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http://www.pinkbike.com/news/nove-mesto-xc-world-cup-day-one-in-the-pits.html
maybe some ideas here?
Going 26" will also reduce weight...650b and 29" are going to add weight so you need to decide if overall weight is more important than the perceived gains of larger wheels...
The lightest my 20" 456Ti got to was 22lbs (c/w pedals), it's now at 26.5lbs with a dropper.
Why has it gained so much weight? Because I've gone from living in the Home Counties to the Scottish Borders and have pretty much destroyed all the lighter components over the last 6 years...
The only things left on it from build day are the XTR front mech and the steerer spacers.
As others have said, it can be too light, although having an unlimited budget can help - managed to break 3 XTR rear mechs one year 😯
The weight plays heavier on the mind than the legs ..Ive often wondered if you can notice say 1 lb in the real world.
re WC courses/bikes/riders etc, remember that those guys have full pit support and get free stuff, bikes with a yearly trip to the local shop for a service plus intermittent home faffing will have reduced lifespans and high bills )
Zoo200 - 8 years ago a lot of parts had weight limits or should have or were generally badly designed in an aim to save weight.
All of the Cannondales I have owned haven't had a weight limit and have had a lifetime warranty on the frame. I am guessing to gain customer confidence after they had issues on older frames. Anyway, there are plenty of stock full sus frames where 22lb can be reached without being silly.
From memory this very useable 140mm travel build came at 23.5lb and not much change from £6k so for a 22lb build you'd be looking at a xc race type machine.
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magic scales with the above
wheels are heavy
LUST tyres are heavy
XTR Trail Pedals are heavy
Triple with Mech/Shifter is heavy
Dropper is heavy
Saddle looks like a standard Gobi - thats heavy
Was just thinking that....
Was fitted with carbon gobi, easton haven stem and nobby nic/r-ralph tyres (fitted when they came in to stock) and full ti bolt kit, weighed on the shop scales as below, no reason to really doubt them, wheels weigh 1420g - is that heavy?.
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What is it they say "strong, light, cheap....pick two"
Re the Ibis above. You'll struggle to find a wheel with a better weight to strength ratio than crossmax slr's. 1420 grammes is a light wheel set.
You'll struggle to find a wheel with a better weight to strength ratio than crossmax slr's.
Not so sure about that, most carbon wheels are stronger and lighter, dare I say it, cheaper if you go light bicycle route
I'd echo that. For SLR money you could get DT180s on LB rims.
My scalpel 29er 100mm front and rear is 21.5lb. It's 1x10 with XTR hollowgram cranks and xx1 ring. It's possible I could get it to 22lb with a reverb but I'm not gnar enough to need a dropper.
Buy the 15" version of your frame that'll save weight
Best weight saving tip ever!
My plan to save weight is to get fit enough over the summer to race my SS in the Autumn. Light bike, less to go wrong, and super bonus - no wrecked expensive drivetrain parts!
Oh, and what is up with the super steep seat angle on that S-Works Epic in the link?
That rigid light weight zooom may just be a little too much for wolfies fragile back..
How's the back pain? Has core strengthening helped?
My XC race bike is 21.5 lbs but it's an 07 Kona Heihei (26er) with Pace 80mm forks and some carefully sources weenie parts like Dura Ace bar end shifters adapted to MTB thumbshifters. That saves a lot of weight and money too. It can be ridden flat out through typical trail centre or race course rough stuff, but if it gets really rocky you have to take it easy. Due to the lack of travel and flexy wheels more than anything else. Not worried about it breaking, but that's cos I am good with kit despite being 89kg.
Best weight saving tip ever!
It's not really actually - bikes of a different size are generally only 0.25-0.5lbs variance IME. I've seen identical bikes with bigger variation than different sizes. Red herring.
A mate always used to say that once you reach that 23-24lbs mark on a full susser and 20-21 on an ht, any extra weight saving won't make up for the lack of ability or rider strength / fitness it is trying to compensate for.
There's no making up for ability or strength. A light bike is nice, a fast rider is fast - the two things are independent. Fast rider on a slow bike will be fast, but not as fast as on a fast bike.
It all depends on what you want to achieve when you ride.
I've weighed one bike ever. I had my hardtail in work so plopped it onto the scales - big parcel weighing things and probably not very accurate. I can't even mind what it weighed. If i was a serious weight weenie who raced xc i think i'd ditch the front brake. That must save 0.5lb?
I've weighed one bike ever. I had my hardtail in work so plopped it onto the scales - big parcel weighing things and probably not very accurate. I can't even mind what it weighed. If i was a serious weight weenie who raced xc i think i'd ditch the front brake. That must save 0.5lb?
eh!
Let me rephrase that then 😆
I couldn't care less what my bikes weigh, but if i was as serious as some about bike weight, i'd only run one brake (rear). Does that make more sense?
I think once my LB wheelset arrives, I could cut half a kilo by then. I already have small frame in carbon which is a + . I'm 70k-72kg all riding gear.. I think i will be happy with 11-11.5kg by the end of this build.
@cloudnine. My Back still knackered mate 🙁 physio starts next monday finally ..
i'd only run one brake (rear). Does that make more sense?
No! makes no sense at all! 😯
you take one of these [url= http://www.scott-sports.com/us/en/products/233964006/bike-spark-700-premium-s/ ]sparky[/url]
and you do this to it
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and then you take a good long look at yourself, and wonder if that is why you are slower than your mates.