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I am building up a single speed on-one 456. I am using horizontal dropouts and running 2 on-one chain tugs (one on either side).
http://on-one.co.uk/i/q/FSOOCT/on_one_chaintug
As a result a standard 135mm QR skewer is too short (I tried a an XT..)
I've had a google, ring on-one, and looked on the forums and tried CR. Anyone else got around this problem?
dont halo do a rather long one?
http://www.halorims.com/products-details.php?id=HUHAQRD
Halo Porkies
I've got some Haol Hex long skewers that do the trick, the allen key ones.
Have you tried it with 1 chain-tug? Most get away with only 1 on the drive side.
Shimano do a longer XT qr. That is what I got for the kiddy trailer bracket. 173mm length.
Shimano do a longer XT qr. That is what I got for the kiddy trailer bracket. 173mm length.
Shimano do a longer XT qr. That is what I got for the kiddy trailer bracket. 173mm length.
Wow! The power of the iPad to post multiple times.
I'm sure I read somewhere that Shimano do a longer version of the XT. Roughly 173mm in length I think 😉
I had the same problem with having chaintugs on my Whippet. I got a long XTR one which works fine and looks quite nice too. In fact I've stripped the bike and I'm getting rid so it's available if you want to make me an offer.
the chain tug on the NDS has no effect at all.
+1 for wwaswas. Given you are probably running a dished wheel with spacers, the pull is amplified on the drive side only, ergo, single chaintug is all that is required.
Makes it easier to align the rear wheel to hold it whilst you do up a QR/nut etc. I'd imagine forces applied to the NDS by brakes would be equal or more than those applied by the drivetrain anyway...
That said, I ran no tugs on my Curtis in its last build and this time around I'm only going to be running a Tugnut on the drive side. Just because STW told me to do it.
um, I think its the other way round. Braking would be a beneficial force, pulling the wheel back, while pedal stomp would want to pull the wheel in. As mentioned, the effect of the spacers on the wheel means the forces are compounded on the drive side even more.
So you need a chain tug pulling one way on one side and the other on the other?
Braking does indeed pull the wheel backwards.
I had this keep happening on the brake side when i used two chain tugs.
Every time i braked hard it would try to pull the wheel out backwards on the disc side.
I removed the brake side tug and it solved the problem.
I can only presume that all the disc side tug did was stop the qr gripping the frame propperly.
So you need a chain tug pulling one way on one side and the other on the other?
That would be the ideal answer yes.
Not sure how you could get a tug to work backwards though.
Yeah, I use 2 O-O chain tugs (cos its easier) on my Ti29er and skewer them up with the Halo XL Hex's
[url= http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=26622 ]Halo Hex XL[/url]
I even modified one of the tugs to accomodate the lug 😉
Many thanks all! Sounds like I will give it a go with one!
Failing that a friend has offered me an extra long skewer..
Tubus also make a longer skewer to accommodate fitting racks.
MSP, thanks for the info, just ordered the Tubus one to try and bodge a trailer onto my new disc Kaffenback.
APF
Not sure how you could get a tug to work backwards though.
My old Pace rc129 had slidey dropouts that worked opposite.
NDS thread to pull forwards
DS not thread so the bolt pushed away.
Though it was well thought out.