[Closed] Spoke question- wheelbuildy time

I would go 270 I reckon going a bit longer usually is better if you go to short you can end up with the spoke being in the nipple threads but not actually being inside the rim which isn't great

I'd probably chance 270 all round as you're proposing. Some nipple/spoke combos can bottom out so watch for that. It can be remedied with nipple washers though.

I'd prefer to go for the 268's as there's nothing to be gained by having the spoke protruding through the nipple (apart from punctures) and as stated above the risk of the threads bottoming.

Crc do comp spokes in packets of 18.

But off the two risks, too much spoke is less of an issue than too little. I'm not familiar with the rims quoted but it's been twenty years or so since I built a single walled rim.

You should drink a finger for every spoke you get fitted and keep us updated.

Some of the german sites sell single spokes, or 10/16 packs.

Last i looked it was the cheapest way to get spokes other than opening a trade account.

Clearly too long is better than too short as too short will be weak

]IO think you will probably get away with either size but personally I would go for all at the larger size.

The only risk of this is that you have some spoke showing through the nipple but I dont think 4 mm is enough to achieve this
You could of course go 268 and get 12 mm nipples for the front and 14 mm for the rear ?

IMHO , for a first build, I would get the correct spokes as it will make tensioning easier- ie 5 turns each side will give the same tension - if the spoke is 4 mm to long then its a lot more about actual feel rather than simply turning the key the same number of times - a grossly simplified explanation but you get the gist

4mm too long will be poking through the nipple and (possibly) bottoming out on the threads.

I'd just get 268 and 270.
And hope the rims ERD is as published.

nosedive - Member

Crc do comp spokes in packets of 18.

Nobody does the Comp Race in smaller packs though, that I've found.

You'll have some spare spokes then.

😉

Sapim D-light looks a comparable spoke ([s]a smidge lighter[/s]) - available "per spoke" from Just Riding Along:
http://www.justridingalong.com/wheel-parts/spokes/sapim-d-light.html

edit: actually not lighter, but very close. Sapim use 64 x 260mm spokes for weight (307g) vs DT using 64 x 264mm (312g)

You could use Sapim D-Light? Very similar spec- I've used them on my last few builds. They have been entirely fine.

[url= http://www.justridingalong.com/wheel-parts/spokes/sapim-d-light.html ]link[/url]

edit- beaten to it! That's what you get for getting distracted halfway through

The other nice thing about the d-light is the butting starts at the bottom of the thread so I know they won't bottom out. I like sapim polyax nipples as well.

You'll prob be alright with 270 because:

A) at most you'll only be 1.5mm off
B) in my experience the stated ERD is never that accurate anyway, so don't get too worked up about getting exactly the right spoke length! 🙂

I'd go 270 BUT I would definitely measure the ERD of the actual rim yourself as 1 or 2 mm out on that and you will have difficult spokes if you are already making a slight compromise before further error. I've tried using one length of spoke before and wouldn't do it again, it works but it's much easier/quicker to get the dish on the right track with different lengths.

Having used DT, Sapim and ACI, my favourite to build with are ACI

Northwind

While I'm sure that I could build a wheel why bother when Graeme at Happy Trails (search Facebook) in Galashiels does a great job for not a lot and will supply the (correct length) spokes.

I just fancy doing it myself for once tbh. Usually I get Steve at Icycles to do it but it's now literally the one job on bikes I don't do. Also while it's a weird shaped rim I figure the fatbike should have an easier time of it than the #dandysled

Cheers for all the feedback folks, some great stuff there. I don't usually trust a spoke calculator but I'm hoping with this being DT's internal one maybe it's better than usual... mayb...

I've used Roger Musson's calculator recently, based on real world measurements, but I've used the DT one before using its built in library with no problems at all. With the length, I'd always get as close to required length as possible, so I tend to go to the nearest 2mm step if that's the option - which also means I tend to go to people who do per spoke rather than by the box. I've had spokes cut and threaded before for particularly hard to find sizes, but that's on smaller wheels (kids bikes) where it becomes a bit more critical/fiddly.

I think I've created an unneccesary problem there by deciding on the Comp Races, they're pretty new and I don't think have really caught on, not sexeh enough. So once I stop pissing about with that it all gets simpler!

Let me know how you get on - very interested in your progress. I've only built three wheels (no it wasn't a trickle) and the spoke offset of these rims And the dish needed have confused the crap out of me. Two local wheel builders have declined to do it but think i have found one in Larbert, but considering giving it a go. Same rim but El Guapo 170 hub.