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Has the gripping arm on your 591 ever caused any damage/marks at all to the frame at the point of being gripped?
I have a steel frame and am looking to purchase a pricey 15mm adpater for my current Thule 561, or, as I will likely be transporting 2 bikes around most of the time I am considering a 2nd hand 591 for my main ride and the exisiting 561 on the other bike (which is QR).
I'm just not 100% sold on the twist/grip nature of the 591, particularly if gripping, for example, a naked carbon frame. Instead I like the solid interface of the 561/fork dropout.
What are your experiences?
If you don't wash the bike you can end up with marks but a bit of helitape stops any problems.
It's not a problem if you protect that area of the frame, which I assume you would.
I use mine on a clear coat carbon frame, the finish is shit anyway but carrier hasn't caused any issues.
seeing 591's for sale at 'sandcliffeshop' for £55. Seems a good price, although £6 for postage on top.
Have heard latest versions are built longer for 650b/29ers, can anyone confirm this?
As said, only if mud/grit is there when I do it up. Some minor scratching there but hard to tell as everything else is pretty scratched (like from muddy shorts brushing the top tube).
Helitape it. Done.
Anyone got one for sale?
Heard very bad things about bike racks that clamp the fork like those 561s. Most fork makers say not to use them, afaik.
Anyone got one for sale?
I've got a spare one that's going to be getting sold at some point.
I'd do it for £30 but you'd need to collect it from the Staines area.
Has the gripping arm on your 591 ever caused any damage/marks at all to the frame at the point of being gripped?
Yes, not much paint left. It's an old aluminium frame though
No marks to any of mine. If you wipe the mud off the frame around the clamp area and make sure there is no mud or grime on the clamp faces then the rubber jaws don't leave a mark.
Mine is plenty big enough to fit a large 29er on.
racks like the 561 must put a lot of loading on the forks that they never see in normal use. I'm not sure they're a great idea.
cp - Memberracks like the 561 must put a lot of loading on the forks that they never see in normal use. I'm not sure they're a great idea.
Really? Why do you think the load on the fork with no rider on the bike would be greater than what they see in usage?
I'm just not 100% sold on the twist/grip nature of the 591, particularly if gripping, for example, a naked carbon frame.
Don't use the 591 if your frame is carbon.
If it's painted alloy, yes you'll lose some paint as it rubs during travel. Helitape helps if you can be bothered. I've had painted & anodised frames on mine and they've all lost finish.
My raw metal frame is brushed so you can't really tell. I'd leave a raw steel frame and helitape a finished one, don't forget to tape the bit of the seat tube where the arm can extend to.
Really? Why do you think the load on the fork with no rider on the bike would be greater than what they see in usage?
There definately was an insue, in use the fork can move arround and most of the loads are taken verticaly through the fork, on the the racks the dropouts get twisted arround.
IIRC it was mostly an issue with bonded dropouts like Pace on their carbon forks.
thisisnotaspoon - MemberThere definately was an insue, in use the fork can move arround and most of the loads are taken verticaly through the fork, on the the racks the dropouts get twisted arround.
Hmm. Mine is 20mm, so the fork is clamped exactly as it would be to a hub, so I'm struggling to see a difference, really. There'd be far stronger twisting forces when the bike is ridden with a 200lb+ me sat on it.
Really? Why do you think the load on the fork with no rider on the bike would be greater than what they see in usage?
when you're riding the bike the forks aren't rigidly fixed to an effectively immovable object with a big cantilever swinging off the back of it with rather large loadings on it from the wind.
the loadings a fork sees in use are [b]very[/b] different to the loadings on a fork clamp style bike rack.
I've got a spare one .I'd do it for £30 but you'd need to collect it from the Staines area.
Sold. Used to live in St.Aines so know the place well, will drop you an email to arrange. Cheers.
racks like the 561 must put a lot of loading on the forks that they never see in normal use. I'm not sure they're a great idea.
I kinda get what people mean here, however, I use(d) mine with a 20mm Maxle converter which seems a rock solid interface. As above, my amateur engineering mind can't see how that would create more stress than the fork shouldering the combined weight of my fat ass and bike gear down a hill at 40mph.
Ok, 20mph.
15.
so the fork is clamped exactly as it would be to a hub
yes, but it's loaded and restrained very very differently.
There'd be far stronger twisting forces when the bike is ridden with a 200lb+ me sat on it.
Probably not actually
yes, but it's loaded and restrained very very differently.
Most common issue is that when clamping the fork in you are doing it from one side and the load you're applying at the point of locking is likely to be uneven on each dropout.
Had a fork mounted rack fail a few years ago and was lucky that the bike didn't hit the car behind me, in my case the clamp had a manufacturing fault so I had the damage to my car's roof and the bike covered by the supplier as the rack was only 2 weeks old!
man this thread is making me never want to put my bike on a car again!
above, my amateur engineering mind can't see how that would create more stress
Fortunately we have professional engineers, and they have said iirc not to use these racks. That was a while ago mind.
Yep , first time I used my 591 in conjunction with my 29er Whyte , I noticed a small mark on the frame from rub , since then the bikes been helitaped and I simply wrap a micro fibre cloth around the frame at point of contact , seems to do the job
Yep too - noticed the frame was getting a bit polished by the clamp. Now just wrap a strip of old inner tube round the frame first and no problem. Useful if transporting road bikes too as you can put the inner tube between the frame and cables, so it stops the cables scratching the frame too.