I have the Cannondale EBB and it is hideous to adjust.
I had one in a 1-FG, it required a club hammer to free it each time I needed to adjust it!
Absolutely loved that bike....
[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/28/42784599_dcec7ba1e2_3k.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/28/42784599_dcec7ba1e2_3k.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/4Mhnv ]Singlespeed heaven[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/brf/ ]Ben Freeman[/url], on Flickr
...just wondering...I plan to fit one of these onto a Ridley x night carbon frame PF30
normally the PFBB's sit inside the frame and the crank arms are flush with the BB.
...how will this now all fit if part of the eccentric shell extrudes the BB?
…how will this now all fit if part of the eccentric shell extrudes the BB?
The chain line will be slightly out, but it will still work.
Will it? Is there enough length in the cranks spindle to compensate?
yeah this is my worry
..also its a full carbon frame - doesnt seem like any metal insert in the bb void
Has anyone used one with a 100percent carbon frame?
When I said White Industries on the previous page, I meant Phil Wood. That's brain fog for you 🙁
Sorry if it confused anyone else. It confused me when I read it again.
Oh, the outboard eccentric BB I still have from way back is, I think, a Forward Components one like this. No longer made. Seems to date from at least 2009:
http://cyclic-bikes.blogspot.com/2009/02/forward-components-eccentric-bottom.html
Sefton - if you email Wheels Manufacturing they're pretty responsive.
Cheers will email them tomorrow.
Also noticed niner make one too
I'm not sure the Niner (Biocentric II) is the same size, happy to be corrected though as it takes a properly sealed BB rather than push fit 🙂
No reply. I've tried sending a few messages on Instagram to them and some other manufacturers too.
Has anyone used one with a full carbon frame?
I think you'll wait a long time for that question to be answered.
I can't really see why it will make a difference though. Its designed to fit in a specific sized hole, i can't think why the material makes much difference or where the ebb will exert additional forces?
Were either of your WheelsMFG bottom brackets tight to fit?
I just cracked the drive side cup on my Problem Solvers version. That one fitted fine.
So I bought the Wheels MFG one.
It feels like I will need to press it in, won't go in by hand. I know it's got the notch so you can rotate it using a BB wrench but I can't help thinking I'm not going to be able to rotate it to tension the chain.
Then I'll bash it out and it will look decidedly secondhand so I won't be able to return it!
My PF30 shell ID is about 45.7-45.8 and the new EBB is 45.95mm. I wonder if PF30 reaming is a thing, however I don't want to risk a standard push fit being too loose in future.
The old BB was torqued correctly, must be my legs! Worryingly, it's marked as discontinued with the distributor and I can't find it on the Problem Solvers website now, I wonder if others have cracked...
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I had exactly this problem with a Wheels Manufacturing EBB. Tried it in two different frames, both way too tight a fit.
I'd bought it from Starbike who were great, if a little slow and got a full refund after I sent it back.
Could try Beer Components as an alternative.
Thanks guys. I'll send the wheels one back I think rather than messing with the frame, I can't find anyone with the reaming tool anyway.
Was going to buy a cheap pf30 and run a tensioner but they are £30 and not sure why most of them say they are for road. So I've bitten the bullet and bought another Problem Solvers from the only shop I can find stock.
The biocentric 30 is my pick of the bunch, but they are not shipping internationally at the moment, and Origin 8 and Beer have big shipping charges.
spooky_b329
Full Member
@2tyredWere either of your WheelsMFG bottom brackets tight to fit?
Definitely snug, not possible to insert just by hand. I grease the cups up and use a homemade bearing press, or when I'm too lazy to look for it, carefully tap them in with a rubber mallet.
Once fitted, there's no issue backing the tensioning bolts off a bit and using a lockring remover to rotate the cups for setting tension.
Thanks 2tyred. I've just bought one of the last of the Problem Solvers one from Bikemongers. Now discontinued... Interestingly/annoyingly, Problem Solvers responded immediately by email when I had a fitting query last year, but when I emailed them about the cup cracking (hoping they might resolve rather than sending back to a retailer and distributor with no stock) they have ignored me.
Shand have just told me they have switched to a BB that didn't come up during my Googling, and it appears to be a bit like the Biocentric in that the two cups are linked to avoid misalignment and would be my first choice if I hadn't bought the Problem Solvers a day earlier...
It also looks like they manufacturer their parts in the UK which is nice
I can see Kerleys point on being picky about gear inches. But TBH that's more than offset by changes in gradient/surface/headwind. You're always in the wrong gear to a greater or lesser extent. Swapping between a 32 and 33t chairing isn't noticeable at all (although you have to remember it's a 2t difference to get roughly the same chain length change as a half link).
Even gurning up steep hills in too high a gear still works, as long as you can maintain some momentum and a cadence (even if it's in the 30-60 range) then your legs are pretty good at just applying more torque to generate the same power as your mate on his geared bike spinning away at low torque high/cadence.
I've ridden the same trails with the same group in 32-14 and 32-21. Aside from spinning out on the flats they both kept up just fine (the high gear just needed a bit more body English to get it up climbs as you had to rely on momentum rather than being able to grind up the steep bits).
Also Kerley and I ride fixed gravel bikes, not MTBs. Which is a completely different kettle of fish to gear as you're dealing with the downhill spinning and braking power as much as climbing.
