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Snapped my RoadRat
 

[Closed] Snapped my RoadRat

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[#8359938]

I thught the bottom bracket was a bit noisy on the way home!
Came to swap it out turns out i have snapped the chainstay.

I'm gutted to say the least. I've had it over 10 years, done 10's of thousands of miles on it, it's my daily commuter and i feel very attached to it.

Question is - can it be fixed and a) is it worth it - how much would a repair be compared to a new frame?

[img] [/img]


 
Posted : 22/02/2017 10:10 pm
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Can't comment on the frame but holy shit look at the state of that back wheel !!! 😯


 
Posted : 22/02/2017 10:12 pm
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Looks like a sticker to me.


 
Posted : 22/02/2017 10:13 pm
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Of course it can be fixed. Any frame builder can do it. The question is how much is it worth to you? I've fixed a cheap frame twice because I like it, but it's nothing to do with being economical. (But it is cheaper than a new frame)


 
Posted : 22/02/2017 10:16 pm
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I too would wear gloves to touch that tyre.


 
Posted : 22/02/2017 10:17 pm
 sb88
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Since it's the back end it's less terrifying than the main triangle I reckon. Have a donor patch welded on? Preferably by someone who knows bikes and can weld thin tubing, so will make it functional, but maybe not a full on framebuilder who will want to make it look good or might be reluctant. Won't look pretty, but it doesn't look pretty now either. I can suggest somewhere in Sheffield if you're near?


 
Posted : 22/02/2017 10:25 pm
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Well you can now go belt drive which might cope better with your bike cleaning routine 😀


 
Posted : 22/02/2017 10:26 pm
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A new road rat is £349 for frame and forks. Disc only though, which is only a problem if you run rim brakes.

If a new one works for you then I'd hang your frame on the wall with the knowledge that you loved it that much you've worn it out.


 
Posted : 22/02/2017 10:29 pm
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I don't think the OP has disc brakes looking at that wheel!


 
Posted : 22/02/2017 10:30 pm
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FiberFix it!


 
Posted : 22/02/2017 10:36 pm
 nuke
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Meh, doesn't owe you anything nor you it...wall/shed 'art' & a nice new shiny frame imo


 
Posted : 22/02/2017 10:43 pm
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My wheels look like that, it's called commuting


 
Posted : 22/02/2017 10:54 pm
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Yep, I'd say that's pretty clean for a commuter. Mine would build up that grime after a week. Give it a rinse only when there's so much caked up mud that it catches on the mudguards.

In terms of the frame, I would have thought it'd be cheap and easy to fix. I had a soul with similar problem fixed and it was good as new. You could treat it to a new paint job too and it'd be well under the cost of a new frame.


 
Posted : 22/02/2017 11:09 pm
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Commuter bikes take such a beasting! Shame a steel frame didn't last a bit longer though.

I would think about a new frame, the Roadrat has been updated a little so that is good. Otherwise I would be wondering which tube is going to go next! 🙂


 
Posted : 22/02/2017 11:18 pm
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I thought thats how bikes that get ridden in winter are supposed to look. Some mud will wash off and be replaced with a fresh coat next properly wet ride.


 
Posted : 23/02/2017 12:09 am
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Get an ugly as hell steel patch welded on that, quick coat of primer and carry on riding.

Proper order...


 
Posted : 23/02/2017 12:39 am
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Haha, thanks for the replies. It gets a hose down once a week, it gets covered in cack every single day so I'd be forever cleaning it otherwise.
I admit it has taken a beating and owes me nothing.
Anyone any ideas of a ballpark figure to get it repaired? I guess if it's £350 for a new one it's going to have to be pretty cheap repair to make it worthwhile.


 
Posted : 23/02/2017 8:08 am
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check with Ben at Kinetics? £105 for a new chainstay according to his website
http://www.kinetics-online.co.uk/framebuilding/frame-repairs-modifications/


 
Posted : 23/02/2017 8:17 am
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Cheers TJ, not too bad although I'd have to factor in paint and couriers....


