[Closed] So. How does one get THIS out?

I clamped the cup in a vice and swung the frame around until it had dropped out enough to get the proper tool (big screwdriver) on the top of the cup and hammer it.

Vice jaws wrecked the cup, though 🙁

I'll rephrase:

How is it done properly? 🙂

i's give on one a call

I'd get my fingernail just above the cup, and give it a quick tug.....

DrP

Hammer and punch from the top, same procedure as every other headset cup i remove, tap it gently all the way round and make sure the cup comes out square to the headtube - simples!

[i]How is it done properly?[/i]

This was the technique brant recommended...

Can you not get something on the protruding outside cup?

Hammer and punch from the top

Can't be done! Read the OP!

This was the technique brant recommended...

Is it butted against the shoulder in the tube? or is there a small space between the two? if there is i'd use a collet on a slide hammer

I think whatever you do is going to cause some damage to the headset. Is there much gap between the top of the headset and the flange?

What about a cold chisel with a beaten lip on the top? You'd need an extra hand or 2, though.

[img] [/img]

[i]Is it butted against the shoulder in the tube?[/i]

yep, literally it's like the headtube doesn't have any join between it and the cup - it's a smooth surface top to bottom to all intents and purposes. Pain in the butt.

It looks like there is a ridge where the lower bearing sits relative to the headset cup but if it's machined parallel with the bearing then i guess not - my mistake, In that case i'd use a brass head pin punch (very small relatively soft head) and tap round the outside of the cup where it butts against the carbon headtube till it pops out but i guess not everyone has access to a workshop or equipment like i have lying around.

Or wrap the headset cup in an old innertube and place in a vice and twist gently.

if there is i'd use a collet on a slide hammer

That's more like it. What's one of those?

Anyone can bodge. I want to know what tool does this properly.

Is it a small? Sure I read something about this on here before- I wasn't looking forward to removing mine but it turned out to be easy, on a medium.

I'd not be optimistic about getting it out by working on the outside with a punch- mine was pretty stubborn even wailing on it with the standard approach (old motorbike axle and coarse grade hammer)

TBF, I'd be having a nice chat with On One about destructive methods and free replacements

For this kind of job ive machined up a special punch with a dog leg in it, works every time.
Infact was doing a similar job today.

Maybe the frame isn't designed to last any longer than the headset?

can you get a strap wrench on the cup ? and wiggle it out

Rubber jaws on the vice - take the cup out with the bearing in situ to stop the cup getting crushed. Job done - properly.

Once you've got the cup out (no idea on the front sorry!)
Would it be feasible to file the flange in two places opposite each other down to the ID of the head tube, wide enough so you could fit a punch to gently tap the cup out next time? Or are we talking sudden unexpected death when the HT explodes sending barbed carbon shards straight into your heart?

PP - SSC had a set in the sale but that is bigger than the collets in the set iirc. Car sized set maybe?

Grease....on carbon

Might be stuck for ever ;).

bigyinn - rubber sniffer

Once you've got the cup out (no idea on the front sorry!)
Would it be feasible to file the flange in two places opposite each other down to the ID of the head tube, wide enough so you could fit a punch to gently tap the cup out next time?

Could do. Personally, I'd just turn the cup down a little, it's got a very deep insert.

Or alternatively, find out what On One are going to do about it.

Trail rat - ally inserts mate! 8)

Or alternatively, find out what On One are going to do about it.

Diddly squat I imagine like every other design issue that they have been made aware of

Maybe the frame isn't designed to last any longer than the headset?

Here's the rub: Bottom bearing has lasted 2 years. Not bad for me to be fair. I emailed them asking what size the bearing was so I could replace it
No answer
So I googled and apparently the always ignore this question. (Thread on another forum about it)
So they obviously want their customers to fork out an another header for £40
Another headset which is a pain I the arse to fit.

As luck would have it I do t take no for an answer and found out that Superstar bearings are the same. So I bought one of those and chanced it. They do fit.
This is the third major design flaw I've found in my 2 On One frames.
Yes, they're cheap. This is why.

Next time I'll get a Specialized. Their bikes are worth the money.

Maybe the frame isn't designed to last any longer than the headset?

no way, the chain suck will never kill your frame in 6 rides

I knocked mine out in the standard way, there was just enough lip on the bearing seat to get into - with an old seatpost as the punch (bigger diameter) - yours looks the same. Once I'd moved it enough i switched to the outside. Put a slackset in, there's loads of material around the 1 1/8th bearing!

