Upgrading my CX fro...
 

[Closed] Upgrading my CX from TRP HYRD to full hydraulic on a post mount frame

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So, this seeems to be quite complicated, so grateful any advice, and apologies if this has been covered elsewhere here and I just haven't found it.

I LOVE my CX bike which is a DeBall based on a Fuji but I don't love the TRP brakes...

my options seem to be limited, as I'm post mount and 10speed. I could apparently try the standard Shimano hydraulic shifter (RS405) twinned with Hope post mount calipers, but that would be eye wateringly expensive..unless anyone has any ideas???

Shimano do an ST-RS505 set up with a post mount option but it's 11speed and my wheels aren't (and they are awesome wheels so I don't want to ditch them)

ideally id switch to a SRAM 1x11 (as apparently my hub will take the SRAM  XD cassette) but all those groupsets are flat mount and apparently you can't convert post to flat (but you can convert flat to post!!!)

i even looked at buying a new bike (with SRAM 1x11 or similar), but to get carbon frame and hydraulic there doesn't appear to anything below £2k (e.g. The very groovy Canyon Grail) and my DeBall was a second hand bargain at £700...

So that's really as far as I've got in terms of research, and I'd be really grateful firstly for any comments on the assumptions I've made above (which could be wrong) and any other options folks can think of.  Thanks in advance for your patience.


 
Posted : 14/06/2018 9:28 am
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I was in a similar situation with a gravel bike I bought recently - a Kinesis with 1x10 & TRP mechanical discs - which weren’t great.

I looked into a full upgrade with Hydraulic shifters (used off eBay) bit they don’t seem to do 10speed ones & I didn’t really need to upgrade to 11speed.

My solution was to go for a set of Hope V-Twin hydraulic brakes. They have a set of resovours set under the stem which are operated by short cables & then run hydraulic hoses down to the calliper. I like Hope & have them on all my MTBs. They are easy to bleed & pretty much fit & forget - & work really well.

The set cost £100 used off eBay (some come up a bit more /less) & mine are in Ex condition. I’m currently selling my TRP mechanical calliper on eBay & hope to get back £60-£70 ish. Your TRP Hydros will fetch a bit more.

I do have TRP Hydros on a road bike & they are pretty good too so apart from replacing lengths of cable with hydro hoses you might not see too much improvement.


 
Posted : 14/06/2018 9:51 am
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If you get the RS405 levers, then just get some deore M6000 calipers (or M615 if you can find them or they're cheaper.

I've got RS685s running deore calipers just fine. They're not that light, but they are post mount, cheap, and powerful. It'll still be expensive though, perhaps try a different pad compund/type to see if that helps first?


 
Posted : 14/06/2018 9:54 am
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Sram is still available with post mount calliper.

I had a similar situation with road wheels. Wheels10 speed too good to not use but being 10 speed not worth selling on. Bike 11 speed. I just run an 11 speed cassette with a sprocket removed on the wheels.

Choose the cassette carefully so you don't get a significant jump in sprockets around the one you take out.


 
Posted : 14/06/2018 9:58 am
 cp
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What don't you like about the Hy:Rd's?  I find them really good with TRP compression-less cables, but they do benefit from a good bleed from the outset..

I use the epic bleed solutions Tektro kit.  Remove caliper from bike and hold in one hand whilst syringing in the other.  Move the caliper round all orientations whilst filling with oil and it's amazing how much more air comes out compared to a 'static' bleed.

What are your wheels?  If you know anyone with a lathe, it's usually possible to modify most freehubs to accept an 11 speed road cassette.

Otherwise... to stick with 10 speed you options are very limited.

You could try and find some 405 levers or levers and calipers and add/swap the calipers with some post mount ones.  If you went with 405 levers, you'd also have to change your existing mechs (front and back) as 405 uses the same pull ratio as 11 speed shimano road kit.


 
Posted : 14/06/2018 10:13 am
 Andy
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Also if the pads that come with the Hyrd's are anything like the stock pads that come with the TRP Spyres then they will be terrible. I found a massive difference when I changed my pads to Shimano Deore on one bike and Uberbike race matrix on another.


 
Posted : 14/06/2018 10:25 am
 cp
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Also if the pads that come with the Hyrd’s are anything like the stock pads that come with the TRP Spyres then they will be terrible. I found a massive difference when I changed my pads to Shimano Deore on one bike and Uberbike race matrix on another.

THIS!  I meant to mention this as well.  Stock TRP pads are awful.  I changed mine to Uberbike semi metallic and made a huge difference.


