[Closed] Tazzy's Wobbly Rings - Anything current? Anyone keen?

My ring turned up yesterday, very impressed so far, thanks Taz

[url=

Do we have to "Join" one cog to get that?

I presume they cannot be used in a 2x setup?

Cheers Tazzy, muchos appreciatos da timos un effortos u hath givn to elp us whiney STW's...

Wobbly wobble, peddly peddle.. 😆

Just fitted the 34t to my Swift.

* it fits nicely on the middle ring of an SLX HT2 crankset
* I had [b]just[/b] enough adjustment in the EBB that I didn't need to adjust the chain length (from 32T), the the EBB is wound right back now, not ideal. (But presumably adding in a whole chain link would put it way to the front again - no good either?)
* rode it up the road 100m in total, it felt a tad odd, well it would, fair enough, any tips on "how to ride it"?
* is there a link to the science on this? If the chain is always on 1/2 the ring, ie the same number of teeth ... I don't quite get how it can change the gearing ...

Nothing wrong with the EBB being all the way back is there?

Means you've got max. adjustment available when you need it, and those short chainstays and steep seattube angle that everyone says are so brilliant.

Win + Win + Win = WinWinWin

no I guess not, hmm perhaps it's better as you say. It changes the fit a bit is all but I can put a 10mm shorter stem on and slide the seat back a tad

When i bought mine the chap in the shop said to ideally run the EBB with the fat part at the bottom because otherwise there was a lot of downward pressure over the thin part of the EBB where the locking screws are positioned.

Not sure if that made sense, having issues describing what i mean 😳

Not really.

For tensioning I set the EBB so the hole containing the BB goes from 9 o'clock to 6 o'clock towards 3 o'clock, rather than via 12 o'clock.

Is that what you mean?

Ah ok the fat part, you mean the part with the least BB in it not the part with most BB in it.

It seems I do opposite! Low centre of gravity and all that!

Yeah, the fat part of the EBB should be on the lock screws if poss. Not sure how much truth there is in it, i'm just going by what i was told and it seemed to make sense at the time.

I think I get what the bike shop guy was saying, and if I do, I'm pretty sure he's wrong.

Pedal force goes into BB cups, from there into the EBB lump, from there into the EBB shell. Those first few bits aren't not going to deformed much by pedal power, so I think the force on the pinch bolts won't vary significantly with the position of the crank spindle.

Just bought mine for use with 1x10.

Hopefully it'll work otherwise it'll go on the SS.

Is the EBB a consumable or are they silly expensive?

so I think the force on the pinch bolts won't vary significantly with the position of the crank spindle

That's not the issue tho, the issue (I think) is the thicker the bit of metal the pinch bolts are tightened into the less likely the EBB shell is to be pitted/damaged by the bolts.

Not that I know. It's worked well so far!

Niner EBB' s are about £50.00 IIRC, but there is one on eBay s/h at the moment...

HTH

Yes Matt, you have it, as i understand it anyway. As i say though, this is just hearsay, no idea how much truth there is in it or if it is worth worrying about at all. Given that you've been running yours without any adverse effects then probably not.

depends on the EBB, with a something like a swift where the pinch bolts are in the frame,relying on the 2 pinch bolts so the forces will be different to something like a niner with an opposing clamp or bushnell EBB where the BB shell is solid.

[img] [/img]

[img] [/img]

no idea if it actually makes a difference, I've always run mine as per manufactures spec which tends to be thick wedge bit at the top where reasonably practicable.

There we go just like that picture. @gotama maybe you were misinformed.

Anyway I'm not worried about the EBB - any tips on the science/how-to-ride-better of these rings? Or is it JDI?

first thing: is the odd feeling the ring or the move of EBB and ride position?

second thing: yeh it can feel a bit odd as for a ride or two until you adjust, good pedal drill works a treat with high cadence spin and just mosh like a monster on the steep climbs and feel the awesomez pile on. 😀

Could be the EBB move too, yes.

It was only 50m up the road and back, will take it for a proper spin tomorrow and report back. I saw your note in FB re not going too hard to start with due to different muscle use, thx.

tazzy I had the chain way too tight too, I slacked it a bit, as per your FB PDF, that loosened it up a bit too.

MIne was here waiting for me when I got back from a work trip so thanks tazzy for sorting this out!

It's ear wonkier than I thought, looking forward to trying it out!

I did 15 miles hilly XC on my wonky 34T this morning (replacing a round 32T). Just an 18 on the back. Conditions were snow, slush, ice, clag, clarts, puddles, even a bit of sun. Perfect SS conditions.

Nothing negative to report. The spin felt smoother not lumpier or square. Hard to say if I was any quicker on the flats (but partly because they were covered in ice so I was mincing).

Likewise we didn't do any of my benchmark will-he-won't-he-make-it climbs, so that test will have to wait.

I reckon I did feel a benefit on spinning up to attack short stabby climbs - when you're doing half a dozen fast pedal strokes to get some momentum onto a ramp. I'm pretty sure I was accelerating quicker, hitting the climbs with more power and keep it going longer. Big win there if I'm right.

I also think I noticed a bit less forearm pump.

Possibly I could have gone to a 35T. I need to go do some of the steep grindy climbs - the ones at the edge of my ability - before I can be more certain. I'm pretty sure I could run a 35T in the dry anyway.

[i]All the above is totally subjective and unscientific.[/i]

nice one matt. 🙂

Before I mess this up and come back posting about how carp they are can I check I'm fitting it the right way up?

I'm pretty sure I'm right but a little confused 🙂

When the crank is at 4 o'clock the widest axis of the chainring should be vertical. Is that correct?

if you look at the chainring there is a little "crank here" laser etched bit. so at 4 oclock the ring should be tallest vertically as it were so sounds like you have it right. Set the chain tension in this position and it should spin freely for a couple of revolutions with no chain drop.

Thanks!

Makes sense.

Humph! Really want to try one of these but a) I've missed the boat on the cheapy deal and b) I've just put a new Uno ring on and the previous one lasted about four years.

Humph! Really want to try one of these but a) I've missed the boat on the cheapy deal and b) I've just put a new Uno ring on and the previous one lasted about four years.

may have a prototype in the bits box I can send you.

Went out for a ride with mine today, felt great. Much better when you're standing up pedalling as it felt like one foot was always in the power position, something which was particularly noticeable if beasting it up a steep section. Also felt easier/quicker to accelerate as matt mentioned above. Initial snap one decent ride reaction is that I'd definitely recommend to anyone with a singlespeed. Just need to get another one now to go on the yelli 😀

I've missed the boat on the cheapy deal

Also felt easier/quicker to accelerate

Gotama - Member
Went out for a ride with mine today, felt great. Much better when you're standing up pedalling as it felt like one foot was always in the power position, something which was particularly noticeable if beasting it up a steep section. Also felt easier/quicker to accelerate as matt mentioned above. Initial snap one decent ride reaction is that I'd definitely recommend to anyone with a singlespeed. Just need to get another one now to go on the yelli

Just did my first ride on it in my lunch break and I'd echo the above.

How do you set up the Shimano spline versions like this?

[img] [/img]

EDIT... I've just seen it says "align crank arm here" down at the bottom of the mahoosive picture 😳

🙄