Thinking of switching my XT chainset from 3x9 to 2x9 as I virtually never use the big ring, and my local trails include lots of log hops etc. Can anyone recommend me a bash guard, light but tough and suitable for all day Trail / XC rides and events. The bike is a Yeti 575.
Can't fault the ethirteen one I've got. As it's the only one I've ever had I can't compare it to anything though.
I tried a Raceface Lite alloy bash guard, and it does the job but rapidly gets chipped and scratched if you actually hit anything. Changed it for a gnarly E-13 Turbo plastic one, which continues to look the biz even tho I've scraped it across numerous rocks & logs.
My conclusion - if its about light weight and looks - get an aluminium one, but if its actually gonna get some abuse, get one of the chunky plastic ones instead.
Whats aggressive xc?
FunkyDunc -
Whats aggressive xc?
Good question that, riding hard I suppose, meaning my kit takes some abuse. Who knows? The boundaries seem pretty vague these days.
I thought it was when you fell out with fellow trail users quite often..
BBG
I have a black one of these and it is light sturdy and cheap.
Did you shorten your chain when you got rid of the big ring?
Yes, but don't follow the big-big + two whole links rule. Thats for triples, and you'll end up with a way too short chain on a double. I learnt the hard way and had to bin a nearly new chain as I don't like to re-join them again!
Think I ended up taking a couple of links out versus the triple, but can't be sure as it was really trial and error...
Cheers Perth
Sage advice 😀
on a 2x9 big / big + two links is still the correct chain length. It is however just a couple of links shorter than on a triple.
+1 for the E Thirteen Turbo Charger. I've not used a bash before but this one does the job and still looks shiny after trips to Spain, Wales, Scotland, and..... Swinley Forest!
TJ plus 1 (can't belive I'm typing that!!)
It's the rear mech you need to change really when you go from 3 up to 2 up, should be a medium rather than a long cage.
And why do you think you need a bash ? if you were OK with a triple you've just gained a cm or so extra ground clearance by ditching the hero ring so should be hitting things less often...
I used to run 2x9 and a bash, found the Blackspire setup much better than E-13. Shifted better and felt like less friction when pedaling.
Guess it depends on your definition of 'correct'. Have you seen how the RD cage is stretched out when in big/big? Now that doesn't really matter in a triple setup on an MTB, because most of us rarely use the big ring, and we certainly don't use it with the large end of the cassette.
But a double setup is different. You've got less gears to choose from, and you end up using most of the combinations. And I for one use my big ring for most of the time, and like to use the whole range of the rear with it. So, when I followed the big/big +2 rule with my double, I spent a lot of time with my RD cage stretched to its limit and experienced clunky shifting because of the tension the chain was under. That's why I reverted to a longer chain.
E13 Supercharger. No complaints
Could someone explain the big/big+2 rule to a lowly ingrate like me?
Kind regards,
Conti
+1 E13 Turbocharger but remember to order some bolts too as they don't come with any. Raceface polybash bolts around £5 do the trick nicely
I too opted for a piece of Race Face laser etched loveliness, bit it started to look cack in no time.
My XC bike has a Stylo 2.2 crank with a rather sleek bashguard supplied. The only problem is that the bare aluminium faces are starting to corrode.
+1 E13
22/36/supercharger
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[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/66006996@N07/6011734028/ ]IMAG0021[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/66006996@N07/ ]cplater1[/url], on Flickr
As it happens I have a new Supercharger whic is surplus to my requirements.
£15 posted and its all yours.
Drop me a line at my email in profile if interested 🙂
Conti - it's the widely accepted (Shimano, SRAM & Sheldon Brown) method for determining how long a chain should be. You wrap your new chain round the big chainwheel and big sprocket, without going thru the rear derailler cage, see where the two ends meet, then add two links, or one inch of chain (or one link + a powerlink if thats what you use to join the chain).
As you can see above, there's differing opinions on whether this rule applies to doubles. My experience is that it doesn't, and even the SRAM manual says for doubles add four links.
Craigxxl - I got my E-13 Turbocharger from CRC a couple of months ago, and it came with the longer bolts - well actually, not the bolts but the 'sleeves', and you use the bolts you have - same result! Maybe they've actually listened to customer feedback...
Blackspire C4 is my fave, very light and cheaper than many rivals
Agreed, i'm running a Blackspire C4 and its ace, althoguh never run anything else, so can't compare - £25 including bolts and i'm not running any chain guides and all seems well. Not sure it really matters, i'd maybe take 'stayhigh' up on their offer
Actually if you're considering secondhand ones, I have a clear Supercharger and a white MRP one in my spares box.
Email in profile if interested.
StayHigh
YGM re. the E-Thirteen Supercharger
Hi Nathan, have mailed you back 🙂
I did this recently after a nastly chainring leg slicing incident.
used a Gamut ring (little thinner than E13 so I didnt need new chainring bolts)
After a while I upped the middle ring to 36 and left the granny at 22. The front mech works fine but it is quite a big gap in ratios when you drop down chaninrings. I dont run out of gears very often now I have the 36.
Just a small amend to the above advice. big to big + 2 links is OK unless your suspension design increases the chain length under compression. I learnt this at my cost after a friend did a drop off on my bike with the chain in big \ big and pulled a brand new mech to pieces