 
Posted : 14/06/2018 10:34 am
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Yep I’ll agree with that. The stock TRP pads are junk as are the rotors - fine at mountain bike speeds but if you need to brake hard at 45-50mph + then the fluttering of the rotor will make it hard to keep your mind in the job which isn’t helpful.  Standard SLX or better rotors are a massive confidence upgrade. I don’t want to experience rotor failure at those speeds!

More generally, why is post mount a problem?  Mountain bike callipers exist. If you’re already into Frankengroup for RS405 10spd, then just add the Shimano MTB calliper of your choice. 🙂


 
Posted : 14/06/2018 11:21 am
 Andy
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Yep just done a week long bikepacking trip and couldnt work out why wasnt stopping on descents until swapped out pads...


 
Posted : 14/06/2018 11:25 am
 kcr
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One other trick you can try with the Hy:Rds is to swap the cable clamp plate and bolt from the top of the actuator to the bottom, and run the cable so it is clamped on the inside of the bolt, instead of the outside:

http://www.deballbikes.com/blogs/news/14983521-how-to-get-the-best-out-of-your-trp-hy-rd-disc-brakes

I found that this improved the brake action significantly, by taking up a lot of dead travel on my brake levers, so I didn't have to pull them all the way to the bars before they bit.

Do not fiddle with the actuating arm grub screw or try to preload the cable pull. It is important to use the locking screw when you set up the cable and make sure the piston operates through the full range of travel, or the fluid release port can stop working, and you'll get no braking!

I used Hy:Rds for a few years, and they were a lot better than the BB7s I used previously, but I finally upgraded to 105 hydro this year (and they've added two gears since I last bought a groupset!). I find the brake performance and feel is a big improvement over the TRPs, and the setup and self adjustment also works better. One of the long term issues I had with Hy:Rds was one piston tended to stick a bit so they didn't retract evenly, but the Shimano brakes need to go through a proper winter of commuting to see what their long term durability is like, and whether they stand up to normal wear and tear OK.


 
Posted : 14/06/2018 11:35 am
 Andy
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Interested in this as have Spyres and wondering whther Hyrds will produce much of an overall improvement, or whether to go straight to full hydraulics


 
Posted : 14/06/2018 12:03 pm
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I have the Hope v twin brakes on my cx race bike and trp hy/rd on my winter/bikepacking/trailer/Audax bike. The TRPs are way better in terms of feel and power. Change your pads first and clean your rotors with IPA.

Also, you can use 11speed groupset and cassette with 10speed wheels. You use the 9/10sp spacer, the 11speed cassette minus the 11T cog, and with a 12T lockring. Then set the limit screws on the derailleur as you would normally. You end up with a redundant high or low shift and a 10 speed gearset but you can use your wheels.


 
Posted : 14/06/2018 12:38 pm
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Incredibly helpful replies folks, thanks so much. I did get new pads for the TRPs but haven’t tried the other tips and tricks so will do a bleed, and try new compression cables before launching into the wild world of full hydraulic 10sp post mount ...


 
Posted : 14/06/2018 12:45 pm
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To be clear, they are miles better than my old BB7 and BB5 set up on my last CX!


 
Posted : 14/06/2018 12:48 pm
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post mount and 10speed

On the full-hydro option, why not ST-RS405 shifters with BR-RS785 calipers (BH59 hose)? You would also need new mechs; either 4700, 5800 or 6800 series will work for 10 speed with the RS405s. As for cost, eBay is your friend.


 
Posted : 14/06/2018 1:08 pm
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@johnhighfield Thanks - very encouraging to think the TRPs will make a little back!


 
Posted : 14/06/2018 8:06 pm
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Thanks @faustus good tips


 
Posted : 14/06/2018 8:09 pm
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@Picto that's a really good 'cheat'


 
Posted : 14/06/2018 8:10 pm
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@cp I just find them weak, and end up leaning on them permanently on descents which is knackering.  But I haven't tried your fixes, so will


 
Posted : 14/06/2018 8:11 pm
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So on my defy disc I was so disappointed with the trp standard ones. Went down the hope twin v route.

very powerful but no feel. Kept with them and sold them with the bike so must have been happy.

now I have the same trp brakes on my anyroad comax. After surfing a wile I decided to go down the new pads and compressionless cable route. Wow west wales descents on holiday we’re fine no sore gripping hands and no lack of power. Adjust them correctly and follow advice you’ll be fine.


 
Posted : 14/06/2018 8:29 pm
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Thanks.  Just ordered the compassionless cable and bleed kit...!  Fingers crossed.


 
Posted : 15/06/2018 10:30 pm
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Just take a file to the free hub and go 11 speed if you can. 15 minutes or maybe only 10 to knock about1.8mm off each spline. Done it to many Shimano and Hope hubs. Don't even bother with a lathe.


 
Posted : 15/06/2018 10:48 pm