Hi,
I have a slot dropout inbred that i'm running single speed. However after each (30ish mile) ride i have to tension the chain as the slack has increased. I run the chain with a couple of cm of play. I was expecting to do this over time as the chain wears, but thought that after each ride was unusual. I don't think the wheel is moving forwards in the frame due to the chain tugs, as their tensioning bolts would have to work loose (they have some nuts to hopefully stop this). Roughly half a turn on each chain tug bolt is usually enough to tension the chain again.
Has anyone had a similar problem with their single speed?
If it helps, I'm using the on-one chain tugs on both sides, dt swiss qr, with shimano bmx freewheel, kmc 1/8" Z510 chain with on-one steel chainring.
Cheers,
Tim
Had exactly the same issue with my slot drop out inbred. Despite running with 2 chaintugs, a 1/8th KMC chain, a WI screw on freewheel and a SS specific chainring I'd have to re-tension every ride.
Eventually The rear triangle would start pulling out of line every few rides and I'd have to straighten it cos I'd lose the chainline.
In the end I swapped everything over to a Cotic Simple and have had no issues at all.
Comparing both frames the Inbred seemed a hell of a lot more flexi than the Cotic, neither had a Chainstay bridge but the indents on the chainstays were far deeper on the inbred - giving a smaller cross section. You could see this was where the frame was flexing from. There was never any chain suck on that frame to explain that.
Not sure what this tells you but swapping for the Cotic was the only variable I hadn't changed until the end and the only one that cured the problem. I'd tried different chaintugs, chains, chainrings.
I have an old slot end inbred and the On one chain tugs were pretty crap, replaced with surly ones, I also only use a shimano qr no problems since
The first thing that jumps out to me is the QR - any good reason not to get some rock solid bolts on there instead of running a QR? It's got to be worth a go - I have never had that issue on a similar setup with bolts and no chaintugs at all.
Swap to a solid nutted axle.
I used a DMR revolver rear hub with the Allen screws. Still needed 2 chain tugs and cleaned the paint off the dropouts and centre punched the faces of the dropouts to give some grip to the collars. Chain still kept going loose.
Thanks, sounds from most like the wheel is moving in the frame. Although the tug tension bolts remain right. I'm going to take some measurements before and after next ride to be sure. Hopefully it is not due to frame pulling out of alignment.
scrape the paint away. Mine was so thuckly coated the teetth on the qr weren't biting into anything solid.