MegaSack DRAW - This year's winner is user - rgwb
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With the new batch on the way which I'm eager to get hold of I've just come across this design for an ebb which seems like it should be up there as a conetender for next time.
The clamping force would be significatnly better. I cannot see this thing budging and there is no gouging of the internals with grub screws. In a pinch its quite elegant.
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Shame its so ugly.
That's really a variation on the traditional split way of doing it - I just made one yesterday on a tandem using two pinch bolts.
I'm really not a fan of the grub screw design so I usually do it this way.
I have the Biocentric on my Niner.
Providing I don't grease it, it works ok.
They have a new version now, not heard any reports on it...
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My OS Bikes Blackbuck has a very similar arrangement to that but with just 2 pinch bolts and I prefer it to any other setup I've tried, and I've tried a few. (Swift with the grub screws - works ok, GF Rig with wedge - always seizing up even with copius amounts of copper grease, horizontal dropouts - pain to get wheel in and out)
I've had and rated:
Fisher wedge thing - crap and slipping when it didn't seize - horrible.
Dialled bikes - EBB good but got gouged
Singular. - EBB pretty and worked well enough.
Cotic - track ends. - great and easy.
Santa Cruz - those new dropouts on the Highball are lovely and work well
Look at the clamping surface area! This is by far the best mechanical solution even if I cannot quantify it just yet.
Unfortunately it adds complexity to the manufacturing stage.
As for it looking ugly. Whilst looking at a shining, unridden example can be fun I kind of gravitate towards riding my bikes and getting them dirty.
If i remember correctly a lot of crank arms use pinch bolts as a secondary clamping.
I'm pretty sure this design could be equally well served with two pinch bolts on either side.
Sanderson Soloist.
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Looking into this a little more the humble pinch bolt has been a staple in many parts of the frame for ages.
Grip ends, stems, seat tubes.
Its proven. Its simple and very reliable.
Sam. If your listening.
Using pinch bolts you could re-sell the ebb but with grubs nobody wants a battle scared component.
I have to disagree. My swift ebb was faultless. I couldnt care less what the ebb itself looks like as its always in the frame well out of sight. Why add another level of complexity for (as I see it) absolutely zero functional or even aesthetic improvement. In fact, I think the split in the shell looks horrible.
No problems ever with the ebb on my Gryphon.
I have to disagree. My swift ebb was faultless. I couldnt care less what the ebb itself looks like as its always in the frame well out of sight. Why add another level of complexity for (as I see it) absolutely zero functional or even aesthetic improvement. In fact, I think the split in the shell looks horrible.
+1
My swifts never slipped and the Ebb only ever comes out if im changeing the bb bearings snd cleaning if while im at it. Complaining about internal marks on the BB is like moaning that headset cups mark the inside of the headtube!
Look at the clamping surface area! This is by far the best mechanical solution even if I cannot quantify it just yet.Unfortunately it adds complexity to the manufacturing stage.
The best solution is an unslotted shell and a Bushnell EBB. Excellent clamping method and a doddle to use. Split-shells like this could be good if made well, but yes seems a bit more faff to make them. The Sanderson solution looked interesting but not so easy to adjust.
I see two problems with the grub screw type. The threads are sometimes pretty short so can strip out (or the threaded nut can pull off). And the indents the grub screws make on the EBB can make it harder to rotate.
Really, all ways of doing it have pros and cons.
Grub screw EBBs are the Devil's own work, but I've never had a problem with Bushnells.
The Sanderson EBB works perfectly. The problem is the c spanner for the lock rings. You need to remove about 6mm off the ends of the "c" so the opening is wider. It then fits over the crank bearing cups of the HT2 cranks. It's then adjustable with the cranks and chain in place.
Simples.
Just to add to reports, my Swift EBB has been faultless.
The only difference between the Dialled Bikes EBB and the Singular ones is that Singular use "normal" grub screws (M8x1.25mm) whereas Dialled use very pointy set screws with M8x1mm pitch and with a 13mm hex head, which do a good job of gouging the EBB insert.
The Singular version works perfectly and just leaves shallow circular marks on the insert.
Bushnell every time.
I have that arrangement with 2 pinch bolts on my Pipedream Ti Modro and works perfectly and has done for the last 8 years.
No problems with the dialled Phil wood EB,B fit and forget and no creaking, would never have a Bushnell again, too much greasing/creaking and stripping down.
^ The EBB at fault or the BB shell, heat-distorted, not centre-relieved, not correct ID?
I've never had a problem with grub screw ebbs. Including my Swift.
No problem to report on my Swift EBB
Easy to adjust, works flawlessly. No need for anything more