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I have roller brakes and a Nexus gears so having to be fix a rear puncture makes me shout swear words out loud.
Also anything to do with skinned knuckles - ie
Tightening cranks (with too-short multitool)
Removing cassette for cleaning
mrblobby : Get yourself a [url= http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/park-tool-ir-1-internal-cable-routing-kit/rp-prod142346 ]Park IR-1 Internal Cable Routing Kit[/url], makes a tiresome job so much easier
somafunk, tempting... but 45 quid for what'll probably be a one off. I'll see how I get on.
Fitting and removing saddles. It's a million times more difficult than it should be.
Internal routing and bleeding Avids. Even as a professional mechanic these would frustrate me!
PJM1974 - MemberTubeless valves...they always, always leak, no matter what I do. I've taken pliers to the stem lockring in desperation, only for the valve bed to shear and for me to pull a valve out of the hole.
You could try the superstar/WTB valves if you've not already- they have a bigger cone "plug" than others so they're very forgiving. Mine have always sealed up with just finger tightness (I've heard that overtightening is as likely to cause leaks as undertightening? Never tried it) But mostly leaks with stans-type rims at the valve are from taping- there's loads of different theories about cutting the valve tape but imo just using a scalpel and cutting a circle using the hole as your guide can't be beat.
Rotor Cranks, removal and replacement.
Fills me with dread [i]every[/i] time I go near them.. And they're on both Roadie and CXer..
Rotor Cranks, removal and replacement.
Haha, they're part of my new build too! Got to swap them over. Quite often take them off to change chainrings too, and other than the reverse thread thing on the pinch bolt, I don't think they're that bad.
[quote=nairnster ]Simple one, but getting mtb bars perfectly straight since the move to long travel forks. Much harder to achieve, and i never feel like its quite right.
For Mindmap3, the trick to fitting Specialized shocks with the conical washers is to make a dummy shaft just a smidge narrower than the assembly, which then holds them in place until they're into the slot, then tap it through with the monting bolt. Had the screaming ab-dabs on the first one I worked on, took almost no time on the next one using the shaft.
What about those little screw-like plastic covers on Shimano shifters? How many times I had to move the washing machine to get that little bas#£rd from below...
My Process came with cup n cone hubs . I found the best solution , buy a pair of Hope Hoops ! 🙂
I left that shizz behind when I was 10 can't be doing with it now !
Cup and cone on a road bike however, well worth any additional perceived effort.
Changing chainrings when the bolts just spin rather than tighten up and you don't have the wee tool.
Cheap headsets that are either stiff or wobbly and nothing inbetween.
nairnster - Member
Simple one, but getting mtb bars perfectly straight since the move to long travel forks. Much harder to achieve, and i never feel like its quite right
Easy, looking down at the bars, close one eye and line up the back of the bars with the front of the fork crowns. You can see which side has a gap and tap the bars into perfect allignment.
Chain guides are a PITA. Especially when involving Raceface or SRAM cranks & the utterly crap self extracting bolt design.
At least SRAM show some thought to the design and put the bolt on the NDS so you don't have to wrestle it all together only to find the guide is rubbing.
Shimano any day, to make life easy 🙂