Evening All -
For 2 years ran some Schwalbe RRs or Nobby Nics, not a puncture, even on the TransScotland. Then tore 4 in a row. Switched to Bontragers - nice enough, heavier, slower - also tore - this time across the tread. Thought the Nokian that weighed as much as a small car would do the trick - no- also FUBAR first time out.
Any suggestions? I'm running out of brands to try.
Yours covered in latex, but quite good at using a mini pump and grateful in advance.
Paul
what was the reason for tearing 4 in a row? too low pressures?
i have been running Nobby Nics for most of the year without any problem and find them great in all but the muddiest conditions.
I've found the UST nobbynics very weak too - carcass is really soft rubber & just cuts up with the flints round here
(now on mud-x, thought they'd be better but worrying that you break them too. haven't had any probs yet though - 4 rides or so)
TBH, if these are too weak I'm getting some rock hard cheapos - luckily the riding round here is mostly boggy xc so mega-grip isn't a big deal most of the time & I can keep the decent tyres for trips away
Ive ripped Bonty TLRs across the tread and Conti UST across tread and bead, it happens. Ive been thinking about getting tough non-UST like Schwalbe Double Defense or Snakeskin / Conti protection and using a rimstrip or whatever. Either that or just use heavier UST tyres.
Scruff he right. Move on up to Rubber Queen 2.4. You'll be doing well to rip those bad boys er...girls.
I found the same problem with Maxxis. I ran some Geax Dhea for a year with no problems (well, no problems aside from no grip on wet rocks). Now I have Bonty Big Earl, they seem pretty tough. I even ripped them off the rim with sideways landing but the tyre wasn't damaged
I've found the same with the LUST's but the Maxxis proper UST's I've tried are tough. If you're ripping everything you're using maybe you've got too low a pressure for the terrain? What sort of riding are you doing? I found the bonty big earls TR's are great, you can run them until they're like this:
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I've been trying to do a wee write up on the tyres I'm using with some weights and thoughts. I'll be the first to admit it's not very profesional and is more of a work in progress. Also bear in mind that I ride in rougher terrain than most of the UK, but if anyone still wants a look then they're here:
[url= http://www.basquemtb.com/tyre-choice/ ]Tyre Review Part 1[/url]
and here:
[url= http://www.basquemtb.com/tyre-review-and-tubeless-set-up/ ]Tyre Review Part 2[/url]
Very interesting write-ups Doug, in two minds about whether to fit a supertacky HR UST for riding in the Lakes, but think you may have just put me off!
I've already got too many tyres though, and now you're making me want to try Big Earls and Minions too.
Doug he right Big Earl is good too.
doug i struggled for hours trying to get a maxxis advantage to run tubeless but once i got a seal its held up great ๐
The Big Earl is a great tyre, it's hard to get hold of out with us though.
The HR UST is a LOT of tyre, it needs to be pretty full on to justify it IMO. It works with us but I found that when I came back to Scotland for Christmas it was too slow [b]on the downs[/b] because they just weren't steep enough. I was knackered from pedalling down Golspie for example.
mi@k, that sounds interesting. How did you do it in the end? I've tried with a compressor and everything!
I'd recommend Hutchinsons personally. If you get Maxxis it has to be UST, not LUST. If you get Hutchinsons, again UST, not Light, or any other compromise.
I've stopped using normal compound Bontys for the same reason, they just aren't puncture proof.
Doug - It's true it's not easy. I use washing up liquid on the bead, and make sure its well seated all round.
Attach compressor (I use one that plugs into my car cigarette lighter), make sure that the weight of the wheel and tyre isn't making the bead lift at the bottom, rotate wheel slowly and make sure bead is in contact with rim all the way round, and up she goes.
Maxxis Larsen TT LUST for the (brief) summer and/or well-drained trail centres. Panaracer Trailraker UST for the winter.
Both used with sealant, fit fine on Mavic 819 rims and inflate with a track pump. As far as longevity is concerned, both sets of tyres have lasted 2 years. The Larsen rear tyre is showing signs of wear but should last another summer.
I guess though that it all depends on where you ride, how often you ride and how you ride!
dave360, that sounds pretty much how I tried except for i had a huge compressor and it still didn't work! I'll maybe give it another go at a petrol station and see how I get on!
Rightyo fellas - I'm now trying 55 psi and if that doesn't do it it's DH tyres, assuming i can get them to inflate.
Maybe it's the brakes off, pedalled off the top fo the gears straight line attack into loose rock?
hillsplease, something sounds wrong mate. If you're above 50psi and ripping tyres. Whereabouts are you riding, what rims are you using, what bike do you have, how heavy are you etc etc.
They just shouldn't be tearing. I'd say that fast and off the brakes through loose rock is probably pretty much the best way to tackle it and the least harsh on your tyres. If you give us all some more info we might be able to help you pinpoint what's going on!
Agree with DezB tha Hutchison tyres are very good - expensive though.
Have been pleasantly surprised with the GEAX TNT Saguaro that I was running over the summer; although not proper UST it has a very robust casing and I failed to hole or tear one - and I'm not a dainty rider... They are, in my opinion, more robust than the LUST Advantage.
I have run quite a few non ust tyres tubeless, just got to use one of the liquids and when you are inflating the tyre, ,make sure you have it seated correctly on the rim and pump like hell...
Hills, sounds like you are using too much rear brake??
I have just gone back to usiing panaracers and think they are really good...
Maxxis LUST and not one issue to date (Medusa/Crossmark)
Tight fit on a ZTR rim but inflated after a little fettle (mostly hand pressure to tyre around the valve area) IME.