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I've not used one before and was just wondering. Super smooth or slightly ridged from the cutting blades?
It's an aluminium frame that appears to have 'issues' around the headtube and seat tube
Thanks.
depends how good the operator is and how sharp the tool is, you could get either of the extremes you have mentioned but essentially it should be super smooth.
Thanks mate.
Yup, that's what I was thinking. The bottom of the headtube is consistently ridged. The top 'smooth' of sorts but it looks lightly scored like they've been at it with some pretty abrasive 'dry' wet and dry, not sharp blades.
The seat tube is a mess. Badly scored where it looks like a seatpost has been forced in and they've had a job to get it out.
There are other problems and this is all on a new frame from a so called high end company in the states.
Not impressed...
Contact them and ask WTF they are doing sending that sort of POS finish?
Yes, depends on technique and how much material is being removed.
Bike shop or a local engineer's workshop is the best bet.
I'd advise some sort of lubricant (a drop of unused engine oil should do), a firmly secured frame, a comfortable body position above the job and a totally square entry into the hole.
Allow the tool to cut.
Don't forget that alu really is soft.
If you have never used a reamer before and are thinking of attempting this yourself don't either return the frame or find an engineering shop to do it for you. It is a specialist job and far to easy to make an a*se of if you don't know what you are doing.
N7What finish do reamers leave?
I'd advise some sort of lubricant (a drop of unused engine oil should do), a firmly secured frame, a comfortable body position above the job and a totally square entry into the hole.
😯
*stiffens*
never turn a reamer the wrong way....
when removing from the object being reamed, you should continue the rotation of the reamer in the cutting direction as you withdraw it - never reverse it.
lubrication should be based on the material being reamed... some metals do not need any (cats iron) ... in general for threading and reaming aluminium then paraffin is suitable, not sure about higher end alloys uses in bikes frames though.
decent shops will have specific size hand reamers and also adjustable reamers for oddities...
but if it is new then speak to the supplier.
Thanks chaps. All very useful. I'm awaiting a response but it's radio silence so far. I've battered them with a load of pictures 'though.
I certainly have no intention of doing it myself as I don't have the tools, experience and more importantly, it's their problem not mine.
It's a framebuilder in the states. That's all I'll say for now...
It would be intensely interesting to know the manufacturer...
It would be unfair to say who, as spookily just after my earlier reply I received a 'phone call from the States offering me a full refund!
They also gave a reasonable explaination as to what was what and why, whilst accepting that only a refund would keep me happy. This includes my import duties and vat. To be resolved tomorrow...
In contrast my Taiwanese built Pipedream 853 frame is an absolute blinder and cost around half the price. Kind of stands my somewhat misguided preconception about outsourced engineering on it's head....