How about using a 3 leg puller? Drop a suitably sized socket inside so it sits on the shoulder, then 3 leg bearing puller around the headset, and the centre pushy bit can push against the socket?

A bearing separator maybe?

[img] [/img]

an old seatpost as the punch (bigger diameter)

Cheers, I'll keep that in mind. That's probably the best bodge so far! 🙂

How about using a 3 leg puller

Also good 🙂

Pete, managed to drift mine out using an old chisel. There is a space above the bearing to get the headset out. If you want the bearing out, I just shoved a screwdriver behind the race in a couple of places and it pinged out. I bought a set of bearings from Mr Torchy off ebay. Weirdly his upper race has 2 seals rather than one and an open face in the on One ones. It will do until I swop for a Hope at some point.

I'll keep that in mind. That's probably the best bodge so far!

I was quite pleased with it myself, the shallow curvature was just enough to get purchase. It was a titec xwing so had a nice flat top for the mallet too! Rides nicer with a slackset.....

I have a very small on of these [url= http://www.powertoolsdirect.com/faithfull-bearing-puller-75-100-150-200mm ]Bearing puller[/url] that sits up inside and gives just enough purchase on the yop edge of the race that that I can then tap the central spindle down thus knocking bearing race out.
Not 100% correct way to use it but it works.

Yes, they're cheap. This is why.

It's not.

Ah- Brant, did you not post here about a particular tool that made short work of this, not long after you returned to On One?

It's not.

OK. Fix the problems properly and keep the price the same.

Tell me, how much R&D goes into and On One frame? (Are they ever tested long enough to need a new headset, for instance?) And why don't On One reply to emails asking about bearing sizes?

PP, firstly thanks for the cranks! Just what I needed 🙂

Secondly, you need one of these: -

[img] [/img]

It's what I use and is superb for removing all manner of difficult bike related stuck things.

A local bearing supplier got mine for me but I nicked the pic from here: -

[url= http://www.samstagsales.com/kukko.htm ]Kukko Bearing Puller[/url]

Reasonable headset destroyed by shonky bearings.

[quote=brant ]Yes, they're cheap. This is why.
It's not.
That's a useful response. Not as useful as one explaining how best to remove the headset cup, but we live in hope.....

A headset is only as good as it's bearings. Headset cups don't tend to fail, do they?

A headset is only as good as it's bearings. Headset cups don't tend to fail, do they?

A headset is only as good as it's bearings.

And its sealing qualities

Yes, they're cheap. This is why.
It's not.

It is it your business model pretty much.
not dissing it as i do partake when appropriately priced for what it is[ Tyres for example :wink:]

I had the same issue trying to take headset out of my 2010 Orange 5 frame, so nothing to do with On One in my opinion. I gave a shop £15 to take it out for me which they did with no problem because it was really not worth worrying about

Had the same problem with my 456 (not headset failure - needed to change for fork change). Luckily I'm a machinist so managed to turn a tool to go down the headtube with a small lip to catch the top of the cup. Took a while to knock it out, going gently all round the cup, but got there in the end.
I've still got the tool and used it on many other headsets..

I've just spoke to a shortarse mate who owns one of these frames (so it's a small) and asked him if he's removed his headset, if so how?., There's enough of a lip on the upper bearing seat to get a decent quality punch onto, a few taps on this in at the 3/6/9/12 o'clock positions and there was enough room to get a chisel punch on the outer face that butts against the frame - tap-tap and it popped out, i guess it depends if you've got the correct tools or not.

That's a useful response. Not as useful as one explaining how best to remove the headset cup, but we live in hope.....

How dare you druidh, are you looking to join TJ. To be honest I am very surprised that the designer of the frame came on this thread without a hint of help. But I am sure I'll be proven wrong very soon.

TBF, I don't think brant actually designed the c456. Wasn't that done while he was off doing Ragley?

I don't think brant/on one design anything.

Designing takes more than thumbing through a Taiwanese factories catalogue and pronouncing "dat one".

sterling effort on the trolling peteimpreza...if only you had a shred of evidence (and brains for that matter) to back up your bogus and obscure claims. What on-one does is the same as Cotic, but without the brand name tubing, custom butted tube profiles, small parts milling, ect. that drive the cost of a frame up. They offer affordable frames with well thought out geometry (not catalog frames with 90's era angles) for people without deep pockets. It's not hard to understand if you have the IQ and maturity level above that of a three year old child.

Now run along and go hide under that bridge you came from.

I don't mind damaging the cup as I will be replacing the headset but how best to remove it without damaging the frame?

