Finally gave in and did mine this weekend. Rims are WTB with a very deep spoke well and standard non UST tyres.
Initially tried packing the channel with draught excluder rubber strips and then a couple of layers of TESA tape.
The Tesa tape is no good if you need it to deform - it's just to rigid and putting a tight tyre on it will cause it to lift if it isn't solidly supported.
Trid again with cloth duct tape, a narrow run in the well and then two runs overlapping and getting right into edges of rim. Went up with my ghetto inflator no problem - bit of leakage around valve but soon sealed up.
Added a few rubber shavings into my sealant by taking a surform to my old rubber mallet 🙂
For tape, I know Gorilla tape isn't universally liked but twice at BPW (mostly because I'm a riding klutz) I needed the tape replaced on a 35mm rim. The workshop have various width gorilla tape, the widest of which is just wide enough for those rims. Been absolutely fine since...
I also love/hate watching expensive stans' fluid exit the rim void as it's blown out with an airline 😉
Talking of which, being a bit of a serial tyre changer at the moment - between chubby and standard - I finally bought a compressor. Budget set at £100, spent £99.95 including delivery and a set of air tools including a decent looking gauged inflater attachment.
Now I have that, going to convert all my rims to Gorilla tape. Mainly so have an excuse to play with the airline 🙂
Absolutely useless, it just doesn't workIt so does .
Probably does with some tyre/rim combinations but whenever I've tried the tyre gets too tight on the rim 3/4 of the way round, and no chance of moving the tyre lever without unbeading somewhere else.
I've just had the craziest amount of noise coming from my back wheel after changing it to tubeless last night- has anyone else had this? Lots of graunching, clanging, pinging and clanking. It was surprisingly noisy, I stopped several times to check the spokes and rode pretty gingerly to be honest. Went on for about half an hour and now seems to have stopped. Weird!
I also have an Alfine hub so I'm thinking maybe it's that..
Probably does with some tyre/rim combinations
I think this is so true. I tried to cut my tubeless teeth with nobby nics on stans crests. Did everything right; stans valves, tape, fluid. But just could not get the tyres on! Then I tried some non-tubeless continentals and these were OK and finally some some CX Pro cyclocross tyres with a wire bead and had no trouble.
I've found that proper road tubeless tyres on Ksyriums have been a dream. mounted with thumbs or a single lever, inflated with a track pump, ride like tubs! I've also found I'm rubbish at using tape and evern worse at doing up the valves tight enough to seal. Now I only use the conical cross section valves - just used some 80 mm Silca ones on my aero wheels.
Getting there, slowly. But the ride of those G-ONES is just so good that it makes up for any hassle. If the Corsa Speeds don't save me 20 Watts I'd be surprised 8)
I've used two pairs of pliers to grip either side of the sidewall and pulled the beads out closer to the bead hook - hope this makes sense . . Meticulously repeat around the whole wheel until tyre is closer to being seated . . Compressor or ghetto inflator to finish - No point in sweating over a track pump - it generally works easily or not at all IME ..
Fat bike I know - but the method remains, especially if using baggy tyre/rims.
[url= http://www.mtb-uk.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=373 ]Tubeless on baggy rims[/url]
Is it really this easy?
I've found on non-UST rims with a bit of a well in the middle that Velox rim tape is pretty good if you need to build up the height significantly.
Has anyone tried the lighter fluid inflation method to get tubeless up?
Finally admitted defeat trying to get Hutchinson CX tubeless tyres on Haven 29er UST wheels. After trying everything in my arsenal of tubelessness I have reached the conclusion that the bead on the tyre is just too tight to allow all of the tyre to move from the well and seat fully. This was a big problem with some of Hutchinson's early tubeless CX tyres which resulted in snapped beads and exploding tyres... A problem I thought they had sorted.
That's 4 hours I'll never get back.
Another option is to remove the valve and use a rim-strip to pack it out. Adding more and more weight though :(.
ive tried that too...the caffelatex kit contained rim strips which i fitted but they didnt work very well. i might have another crack with the strips but i'll had a couple of layers of tape first but i'm reluctant to add too much tape to the rims as they are heavy enough as they are
Probably does with some tyre/rim combinations
i think this is true in my case
the rims that did go tubeless were dt swiss rims running a tubeless muddy mary up front and a non tubeless hans dampf at the rear....there was some initial seepage through the sidewalls of the rear but that stopped after a while. i haven't used these wheels for about 12 months and theyre still holding the air in them.
the atomlab dhr rims did briefly work using some old panaracer fire fr tyres before the rear one blew off...they're currently sunning a magic mary up front and a hans dampf at the rear...both as non tubeless but seeing as it worked on the other wheels i'm pretty sure they would work on these wheels but the tyre beads just wont pop onto the rim and when they do, air leaks through the rim itself no matter how much they've been taped
Is it really this easy?
I haven't got the 20 mins spare right now unforts- maybe later- but what is it?
Has anybody ever sealed a rim with gaffer tape or electrical tape? I have some of that lying around and it'll save me buying some gorilla tape...
Tried and failed. Probably needed more wraps than I gave it. Gorilla tape is basically thin duct tape isn't it?electrical tape
The Silca tubeless tape I've just used is 1) expensive and 2) very thin 3) works fine on road wheels#. Claims extra binding to carbon rims; but I have alloy.
