If you can, go and try a ride on a Specialized Aethos. If its ride quality you're after then this has it in spades. It's close to having the best of all worlds, some say it has a feel reminiscent of the best steel frames- a slight spring to it - while being obviously a lot lighter. I'm keen on balanced 'comfort with performance', more like the old classic TDF bikes used to be, I'd struggle to see how anyone would need more comfort than the Aethos unless your local roads closer resemble farm tracks...which some clearly do now. Then if you're still convinced you want steel, compare it back to back to a Ritchey Road Logic and go get one of those...or get one made for you like a Rourke, that would be a specialness one cant just get off the shelf.
Thanks all for the comments so far.
I don’t get too hung up on what the tubing badge says. Having ridden steel bikes for a while now I think I’ve ticked a good few off from across the manufacturers. Some of the nicest riding frames, IMHO, have defied their tubing badge.
The Strael looks lovely (Ultegra mechanical) but I’d probably want to go frame and forks and build it up over winter. Anyone know if they do test rides - didn’t spot it if they do in the website.
The idea is to try and build a bike that will be kept for a while - as a serial frame swapper this may be tricky - appeals but it makes getting it right the first time all the harder!
That Merlin looks interesting.
Don't get hung up on the tubing badge, ohh nooo.
There is a 'zuzzyness' about the way steel frames/forks handle road buzz - it just smooths them out, although that feel may go a bit with carbon forks. Another good thing about handbuilt bikes, is that they usually don't get speed wobble like some off the peg stuff. Never had it with my SLX frame, and only had it with the 653 when I was hit by a very strong side wind doing 50 mph, just slowed slightly, then sped up again.
Just to be the person who argues…..having light aero carbon and heavier steel, my money would be on carbon and aero all day.
TBH same here - got an old Specialised roubiux disk with the gobler seat post and it's very nice riding experience also had a Non-disk Venge which was a loverly thing but not as comfy as the roub. But the noise of the deep disks on it and the sharpness of the handling.
I think obsessing about the materials a bad route - its all about the ride and what your planning on using it for, you need to get your leg over a few and see what bike you like.
I’m keen on balanced ‘comfort with performance’, more like the old classic TDF bikes used to be,
Exactly. So many of those bikes would be classed as noodles by many now (or by me a decade ago) and yet you watch an old clip of Hinault attacking up the lower ramps of Alpe D'Huez in the big ring and tell me frame flex is a problem. They all had the same 'problem' so it was fair and evens in racing but the point is, none of us will ever ride like that and his bike was well up to it.
I think he specced oversized or super over-sized tubes
Super OS is pretty common on modern frames. Most common maybe? Some go larger still on the DT, 38 or 40mm. Pic shows common 'classic' combinations, butting and wall thickness aside.
I have steel road bikes with super OS TT and DT (std 28.6 ST) and std OS tubes. The super OS frame is also compact. Big difference in the ride feel in terms of the flex under cornering and pedalling loads. I have to push the super OS to feel the spring, the other bike is more flexible and has the classic 80s road bike feel.

So many of those bikes would be classed as noodles by many now
Probably explains why the 1971 Mercian frame I has was the most comfortable feeling frame I have owned. Noodly, who knows as I only have one bike at a time so nothing to directly compare it with and I don't put out enough power to get worried about any frame flex robbing me of precious watts.
I have to push the super OS to feel the spring
I recognise this exactly! First time I noticed any sort of 'spring' was getting carried away on rocky Lakes descents with didn'thurt on my tail.
It's all very well having a compliant frame but not if you end up pinch flatting tubeless tyres and dinging rims 😂
I know this is boring suggestion compared to new frame etc, but have you considered just chucking a few quid at a second hand steel road bike and just seeing how it goes for you?
Yes, shifters etc will be dated and it'll be rim brakes, but it'll give you a feel for how much the geometry and gearing make a difference compared to your gravel bike.
This is what I am doing:
You can't beat the appeal and aesthetics of an old skinny tubed steel frame IMO.
Yes, shifters etc will be dated and it’ll be rim brakes
To be honest, and especially since OP said his local riding was mostly flat, the rim brakes would be no bad thing and would offset a good chunk of the extra weight of a steel frame assuming approx 300g extra for a disc brake setup
Followign my previous rather flippant comment aboout finding better riding mates who won't drop you...
How about a set of really nice wheels and (say) a new 50T chainring? On my local rlatively flat rides on an 11-28 cassette, I rarely drop out of the 50T on my triple chainset, so a new wheelset with some light tyres and an appropriate gear selsction will probably get you close to the perfomrance of a new bike, for less money and with nicer components...
@andykirk I made the mistake of joining the Neo Retro Velo facebook page. It has put many similar expensive and unnecessary thoughts in my head, but that's not unusual!
A bike is so much more than frame material. Wheels make a huge difference, as does fit and saddle. Groupsets also. Its the sum of the parts that gives the performance. I’ve got a Strael, with hunt aero wheels and sram force axs, i ve had a few bikes in my time but this one seems to do everything well and i wouldnt swop it for any bling bike. So much so that ive sold all my other road bikes.
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