Hi, I am trying to tape up some Easton ARC 30's using 30mm yellow tape. No matter how hard I pull the tape during application, I cant get the tape to seat in the channel where the spoke holes are. Currently sat with a tube in at 60psi to see if that will stretch the tape into the channel.
On the 2nd wheel, I noticed it was easy to cut small rectangles of tape about 2 to 2.5 times the size of a spoke hole. These would seat right in the channel and could be seen to be making good contact. Other than a bit of effort any reason why this wouldn't work. The only problem I can see is the tape disappearing down the spoke hole under air pressure.
Thanks in advance
Not familiar with that rim but can't understand why tape wouldn't conform to it's shape. You need a LOT of tension to get Stans/TESA tape to conform to the shape of some rims.
I seriously doubt that individual patches over each spoke hole will stay in place for long.
Once you take the tube out I reckon the tape will be seated.
There is a company that sells sticky plugs that you put over each spoke hole so cutting the tape [i]should[/i] work.
I think there is more chance of leaks compared to taping the whole thing.
Currently sat with a tube in at 60psi to see if that will stretch the tape into the channel.
This will happen
You need a LOT of tension to get Stans/TESA tape to conform to the shape of some rims.
This too.
Alternatively, just use PVC electrical tape, a couple of layers are fine to about 40psi and it's much easier to apply than stans/tesa. It's a tiny fraction of the price too.
One layer of this will sort it.
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If it hasn't stuck, maybe try narrower tape ?
you only really need to cover the spoke holes and any fancy profiling (including the UST ridges) is harder for tape to cover properly
also, warming tape and rims helps, rather than doing it in a shed at -3
Overlapping narrow tape is often much easier than the wide stuff on wide rims with difficult profiles, but I reckon the tube'll sort it.
I had early carbon rims with a very deep channel that I was determined to make tubeless: An initial strip of very narrow tesa tape stretched to within a millimetre of its life, followed by a full width layer - made them the best sealing rims I've ever had.
Also, I always take some scotch pad to the rims, then clean thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol before applying the tape.
Except it's porous and eventually peels off once wet through with sealant/water.One layer of this will sort it.
The repair-film version is great through.
I've been using the ENVE tape that came with the wheels, which looks like gorilla. Really easy to use and gets into shape without any fuss. Just be careful with levers though!
I think ENVE tape is rebadged Gorilla tape cut to ENVE rim width - I seem to remember them saying that on their very good tubeless install video.
OP. The tube will stretch out the tape and press it in very nicely. On difficult to tape rims that's how I do it.
Otherwise, Gorilla tape is your friend because it conforms much easier than Stans or Superstar yellow tape.
I found that if I only taped over the spoke holes with narrower tape then it usually got stuck in the tyre bead when you changed tyres later and usually pulled up somewhere - on a rim I did that on once I then taped over it again with some wider tape and that worked fine then. I think that's why it's better to tape as wide as possible edge to edge from the start.
I've been through the learning curve on tubeless and tried countless methods. All successful so far but each one a step better than the previous. I just changed tyres around on three rims last weekend. No hassle. Few of the tape edges looked a bit rammy and my OCD wanted to rip them off and start over but I didn't and they still worked fine.
When I re-do them eventually it'll be Gorilla tape all the way and that's what I take in my spares box.
