Never thought this would be simple! So have removed uhd compatible mech and replaced with uhd hanger and normal mech. Hope hub and Eagle 12 cassette.
So why, when I do up the axle won’t the wheel spin? There is no space between the 10 tooth and the hanger!
Tightened cassette, took hanger off re-fitted. Can’t see how to make a difference…
What stupidity from me has occurred this time? 😥 Thanks
The wheel hollow axle/end cap should bear against the inside of the UDH/drop out to allow it to spin - does the hub need a different cap to work with UDH?
Transmission cassette?
What's the bike?
I've found that UDH hangers are not all the same... I'm looking at you Santa Cruz!
Maybe take the wheel and UDH hanger off and see how they mesh together off the bike?
Transmission cassette?
It is a T-Type cassette. I have a bog-standard Eagle one… i’ll try that.
bike is Cannondale Moterra sl. Nothing in the documentation suggests it needs a specific hanger, not that I can see.
does the hub need a different cap to work with UDH?
I wish I knew where to find this information
Interesting... So, does the t-type cassette suit further outboard then? If so, does that leave SRAM enough room to add a 13th cog? 🤔
I didn’t check it, its only about 2mm difference - the non t-type cass sits further in, leaving a bit more end cap. I doubt there’s enough room for a bigger low-gear cog with t-type. I’d guess there’s a slightly different spread on the cogs.
I thought they had a different spread as well, but someone else was adamant they were compatible.
Interesting... So, does the t-type cassette suit further outboard then? If so, does that leave SRAM enough room to add a 13th cog?
Might be enough to squeeze it in overhanging the spokes even further?
The point of the T-type cassette and rear mech is that the geometry (the gap) between the 'hanger' (I know its called a hanger) and the cassette is fixed - where previously this was entirely depended on how the frame manufacturer had designed their dropouts and bolted on hanger.
Apparently there are many different udh’s. No idea why. Kind of defeats the point imho
I didn’t check it, its only about 2mm difference
It's a 3mm outboard bias. That's why T type runs a 55mm chainline.
Though having said that we have two bikes in the garage running T type that both run better on a 52mm chainline.
I saw that stuff about the 55mm etc chainlines on Sram's site. But it's the only place I could find any reference to it. Nothing on the manufacturer site. Is the 52mm chainline something you just know? Or is it in your bike's spec?
Is the 52mm chainline something you just know? Or is it in your bike's spec?
It'll depend what crank and chainring combo you're using.
You could always measure it.
Centre of the downtube to centre of the chainring.
Chances are if the bike came with T type it'll have a 55mm chainline crank/chainring combo.
It's got a funky concave sram chainring so I wouldn't know where to measure 😊 No doubt it's a 55 anyway. Or was til I fitted the hanger and not TType cassette... All sorted now, the horrible electronic nonsense is off it! Proper mech and shifter installed.
Or was til I fitted the hanger and not TType cassette...
Chainline is adjusted via the crank/chainring. If you've not changed that it'll still be the same.
Measure from the center of the seat tube to the center of the chainring teeth.