GB&var=457673345599&ff=11&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5339059258&toolid=10044&customid=EAIaIQobChMI_OKf2IeJjAMVFpJQBh1R_RB6EAQYAyABEgKiM_D_BwE&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADA7Q_LE0pBc7kpU9wrnbZTfC4pse&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_OKf2IeJjAMVFpJQBh1R_RB6EAQYAyABEgKiM_D_BwE

most repair kits will do but get a mix of worm sizes (small, medium, large sort of tiny/1mm, 3.5, 6mm ish

if you get a puncture that is a right fight to seal or is very large I’d suggest refixing at home - break bead near puncture and add an internal wired mushroom patch as I’ve had worms blow out, esp after a bit of wear etc. 

if you can handle a 2 week delivery time 

decent tyre levers as boxfresh tubeless ones can be a pita to seat, this is excellent

https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/bike-tyre-lever/_/R-p-300646

then this has been great and finally replaced my 2L Coke bottle homemade job https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008397398728.html

Never heard of using silicone on the beads, interesting idea though! Tyres can be hard enough to get off without it I reckon but I like it.

Most tyres will go up with a good track pump- something "mountain bike specific" like a joe blow mountain will shift more air faster (roadie or general use pumps are better for high pressure- as a general rule if the pump wants to go up to 100 or higher then it's probably going to be less good for tubeless) but even then there are still occasional bastards. I'm lucky, I have a full size compressor so I have that as a fallback and for really difficult ones like my fatbike tyres, and there's brilliant options like the air charging cylinders or a pump with one built in, but I've not had a mountain bike tyre that wouldn't inflate with the track pump for a long time.

Sealant, personally I like OKO Hi Fibre/Halo Fibretech (same thing), it is imo just better than Stans. But it does have a big drawback, it's not compatible with stans, you can't mix it. And while you can get stans or something compatible in pretty much any bike shop in an emergency, Oko/Halo isn't as common. But other'n that- it seals about as well, it lasts longer and it's much cheaper. It's water based and soluble meaning you can dilute it to taste, or if it's drying up you can add just some water to the tyre to revive it. This does not work if it's totally dry, you can't bring it back to life, you can only thin it as it gets thick so do be aware. But, good stuff. You can get it with other names on, Oko have been making industrial tyre sealants forever.

Valves, ime the best option is something with a fat round rubber base, they work best with the most rims. Some few rims need something more specific but usually just skinny stuff with really pronounced shapes. Why are some square, for a round hole? No idea. Even these cheapies are absolutely fine, just be sure you get some that are long enough for your rims- yours probably will be ok with 44mm I think?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/315175792092?_skw=tubeless+valve+mountain&itmmeta=01JPAJ7BDGJATJ4ACY9W8KFBQ6&hash=item4961f0eddc:g:A1QAAOSwkzpl2GgL&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1eG5Lv0AtqS2fYXEcBJ421a1GB6zJGbXNxf18a%2Fg5u6bVGQ60w%2Bcp4JsRgeTALqvefirvS3eE3GkWFYDMyd1IF7Lf80cPvh%2BsQ2ZowWuyi83hTy%2B%2BbWjoGWUFF2Y%2FjWNiQuNfQ3mJTTGumTKOJ4HgE9UyMspj%2BPcCU01nukddEm%2FaFow63JWROo%2BM8y3C8GA%2FUKqHQ0E2gFKlvzkn0%2FtZJmneEWQ1WIb54S5pxizzTULK%2BIvfk630Ub1G%2FAvVVY8o4%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR_S2ndKyZQ

But I'm using these now, they're a little better and barely more expensive. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/146326906106?_skw=tubeless+valve+mountain+black&var=445170406217&itmmeta=01JPAJ9P2C3J5ZJSDRK2DM3PT3&hash=item2211c364fa:g:irMAAOSwtvtngsBg&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAABAFkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1eWiLQkX3emkSOwFEpuf9t1JERt9eZSfNaHpoMXLUCgy92--%2FHXXTixbpoFfPtqqdcep0JsMFUh%2FIGi2EeEfuNvbwroRO9GKaODbV%2BzOpzgbhOqBcrm%2FnAV2Uf%2By4hBX5v3Z%2FdHrDcGoe3dORlc6otR0BmuBb3xjJANwVFq0yFwaGlue69zLfe0%2FJZYgVO%2BNMSDqKxOphS4Lo65bTbRuaMhI%2BccqMwmoPXTwt4uMgr40rJdx3KY1hCSDDUnC4m%2BgMtQxk5%2B6SMl5nQ59soJOIrm4YCLVfsNhtG79VudnHb1rUfIdLlh%2FvW1s%2FLzFa4Qcls%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR7DhptKyZQ

Posted by: Northwind

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Never heard of using silicone on the beads, interesting idea though! Tyres can be hard enough to get off without it I reckon but I like it.

