I'd be grateful for some STW Advice
Looking at my (new) frame the tyre clearance on the frame is definitely unequal... More clearance on the drive side. The wheel is not out of true and rotates with no wobble.
Overall it doesn't seem to have any negative effect but I've never had (or noticed on other frames) this before.
Any ideas? Dodgy Mech Hanger? Rear Drop out misalignment?
Cheers
what was your old frame and what is the new one?
The wheel may be true but is it dished right? It could be perfectly round but slightly offset to one side. Is it possible to temporarily put it in backwards? That will show whether it's the wheel or the frame.
Most likely dishing
dishing
Your new frame isn't a Specialized or Cannondale is it? I've had two of their DH frame and both wheels have odd dishes.
Thanks all
New frame Cove Stiffee.
Old frames Orange Evo, SC Blur and another Stiffee. I'll check out dishing but the rear wheel came of the Blur so I think it's unlikely.
Cheers
Some frames do have asymmetrical chainstays. Not all though. I had the same thing on my inbred, turned out the chainstay had bent and the frame was binned 🙁
check the wheel is sat right in the dropouts - I'd go as far as to drop it out and then put it back in again
Or just trim the knobbles with a pair of scissors.
turn the wheel round ... is it off to the same side or the other ...
if the same side then the frame is out - if the other then the wheel is out.
Not uncommon for frames to be out by a bit - intense are bad forit !
Take it to a frame builder/bike shop and get them to check it?
Most likely dishing as others say, but could at a stretch be a wonkly frame, but in that case youd expect the wheel to be a pig to fit and you'd be able to see that the head tube/seatube/rwar wheel werent in a line (take the tyre off and check by eye).
Seen this loads of times,
If after checking all of the above (dishing, tyre, etc) have a good look at the bike from the front.
If the headtube, seattube and rear wheel are all inline and parallel with each other, then the frame is probably ok.
What is important (and held in the jig when it's welded) are that the headtube, seattube, bb shell and rear drop outs are all lined up properly.
The bits that connect them aren't as vital. One of your chainstays could be welded a bit further inboard at the bb shell than the other one.
No worries really, but I wouldn't be happy that a supposedly quality frame has been put together like that.
But there again; I'm a perfectionist, nit-picking type !!
IME, very few frames are actually bang on so if you swap a wheel between frames, you'll find that it sits perfectly in one but is off on another.
As suggested, fit the wheel the wrong way round and see if that's different.
my meridas off slightly at the tire - but so are many carbon/alloy/steel/ti frames ive built. as above - important parts are headtube centre and drop outs are alligned correctly so the bike doesnt crab. and that the seattube is perpendicular to the BB faces so your have half a chance of the pedals being alligned correctly
then again my hope hoops were a mile out of dish when i recieved them TWICE ! thought my sids were bent again but when a dishing tool was offered up it was about 6mm out
Asothers have said, it sounds a lot like the wheel is out of dish (have I just created a new term?).
Who built the wheel before?