The proper way to remove a bearing cup like this would be to use a blind bearing puller (like the one Konastoner pictured) and a slide hammer. Here's a video how:

Looking at your pics though I suspect you might have some fun as the bearing puller may not be able to force its way in between the frame flange and the top of the cup. You may well find it slipping. If this happens then you may need to start on the outside of the frame. Tapping a small pen knife blade between the joint of the frame and the cup. Work slowly round the head tube, little by little. You should get enough of a gap to the use the bearing puller. This method works on metal frames. However, I've never tried it with a carbon frame......!

Put it in a vice.
It's an unfortunate combination of cup and insert.
A vice will kill the cup of course but I guess you don't mind as that's why you're removing it.
It's certainly a dimension and issue that has been noted for future development.

Bikeshop. I wouldnt trust my usual seatpost/hammer mechanics.

If using the vice method I would use a dollop of wood/doweling or alloy round bar inserted into bearing housing to get a better purchase and help prevent cup deformation which may cause damage to fragile carbon 💡

All this started because the OP needed to replace the bearings which can easily and cheaply be done without touching the cups as he later worked out. It sounds like it's not an uncommon issue for a few frames but the solution is the same, stick in vice and remove. New headsets are £30/£40 so not really seeing the problem here...unless you needed to remove a CK headset.

It is possible to get it out without wrecking the headset cup but as brant said, you'd pretty much only take it out if you were binning it. Good job the Ali sleeve is well glued in!

Thanks to everyone for the sensible replies.
It's clear On One just stick their heads in the sand and ignore stuff like this and are only interested in selling complete headsets. Thankfully Superstar have better service than that and actually supply spares.

To be honest I like On One bikes. I really do. But sadly I've bought my last one. The poor design faults that just me and my brother have dug up on a small sample of 6 frames between us just isn't acceptable

Its a pity as the bikes ride brilliantly, but I just can't be bothered spending time and money sorting out the faults any more.

🙁

They offer affordable frames with well thought out geometry

Now who is trolling...

well not you, that's for sure. 🙄

if there is i'd use a collet on a slide hammer

That's more like it. What's one of those?

Anyone can bodge. I want to know what tool does this properly.

that would be a blind bearing puller.

sorry, don't really get the issue here. you found alternative bearings ( we'll leave aside the 'superstar give better service than on-one comment' and the ensuing octopron). you wanted to replace the bearing, you found replacements, you fitted them. i've never found it necessary to replace the cup to replace the bearing, so if you want to change out the headset complete, you destroy the cup in the process, or you find a bodge to get it out. WGAS at that point?

Why did this have to come down to slating the construction of a frame/being arsey towards the company owner on a public forum knowing too well that he'll read it when the job at hand is simple?

It's possible to use the correct tool for the job along with another tool* in quite a few alloy and carbon frames with this step in it. It makes it so easy.

Others have mentioned two other ways above but why not take it to a flippin bike shop if it's causing grief?

*and I'm not referring to a hammer,either.

To be honest I like On One bikes. I really do. But sadly I've bought my last one.

Del - Member

if you want to change out the headset complete, you destroy the cup in the process, or you find a bodge to get it out. WGAS at that point?

I replaced my Smoothie headset with a Works Components one to slacken the bike off (something On One re-sell too). If it hadn't worked out, I'd have wanted to refit the original headset. So I'd have GAS if I'd had to destroy the headset.

Like I mentioned up the page, I reckon it'd be reasonable to expect On One to replace the bottom cup under the circumstances. And tbh I reckon it's also reasonable that they should put the compatibility issue on the website, since they still seem to be selling both parts.

I reckon it'd be reasonable to expect On One

You do know they are yorkshire based don't you ;)?

My smoothie has lasted a year, still ok.
I was lucky to find a thread and link to superstar for compatible bearing.
Think bearings are classed as consumable parts.
Some good some not so good. Think Ive been lucky. Mind you I think using a mucky nutz and low pressure water to clean may be key.

PP rather than use the On One solution.....

I used a v large hose clip just fixed it on as tight as possible....

tapped it on one side rrepositioned on other side and repeat... bit of a faff but better than destroying the cup...

Just had a go at this and it came out easy (cup and bearing) with a standard Park headset remover - there's just enough of a lip above where the bearing sits to get some purchase - not at the top of the cup itself as the sleeve gets in the way

Ressurect- I need to remove a Hope headset cup from the bottom- is the Hope removal easy (i.e. old seatpost/hammer job?)