Im thinking of picking up a 5" bike in the sales as a second bike for a bit of fun type ripping.
Evans are clearing out 2010 214 Zestys for 1200 quid at the moment which seems like pretty good value to me for a well rated frame set with reasonable kit to get me going as a second ride.
Its only for ripping round my local woods, trails and comfy cruisy xc riding and the only rock gardens where I live tend to be planted with bulbs and built around gold fish ponds.
The only difference I can see between this and the 2011 version is the nicer paint job, a tapered head tube and £500.
Chances are I'll end up re lacing the front rim with a 20mm hub and pick up a maxeled revalation in the sales so id imagine its still going to be a pretty stiff front end after this anyway, and I can do this for a lot less than £500 if I also sell on the recon fork the bike comes with.
You have to spend over £2500 to get a through axel on a stock tapered zesty anyway.
My question is am I really going to notice a tapered head tube that much to warrant the extra cash for my type of riding or are they just a bit of a over hype fashion accesory?
any advice apreciated before I click the add to basket button!
Don't worry about it.
I've got the same bike - and I use either a Maxle Rev or Fox 36 - both have felt more than stiff enough. It's a pretty stiff frame anyway.
Only reason I would upgrade would be for one of the semi/full carbon frame ones - as it is not a lightweight frame.
Not sure if it's the extra beefy fork steerer that makes the difference, or the extra beefy head tube or the combination of the two but I have noticed no difference (in terms of stiffness) between the first alloy stumpjumper frame I got with standard head tube & the tapered tube that came on the carbon replacement.
Not a true representation though, as it's running the standard steerer fork with an insert in the bottom race of the headtube.....
I'm fairly sure Tapered was originally created as a compromise between 1.5 and 1.1/8 for long travel bikes to minimise the weight but strengthen the bottom cup on long travel forks (160mm +) etc. So for a 5" trail bike it isn't too relevant other than not having the latest "thing" on your bike.
MBR recently reviewed the 2011 Orange 5 and Pitch Pro in the same mag concluding that the 5 was noticeably stiffer than the older 5's with only 1.1/8 head tubes however apparently the Pitch with only the 1.1/8 headset still scored 10 out of 10 and it was reported that it felt no less stiff than a tapered set up. Due to this and other poor journalism I then cancelled my subscription.
As you rightly say a 20mm Maxle Revelation is a stiff fork in the first place.
Watch some 4x racing and i'm pretty sure they have been managing with 1.1/8 head tubes ok for a while.
No.
It's a load of tosh and a total marketing gimmick. I have a tapered head tube on my 5"er and it makes no difference at all except it is really tricky to buy a headset for and a bit fatter at the bottom. It is very stiff but that's because it's a top quality frame and doesn't feel any more stiff than my old bike with a 1.1/8th headset.
Rather like 15mm front hubs, it's just another way of controlling the market and what you buy.
Guys thanks for the feedback.
I kind of suspected unless I could push the standard head tube frame to its limits, which with my average level of skills Im sure I cant, £500 saved would be much better spent else where.
I have never ridden a tappered tubed bike hence my asking but on my experience of standard frames, just adding a stiffer wheel is sometimes enough. My crossmax with magura QR fork on my hard tail tracks as well as some thru axel forked bikes I've tried, even though at 130mm it should really be bolt through if you belive all you read.
Shit the bed.... Your riding 130mm QR!! You might die until your dead if you carry on with antics like that young man.
from what i've read, been told most of the flex is in the the fork legs...
andyflux I know, I know, Im playing with fire! And on a Cotic Soda, the most noodlest of the noodle frames around acording to reviews!
With this crazy combination I have to shedule changes in direction into my diary a full 3 weeks before I actually want to make them! Stll it does give me a chance to get the invites out to my nearest and dearest for my ineveatable funeral for being so foolish!
pastcaring your probably right there.
Jump back onto a ridged fork and it feels lovely and stiff.
It's the answer to the problem that doesn't exist. Bit like 142mm rear hub spacing.
If your looking for a bargain [url= http://www.edinburghbicycle.com/ebwPNLqrymode.a4p?f_ProductID=11482&f_SupersetQRY=C224&f_SortOrderID=1&f_bct=c023254c023606 ]this[/url] is pretty good and you would not have to worry about the head tube.
The tapered steerer is technically stronger, and the fatter section of head tube could help make a stiffer frame. Whether the uncalibrated hand of a non-journo could detect it is another matter! But no, wouldn't worry about it.
twelveski, thanks for the heads up buddy, that does look quite a bargin. Might be a bit too much bike for round here and for what im looking for though
Take a look at the carbon tapered steerer/crown combo on the new WC revelations... makes it clear what can be done strength/stiffness/weight wise with the move to tapered steerers. Lovely. It's not tosh, or a marketing gimmick, but then neither is it something you absolutely "NEED".
Don't be put off by the too much bike crap. I bought one and I know it's personal preference but I think it rides better than my Five ever did. This was also the first 160mm forked bike I have had that did not have travel adjust and also the first that does not need it. Great bike all-round that will be getting used for everything from the surrey hills to weekend in the lakes. Also £700 less than this years model.