If you put them big/small and made the bars in line with the top tube front wheel off you works get even more per metre?
Maybe - I've got a mix of hooks up there and tbh i'm not that short on space now! Once I move the coat rack there's loads of space. The unichannel is 3m and extends in front of the door so I have manouverability space.
If moving bikes around frequently is something that you want then this is a great solution, my mates a spark and suggested using m8 threaded hooks and 'zebs' https://directchannel.uk.com/product/m8-plain-channel-nuts-galvanized-box-of-100/ and washers. Ghetto but cheaper than this already relatively cheap solution
We have a Stashed system in our garage (10 bikes take up a lot of floor space!) which is really good. I think they take up about 50% of the footprint now. It wasn’t cheap, but I’m lazy and just wanted to buy something that worked.
The only annoyance is when you push them all together to create space, it’s always the bike you want with its bars the other way round & you have to pull them all apart to get to it, and of course something is now occupying the space you need to slide them in to…
the garage ceiling is far to high
This is one of the reasons unistrut and allthread is so versatile. Standard installation practise is all-thread to support the unistrut from high ceilings, its actually pretty rare to see it attached directly to the ceiling. Where you want to remove any wobble, L brackets and shorter lengths of unistrut are used to brace it off a nearby wall and/or hang it instead of using all-thread, but once you've got a few bikes on there I think they will hold it pretty steady whilst you hook another on. You could also fix the strut to both end walls and then the all-thread in the middle would purely be to add support in the middle.
I have just completed my sliding rail system using this
https://www.runners-uk.com/series-20-2m-galvanized-steel-top-track/
and these
and these
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0C1SF3D59?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
Total cost c. £150 for 4m with 10 hooks.
I can hang 9 bikes (mixture of flat and curly bars) all by their front wheels in 2.6m with 1m spare to shuffle them along the track.
I had to cut down the hooks and drill a new hole at 90 degrees to the existing pre drilled holes. A single M6 bolt fixes the hook to the hanger. There is plenty of wiggle room without the hook needing to swivel.
I suspended the rail from a newly built shelf which provides useful storage above and lowers the bikes down to just hovering above floor level. Unfortunately my calculations were based on my Dawes Galaxy being my longest bike, however my Longitude with a mudhugger just kisses the floor with the end of the hugger, but they all slide very easily. I haven't experimented with hanging any bikes from the back wheel yet.
As has been stated in other posts the 10th hook is looking lonely and desperately seeking a load!
Pics?
got plenty. No idea how to post
Postimages.org then hotlink for forums, paste in here.
oh grrr. I'd left this tab open. Came back, typed up my post, submitted, then got this - with no sign of what I just submitted. How very helpful
anyway, I've got a meeting now, I'll come back later and repost what I tried to post
Right, another go. I'm intending to fit this over the holidays. I've ordered my sliding hooks from rak.bike only to find that not only do I vaguely know the chap who runs it, I work with this brother. I digress though. I've order the channel strut from ebay.
How do I correctly caulculate the size of screws I need to use to mount the strut? It'll be fitted in the garage which was built as an extension. The ceiling is fireboard (fireproof plasterboard) but thanks to some dodgy plasterwork over the fixings, I have a nice line showing me where the joists seem to run
They seem to be spaced every 23 cm, more or less. The strut will be fitted behind where I took the photo, parallel to that line. One end will butt up against the khaki painted wall. I was thinking of just screwing into each joist using M8*120mm flat head screws if I can find some - or do I need bigger? Or is that size overkill? So I need fewer screws if bigger / more if smaller?
The local hardware shop has these
Not sure if the heads on those might be too big, been looking for the "waffle head" scres that the OP suggested but without much luck, amazon has a few at M6 but none at M8 or M10.
Anyway, suggestions / feedback welcome please. What size screws and where from?
@nbt I'd be searching for coach screws. Available in lots of large sizes and easier to sink thank a screwdriver
@5lab cheers but the op mentioned how the larger heads on coach bolts foul the runners on the hooks
how much depth does this kind of solution take from a room? I'm guessing its similar to the stashed solution - trying to work out if there's space in a 3m wide garage with kitchen units down the opposite wall - the stashed system says it should be 700mm from the wall, and if you're alternating bikes you're going to end up losing approx 1.5m from the wall - sound about right?
whilst browsing on ebay I found these guys
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/175443858747
no experience, they're a sliding wardrobe company, but it looks like thier hooks offer turning as well as pushing. No bumpers (unlike the stashed system) - a lower weight limit of 40kg too
@nbt I just found these whilst thinking about the same problem. Might be the right thing for you?
https://www.screwfix.com/c/screws-nails-fixings/woodscrews/cat840066?headtype=wafer
how much depth does this kind of solution take from a room?
