Hi,
I'm sure that this has been asked loads but how do I convert my 3x9 setup to 2x9:
Currently have a SLX 22, 32, 44 and want to go to 22, 36.
What exactly do I need?
I assume I can use my existing front mech but will need shorter bolts, unless I go for a bash where I will need longer ones......
Help!
You seem to have it covered except a chain device. I use a blackspire stinger with bash. You adjust the high/low screws on the mech so you only get two clicks. If using bash, you won't need longer bolts, the bash just replaces the big ring
Yep, remove outer ring and middle, replace with 36t with either short bolts or bash (most come with longer bolts) and then throw in a tension device - as above the black spire stinger works well. If you have no ISCG mounts then behind the BB.
Only thing to check is the frame especially round single pivots (oranges) which don't like a proper sized middle ring.
If you want to try this on the cheap,I've got a spare 36t ring,think it's slx,and a blackspire ring god c4 36t bashguard in good nick,yours for £10 posted.email in profile.
Ian
Used to have this on most of my bikes, bashguard and stinger worked fine for me.
Got a BB mounted stinger, a Blackspire bash and a selection of chainrings to sell if you are looking btw.
try it with 22,32 before splashing out on 36t chainring, some find the extra jump between chainrings a bit of a pain, if you find you run out of gears then you can up it to 36 later on
Can't see why you'd need a tensioner???
Just take a few links out of chain and re-adjust front mech for 2 rings.
Can't see why you'd need a tensioner???
To stop the chain falling off, the Stinger and similar devices are really effective for non-clutch mechs.
Not everyone needs one for sure, but generally if someone knows they need a bash then they'll need chain retention too.
Thanks for clarifying, not sure if I need the chain retention device as surely it's similar to having a triple?
A couple more questions.
I'd assumed that I needed a bash to tidy things up?
Will the crank have to come off to fit the middle ring?
Will a jump from 32 to 36 cause any issues when shifting between chainrings?
Thejesmonddingo, i may take you up on the ring.
Thanks
To stop the chain falling off, the Stinger and similar devices are really effective for non-clutch mechs.
How does removing the big ring make the chain fall off?
I'd assumed that I needed a bash to tidy things up?
Don't need one but I think it looks nicer
Will the crank have to come off to fit the middle ring?
Not normally, if you can get to the bolts then the ring should come off over the cranks pedals. Obviously you'll need three hands to refit (or that might be just my oafishness...)
Will a jump from 32 to 36 cause any issues when shifting between chainrings?
Yes, as it's got more chainring to throw the chain up and over onto. In practice it's not really an issue unless you are really picky.
I did the exact conversion you are considering.
Going to a 36T ring does make the shift a little clunkier with a standard triple mech. You can fiddle around with the mech position and adjustment to make it smoother though. When I replaced my triple mech eventually I got a double specific SLX front mech, it has a different swinging arc (?) that is more suitable for the jump between 22 and 36 tooth rings.
Fitted a C4 ring god (as offered above) too, it comes with longer bolts. The 44T ring comes off and the ring god goes on, simple as that, no crank removal necessary. Also fitted a stinger that worked very well, although as mentioned above not absolutely necessary.
I'd take up thejesmonds offer, bargain way of trying it out
How does removing the big ring make the chain fall off?
Who said it did FFS?
If you need a bash ring then you're likely to be riding reasonably gnarly terrain, and if you shred said gnar - your chain is likely to fall off at some point without a retention device.
Maybe the OP doesn't need a bash though?
can't see why you'd need a tensioner???Just take a few links out of chain and re-adjust front mech for 2 rings.
Spot on. Does the chain fall off now when used as 3x9? so why would it fall off with 2x9?
Why add extra weight, cost and resistance and complicate things? The front Mech once the H/L settings have been changed will do the same job.
All you are changing is the gear ratio's and replacing the top chainring for a bash guard.
Thanks for all the advice above, I'm going to go with Thejesmonddingo's offer above and give it a go.
Assuming the front shifting is a bit ropey (will try it first) is this the correct mech for a 2011 camber that has 'Front Derailleur:
Shimano FD-M660 SLX, E-type for DMD, top swing, bottom pull' according to the spec
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-slx-m665-top-swing-2x9-front-mech/rp-prod28028
Thanks,
I'm running 2x9 on my mega.
I just took the big ring off the front of a standard deore chainset, and used some shorter bolts.
I'm using a 3x shifter, but set the limit screws on the front 3x mech so it won't extend beyond the middle position.
I'm using a medium cage rear mech, and I've yet to have the chain skip off outwards.