 
Posted : 23/02/2017 8:27 am
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Depends why it failed. If it corroded out (possible given its use) then not worth fixing as its likely that other areas of the frame will be close to the end of their life too. If it cracked due to wear from the tyre or a fault in the material and fatigue then yeah a new chainstay will be cost effective.


 
Posted : 23/02/2017 8:48 am
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I have one of a similar vintage, think I'll go check it 🙂

And my wheels look like that most of the time too!


 
Posted : 23/02/2017 9:11 am
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or simply sleeve it - that would be much cheaper and who cares what a commuter looks like?


 
Posted : 23/02/2017 9:12 am
 ctk
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£200ish including new powdercoat/decals.

Can you tell why chainstay has failed? Is it rust? If so then its possible other bits will follow.


 
Posted : 23/02/2017 9:21 am
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andyl - Member

I don't think the OP has disc brakes looking at that wheel!

Posted 11 hours ago # Report-Post

I think the OP does have disc brakes looking at that wheel given the light coating of dust* on what would be the rim braking surface 😉

*may actually be really thick with mud


 
Posted : 23/02/2017 10:10 am
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A crack appeared a while back, I didn't actually think it was a crack but obviously with hindsight it clearly was.
Doesn't appear to be any rust, probably stress, I have a rack and panniers although I'm fairly light I'd have thought I wouldn't be too much of a burden.


 
Posted : 23/02/2017 10:17 am
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And yes I have disks! Wombat has it, obviously the rim would be clean otherwise 🙂


 
Posted : 23/02/2017 10:18 am
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Hi,

I would check Tim Leicester from Sword Cycles.

He is based in Ashbourne.

Friend of mine had his vintage Yeti mended in same place and paid some really reasonable money. Below hundred quid as I remember.

I've been very impressed with Tim's work. Hi got me touring forks built for 120quid including good quality powder coating.

Cheers!
I.


 
Posted : 23/02/2017 10:34 am
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Driveside chainstay subject to large frequent cyclic loads due to compressive force from chain drive. Suspect crack will have propagated from a dimple for tyre or chainring clearance?


 
Posted : 23/02/2017 10:38 am
 core
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I'd just find someone who welds car bodywork or similar, they'll know how to weld thin steel, I'd probably shove something inside it to give it some strength, weld the straight joint then make a plate/gusset to go over it and weld that on too, paint it with a rattle can, forget about it.


 
Posted : 23/02/2017 10:49 am
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Perhaps I should ask Chipps to fix it? He's been on a frame building course right? 😀


 
Posted : 23/02/2017 11:02 am
 Del
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bin. and be grateful it didn't hurt you.
argos wanted over 400 quid to do a similar job on a P7 i had. they wanted to replace both chainstays...


 
Posted : 23/02/2017 11:22 am
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From the look of your profile photo, I think we both race Nutcracker veterans class (me on a home made frame).

If you are near enough in the NW then I'd braze you a sleeve or similar for a few bottles of beer. It won't trash all of the paint so could aerosol it. A full powder coat would be £30-£60 depending where and what colour. Drop me an email if you want to discuss more.


 
Posted : 23/02/2017 11:29 am
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@mick_r I do, and I may just do that cheers I'll mail you.

The good news is Cy has been kind enough to offer me a new one at a crash discount. Superb service. Bad news, no stock until April.

Should give me time to clean my wheels though! 😀


 
Posted : 23/02/2017 11:56 am
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core

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I'd just find someone who welds car bodywork or similar, they'll know how to weld thin steel

Bike tubing is too thin for MIG welding, the steel cars are made from is quite different


 
Posted : 23/02/2017 12:07 pm
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I think the OP does have disc brakes looking at that wheel given the light coating of dust* on what would be the rim braking surface

typing fail.

I meant rim brakes in response to the comment that the new frame is disc only. ie new frame being disc only is not a problem.


 
Posted : 23/02/2017 1:42 pm
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It hasn't just snapped, it's committed suicide due to lack of attention.Poor bike.


 
Posted : 23/02/2017 3:25 pm