#I still prefer the Ksyrium option though!
I've done Tubeless twice now.
1st time was geax AKA tubeless tyres on 5/6 year old mavic EN521 rims. Cleaned rims, Gorilla taped, tyres on with a slather of soapy water, pumped up with a Joe Blow sport track pump, then undid a bit of tyre and whacked in stans sealant. worked a treat and lasted a yearish.
2nd time, (2 weeks ago), new Spesh 2 bliss tyres on new Mavic UST rims and mavic UST valve.
Fitted rim strip and valve, put tyres on, pump up with track pump above, nothing happened.
Looked at that video (in ramseys post) above and tried to seat tyres, couldn't make it happen. Pulled side walls up with my hands to get the bead next to the rim hook.
Pumped up with track pump and they went straight up, pop, ping, pop. let air out and lifted a section of tyre bead, put some stans fluid in, re pumped up and did the stans shake.
Been holding air ever since. No soapy water used.
Next is to try a Minion on a DT rim, a Nobby Nic or high roller on a Mavic EN521, and a pair of Rocket Rons on Sun Single track rims.....
I've just bought some Sun Ringlé rims- Inferno 23- but I'm still trying to work out if I can convert them to tubeless. The interwebs has conflicting information! Emailed Sun Ringlé at the start of the week, hopefully they'll get back to me...
From today I shall be a tubeless ninja 🙂
[url= https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2822/33335883702_3572aeffe3_b.jp g" target="_blank">https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2822/33335883702_3572aeffe3_b.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/SMM7Py ]From today I shall be a tubeless ninja![/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/alexleigh/ ]Alex Leigh[/url], on Flickr
Has anybody ever sealed a rim with gaffer tape or electrical tape? I have some of that lying around and it'll save me buying some gorilla tape...
No, i'd try it though. 'Gorilla' is only a brand. 'Gaffer' tape would most likely be too wide but easy to cut down and tough so a good option i would say. Maybe someone has evidence to prove otherwise...
It's from Ali clarksons you tube vlog of his first attempt at tubeless.
He uses a strip of camping mat? foam inside the tyre. Seems to be the magic ingredient as he goes on to do some rad trials style riding with only some air escaping from around the valve on the big hits.
I don't know the guy, but he seems to have the tubeless thing down to a t...enough to convince me to try tubeless
And the trials riding is worth a look:)
It looks like the hardest part was getting the tyre on the rim, but from my personal experience * you've got to spend half an hour with the tyre in your hands gently pushing/ pulling it fore and aft, as though wringing out a wet towel.
*my panaracer rampage, even as a 'folder' was as tough as nails when I first attempted to fit it. You'd have thought I had pneumonia, such was the amount of sweat running off my forehead.
So I just had to sit for half an hour and twist the tyre between my hands.
After that it went on easy-peasy.
Second Corsa Speed went up fine; TWO layers of tape this time, plus a much tightened Silca 80 mm valve. Popped on with the Airshot, added Stans fluid through the valve and then pumped up with a track pump.
Lessons:
1) Two layers of thin tape
2) Tighten the valve, and tighten again
3) Pump the Airshot to 120 PSI not indicated 160 🙁
4) Use Ksyrium wheels when you can 😆
Anyway, off to Hillingdon later this evening to test the tyres, fettle position and callibrate second Powerpod to TT position
No, i'd try it though. 'Gorilla' is only a brand. 'Gaffer' tape would most likely be too wide but easy to cut down and tough so a good option i would say. Maybe someone has evidence to prove otherwise...
even though gorilla is just a brand...i think their product is slightly think making it less porous and the adhesive is stronger than normal gaffer or duct tape
I've just bought some Sun Ringlé rims- Inferno 23
Converted my Sun Ringlé rims Inferno [b]25[/b] to tubeless,3 yrs ago,no issues,used Gorilla tape on the rim.
Does anyone else have to horse their valves up with a pair of pliers to get them to seal?
The last time I got a puncture (gunk had dried up) I had to walk as I couldn't get the valve undone to put in my emergency tube in.
Now I need to carry pliers with me.
Does anyone else have to horse their valves up with a pair of pliers
When installing the valve on the rim,press the rubber side of the valve tight against the rim and hand tighten the screw,should be good then.
I over tightened once,like yourself,i don't like walking.
Merde ballons. I had not thought of that...
So....why does the latex in your chosen flavour of sealant set solid when you have a puncture but not when it is sloshing about in your tyre???
I think I might have had some success ghettoing up a WTB Trail Boss on a WTB Singletrack rim this afternoon using OKO tractor/quad tyre sealant diluted 3:1 with water... fingers crossed... The ghettoed front Vigilante has stayed up for months no hassle at all. We bought a Lidl compressor a few months ago for £70-odd which has made life easier although both the Vigilante and Trail Boss went up using a track pump ok, both 26". I shall be trying to ghetto up a pair of 2.8 Rangers on i41mm rims over the weekend 😀
In other news, has anyone ghettoed CX tyres? I've got some 622x19 rims to try diet-29er once I've nailed the wheels together.