He said around the valve seat, not the bead! Definitely don't glue the tyres on with silicone. 🤣

I’m using Reserve Fillmore valves on all my wheels now. No clogging with sealant issues when topping up with air now. 

Was thinking I may just go for the Fillmore as they're about the same price as the rest/cheaper than some like Peatys and seem pretty good. Some things I've read on forums make them still seem like they can be a bit of a faff though so not sure whether to just try the cheapies @Northwind recommends first though. Do those work ok with an insert? I'll probably go without to start with but might end up needing it at least on the back wheel for a hardtail.

This probably seems obvious but how do you know how much to tighten the valves? Most guides just say "hand tight" which isn't much help!

Posted by: Matthew Hornby

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Posted by: Northwind

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Never heard of using silicone on the beads, interesting idea though! Tyres can be hard enough to get off without it I reckon but I like it.

He said around the valve seat, not the bead! Definitely don't glue the tyres on with silicone. 🤣

Ohhhhhh. Yes that makes more sense. Though honestly shouldn't be a problem, valve sealing is pretty straightforward.

@tom, the cheapest of the cheap that I linked can struggle with inserts- I ended up cutting out a little hole in the insert to prevent it but that was when you couldn't get an "insert proof" valve. 

The second slightly more expensive ones have holes around the base as well as at the bottom which are designed to work with inserts, though I've never actually tested that. The fillmores look clever but I'm not paying that for a valve, especially when the rubber bit has a limited life.

Tightness- should just need to be finger tight, just enough to squidge the rubber into the hole. Sometimes a little bit more than finger tight helps but you can just trial and error it. One really important thing is that if you get a flat trailside and want to fit a tube, you need to be able to undo the valve- I carry a tiny set of pliars after getting absolutely furious over this once, some valves have clever little tools and rings to fit which I like too. TBH no matter what you do once a valve's been in there for a few years it can be a battle anyway (this is sort of funny, this was never a problem back in the day because you basically never got to go that long without a flat)

Great, thanks 🙂

Another probably stupid question - over the summer I'll sometimes take my bike to work to go riding afterwards, meaning it's left in a hot car with no shade all day. Fine with tubes but any issues doing this with tubeless & sealant? A quick Google shows some people have come back to their car covered in sealant with an exploded tyre, but they all seem to be from America where I guess it gets hotter than the average UK summer day.

Let some air out and then pump up just before you ride after leaving in the car?

Never had an issue with that, I pretty much always move bikes in teh car and leave one in it pretty much full time. I mean, I'm in Scotland so it never gets <that> hot. It can't just be an air pressure thing, the difference in air pressure from temperature changes is nothing like enough to pop a tyre, 20 to 40 degrees is only like 2psi I think? Maybe combined with softening of tyres but I just can't see it.

In all my riding I've had two beads completely snap and fail and that's the only thing that's ever caused the classic tubeless "explosion", once a tyre's on it's just incredibly hard to get it off that way because the higher the pressure the more tightly it fits onto the bead. Having it go flat and fall off the bead and leak is more common but still pretty rare and no particular reason for that to happen with heat.

Tyres are Schwalbe TLE and the rims are WTB i30 TCS 2.0.

I converted an i30 to tubeless yesterday, with a minion dhr.  Pretty easy;

One wrap of 25mm gorilla tape,

home made valve cut from an old tube,

used an airshot and and soapy water to seat

Seems to holding OK so far...

A quick Google shows some people have come back to their car covered in sealant with an exploded tyre, but they all seem to be from America where I guess it gets hotter than the average UK summer day.

You've answered your own question, they're "Americans" 🙂

Never had an issue, but remember with tubeless you're running far lower pressures (probably 15-25psi for MTB, 30-40psi for gravel and 50-60psi for road).