How high are your bars? About what much room, assuming you hang bikes reasonably close to the wall
Having done some sums I've gone for 12*3" woodscrews with M8*25mm washers to hold them in place
Like this, but from the hardware shop in the village so cost me about a tenner
https://www.screwfix.com/p/quicksilver-pz-double-countersunk-woodscrews-12ga-x-3-100-pack/15055
I'll be trying to fit the channel strut over the weekend. I think the hardest part might be holding it in place while I get the screws fitted - I can't just strap it to a handy joist. I'll work something out.
whilst browsing on ebay I found these guys
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/175443858747
/blockquote>
3m * 6 hooks works out at £216.29 from themI got a 3m length of channel strut delivered for £30 off Ebay, and 6 regular hooks plus 2 heavy duty hooks from rak.bike cost me £87.14 after the multi-buy discount.
I got a 3m length of channel strut delivered for £30 off Ebay, and 6 regular hooks plus 2 heavy duty hooks from rak.bike cost me £87.14 after the multi-buy discount.
I think the difference is the wardrobe people let you spin the bikes around, if that's something you might find useful.
I think the difference is the wardrobe people let you spin the bikes around, if that’s something you might find usefu
Useful, but not £100+ price difference useful
been looking for the “waffle head” scres that the OP suggested but without much luck, amazon has a few at M6 but none at M8 or M10
They're listed as Wafer head on Amazon.
[url= https://i.postimg.cc/cJ6m8hTr/Screenshot-20241221-131525.pn g" target="_blank">https://i.postimg.cc/cJ6m8hTr/Screenshot-20241221-131525.pn g"/> [/img][/url]
I have a nice line showing me where the joists seem to run
They seem to be spaced every 23 cm, more or less. The strut will be fitted behind where I took the photo, parallel to that line.
If I'd thought it through I'd have realised earlier that the line runs along s single joist, not across several. I got my directions mixed up
You're looking for structural wood screws.
They really don't need to be very long at all.
A couple of inches into the joist/rafter is all you need
https://www.strongtie.co.uk/en-UK/products/structural-wood-screw-sdw
https://tradefixdirect.com/c/nails-screws-fixings/screws/structural-timber-screws/
I wish I'd known that at the start...
Likewise. I used 3" screws and even after drilling pilot holes, my 12v drill wasn't strong enough, i had to borrow an 18v drill from a neighbour. I tried my corded drill but Christ it's so heavy my arms would have dropped off.
I did mount on the joist but it was quite a way away from the wall. Ended up using battens between the joists to get the strut in the right place. Even now i think i can move it another few cm closer but I'll leave it for the moment. I've got some of the bikes up there but not all: i need to move the wardrobe out of the way before i add an mtb, a road bike and a tandem. I might also change some of the small hooks for bigger ones, as i struggled to get the bigger mtb tyres in the smaller hooks
@5lab
I got a 3m length of channel strut delivered for £30 off Ebay, and 6 regular hooks plus 2 heavy duty hooks from rak.bike cost me £87.14 after the multi-buy discount.
I think the difference is the wardrobe people let you spin the bikes around, if that’s something you might find useful.
isnt that eBay link the same as this ? Which gets referred to in most of the sliding rail storage threads https://www.bullerltd.co.uk/sliding-bike-storage-rack-track-with-hooks-en.html?variation_id=7937
in which case it definitely doesn’t allow the bikes to be spun round. Be great if it did.
Good job nbt.
Your roof must be a bit higher than mine. There's no way I'd get a tandem on.
I used an impact wrench for driving the screws in.
isnt that eBay link the same as this?
No. Those guys work out more expensive but they do put it together in a package for you - saving you the hassle.
Their spare hooks are more costly too.
isnt that eBay link the same as this
yes I’d quoted the original. I got my strut here
how well do the hooks roll over the channel joins? I think I'd need more than 3m of track, seems like its possible (but expensive) to buy 4/6m lengths of track but they're more expensive/awkward for delivery
No joins in mine, but we use similar stuff in the theatre for the curtain sweep tracks and as long as it's well fitted you really won't notice the join at all
how well do the hooks roll over the channel joins? I think I’d need more than 3m of track, seems like its possible (but expensive) to buy 4/6m lengths of track but they’re more expensive/awkward for delivery
When I joined two bits of trak together & ran a hook along it to test it was super smooth.
However, when I put it up & ran a bike along - it got stuck. The extra weight & the fact the hook gets tilted along with the profiles of the two bits of trak not quite lining up caused this. I took off the external joiner, hammered & levered the Trak until the bits lined up better then bolted the joiner back on being careful to keep it all lined up. Worked fine.
My link in the original post shows where I bought my Trak. Postage was £9. I bought a 3m bit & a 80cm bit but they did several different lengths. Got all the joining bits & end stops too. Very cheap.
A picture paints a thousand words, but i dont know how to post them....
