Forum menu
So further to my other threads I’m attempting to build my own wheels on the cheap. Looking at £68 a wheel with wtb sti25 rims, black double butted spokes and then an XT rear hub and superstar electro front hub.
The back wheel seems to have gone ok - it’s straight laterally and vertically and dished ok. Tension is tighter on the drive side than the non driveside and I’ve stressed and retrued the wheel. Now setup tubeless and on the bike ready to test.
The front wheel isn’t going so well. Lacing itnup was ok and I did a light tension just to hide he threads in the spokes within the nipples. However this wasn’t enough for all the nipples to be pulled down inside the rim so I wound a bit more tension on some of the spokes. Once on the truing stand I have not only some lateral wobble but quite a bad vertical wobble (not worrying too much about dish here).
I‘ve had a go at straightening it out (vertical) but it’s not brilliant still. The wheel is now really tight.
Am I best to loosen everything right off again and start from scratch to cure the vertical wobble out first, then move back on to lateral?
yeah I'd slack off and start again, from how you've written it I'd say you went wrong adding more tension on just some of the spokes, I always start off methodically doing the same turns on all spokes and work on individual tensions to true once the bulk of the overall tensioning is done. I used roger musson's book as a guide.
Thanks, I’ll loosen it all off today and see what occurs. I was trying to build it without buying the Roger Musson book and using the Sheldon Brown guide.
If it is out of round then just start again. Would won't be able to pull it back and just risk over tightening some spokes trying to get the high spot out.
Ok, when I get a moment I’ll slacken the whole lot off and start again. Am I best getting it round vertically before I work on lateral truing? I’ll leave dishing until last probably. Will aim to have it mostly in the middle of the stand but then try it in the bike forks to check / adjust dishing.
how much is out of true? Across a couple of spokes, or just one? vertical truing should only really be adjusted by tightening really. and you can use larger turns to pull the rim down, so, think 1/2 and full turns rather than 1/4 turns (as for horizontal truing)
Do a quick measure of spoke head to thread with a tape measure? If you were using the spoke thread as your guide did you possibly have one wrong one in there? Spoke thread is normally an ok measure so it does sound like something else may have made you go wrong
There’s every chance I’m just a complete spoon to be honest! Could have been impatient which probably isn’t a good thing with wheel building.
I think slackening off all the spokes to the point they’re just covering the threads and set in the truing stand and see what’s what. Most of the wheel was round, but with a low point rather than a troublesome high point. So I think something may have been tightened more than another point early on in the tensioning process.
I'd loosen spokes at the low points, tighten at the high. No need to loosen them all.
Could be a bad join.
Loosened all of hem and he rim definitely has a low point. Need to pop back in to the garage in a mins me check where he join is. No tension on the low point at th moment so think I’ll gradually tighten trhenrestnof the wheel leaving that bit loose and see if that brings it more into line. If hat doesn’t work I may have to admit defeat and drop it into the lbs in the week and take the stick for thinking I could build my own wheel!
It's the join then often there isn't much you can do (except return the rim)
a great many rims are a little out of round at the join. It's up to you whether how much that is is acceptable. Trying to make the rim rounder or straighter than it is will result in uneven tensions, and a less-good wheel overall than one with a slight wobble that's only perceptible in the truing stand.
Bizarrely the join section seems fine. It’s further round the rim it’s got a low point (nearer the hub than the rest of the rim).
I loosened the lot off and worked on the vertical truing first and got it a lot better. Then worked on lateral and pretty much got there. Then tweaked thre dish and stressed the wheel by standing on the spokes a bit. Then retrued it and decided to go for it and tubeless tape it.
Just remembered I haven’t rechecked thendish in the forks. Oops. Better check that before mounting up the tyre!
Dish luckily ok and the wheel is now setup tubeless and on the bike. Just need to completely reset my disc brakes as the hub spacing is slightly different. The rotor also slightly catches the end of the caliper bracket mount screws- need to shorten them a bit tomorrow.
Good work Joe! Nothing like building your first set of wheels!
Well, nothing like it, assuming they don’t collapse on me where I’ve done it wrong 😞
The fear of the new builder. Been there :). Sure they will be fine. Set of mine survived BPW so can't be that wrong.
I built my 1sr shells in 2010 and I'm still not dead!
Top work, read this with envy.
Haven’t had time to test it yet - hoping I’ll get out on the local trails on Wednesday night to see how they go. May have a chance for a quick lap of Cwmcarn on Friday but don’t know if I dare it on my new wheels! Would prefer to take the fs but will need to leave the bike with the car for an hour or so - at least with the hardtail it should fit in the car!
Anyone thinking about building a wheel should just have a go. I used the free Sheldon Brown guide and picked up a truing stand cheap from FB classifieds. Cycle basket in Wales wee helpful working out spoke lengths and getting spokes delivered to me really quickly.
Each wheel cost £68 as both hubs cost £35 each, rims £12.49 and spokes £21 (which includes £6 delivery).
Xt rear hub / Superstar Electro front hub. I’m more impressed / excited by the Superstar hub - I think I need to buy some cone spanners soon and pack the XT loose bearings with grease to smooth it out a bit.
They look good, and got the logo opposite the valve hole. I always wondered whether it should be shimano or xt opposite the hole though, and settled on xt like yourself.
I would check tension with tyres mounted. I built some wheels using stans rims and the tension dropped by loads with the tyres mounted, so much so the rear nds went pretty slack.
Will do. Will try and pop out to the garage tonight for a look. I haven’t borrowed the tension meter yet so it’s checking there is some tension by hand so far - nothing scientific!
First ride on these tonight and they’re still round and true. No big drop offs on the trails in Bristol I ride (Ashton Court and Leigh Woods), just quite a few Of about a foot high. Did all of those with no drama, and an off piste trail called Rocky Horror. The rims survived that too 😃