I've just installed a Buller rail, 3m with 8 hooks. I've then purchased an additional hook and used 6 hanging bolted brackets. Installation was easy, it works well and is solid so it does what I need. One of the criticisms of these cheaper rails is that the hooks can freely rotate but it's possible with the Buller hooks to adjust the bolts so they rub slightly and don't spin so easily. It means they don't spin when knocked with a front wheel but still turn fine with a bike attached.
I think in total I paid under £300
Goes out to garage, measures tandems, looks like this may be a solution to my mounting bicycle problem, especially as I've another motorbike arriving tomorrow...
Anyone got a clover option for a freestanding setup?
Anyone got a clover option for a freestanding setup?
You could probably build a supporting frame out of unistrut, a bit like one of those clothes rails on wheels 🤔
Anyone got a clover option for a freestanding setup?
Stashed have just launched one - but it's £800....
https://www.pinkbike.com/news/stasheds-freestanding-spacerail-system-core-bike-2025.html
Yeh the £800 one is what I saw and thought it looked great apart from the price. Might have to have a poke about in the roof and see what I've got above the plaster that I could drill straight into...
Might have to have a poke about in the roof and see what I've got above the plaster that I could drill straight into
You'll have joists / rafters that will be fine to use - if you can go straight into them the perfect but if not then you can always run battens between joists and hang your rack from the battens, as per my setup above
Thanks op. Copied your original recommendations with a slightly smaller setup. 8 bike with heavy duty hooks on 3m rail and could easily fit another 4 on. I’ve been after something better than what I had for ages and this is definitely it.
Also, because most bikes have different amounts of travel and geometry there are very few clashes of bars etc. Awesome solution!
How far from the wall have people installed the rail, both at the side and end? I'm thinking about installing a Unistrut based system, utilising the full 3m length. It would have to go onto the ceiling soon after delivery as I don't have space to keep 3m of something lying around. Hence doing some forward planning
So I bought the Decathlon one and then regretted it! Its actually a really good, very simple to fit set up, but I just don;t really have enough height in my garage and I'd have been better off with the rak.bike system off ebay. Its totally my fault as I rushed it and didn't think how much space between the rail and ceiling I would need for the rollers, and I then forgot about the roof timber as well.... Obvs with the unistrut system it doesn't need any space above. Saying all that, I'd have had to fit it to brackets as I don't have a solid ceiling and not sure if the rail would be strong enough between brackets...
Any way, couple of photos of my set up now. I have my road bike at the end hung off the rear wheel, then my hardtail hung off the front wheel, this is where the height is an issue as it literaly only just fits with the rear wheel on the ground. Then I have 2 enduro mtbs that are hung from the rear wheels because I neve put the front wheels on when at home, as they go in the van on fork mounts attached to a peice of wood. This means I can rotate the bars to give easier clearance for my daughters bike between them and means she can get it out.
I then have 2 other bikes hung from S hooks on a scaffold pole at the other end of the garage. I used to have a few bukes hung from saddles on the scaffold pole and other under them in a floor bike rack thing, but that just meant I couldn't get to anything....
Those of you using these strut chanel hooks, how are they in real long term use?
I was going to buy some gear_blocks hooks and mount 14' of channel in my 16'x7' shed but with them being so moveable, are you seeing issues with bikes swinging together (two teenage boys) when moving bikes aside to get the current flavor down?
I wonder if - whilst more expensive - the velocirax tilt and turn might be a little better at keeping bikes separated whilet moving them for access.
Any input welcome?
Thanks
I've been considering the Decathlon one too. How far out does the rail sit from the wall? The don't give any depth measurements.
@bearback there's always the opportunity to damage bikes if you're storing them close together. The closer you store them, the more likely you are to have interference. You need to be a bit careful moving them but I also cover stanchions with pipe lagging and you can buy pedal covers, those two steps mean the most delicate and damaging parts are protected.
How far from the wall have people installed the rail, both at the side and end? I'm thinking about installing a Unistrut based system, utilising the full 3m length. It would have to go onto the ceiling soon after delivery as I don't have space to keep 3m of something lying around. Hence doing some forward planning
Mine more or less butts up the wall at one end, there's a slight gap where I can get a roller in and out but in practice that doesn;t happen.
It's fitted 41cm out from the wall - I didn;t measure it, just guessed. I started a LOT further out (like 60cm+) along the joist, but that was too far, so fitted battens between joists and used that. I could go closer in but then you start to get issues of the wheel hitting the wall while you get it into the hook. This way the bikes rotate and the back wheels end up on the wall - makes it a little easier to slide bikes along too, I suppose.
are you seeing issues with bikes swinging together (two teenage boys) when moving bikes aside to get the current flavor down?
I've worked out a sequence which gives me pretty good clearance on the various handlebars, though I'll need to revisit that at some point - 2 MTBS at the far end have the bars rotated at 90 degrees, but then again one of those is being sold. Might be selling a drop bar bike too which will free up a little more space still. It means there's plenty of space to move bikes along and clear (a little) space to get something out, but I still take care when I'm moving bikes to avoid crashing them into each other
