Aaaarrgghh id forgotten how annoying this is. For good reason it seems, all my other bikes now have non-shimano brakes.
So I rebuilt my road bike with some grx shifters to replace some knackered 105s. Same BR-RS785 calipers.
Bled them. Bite point wandering 🤬
Bled them again using the Santa Cruz syndicate gravity bleed method. Bite point still wandering 🤬
The second method has always worked for me first time on MTB brakes.
Anyone know any tips or tricks or differences in regard to drop bar levers?
Going to have another attempt this afternoon and try not to swear.
ThanksÂ
When burping the levers, you get a lot of air out by tipping the levers down a lot - ie turn bars to right and lean the bike over to the right beyond 45degrees then swap and do it to the left. Dislodges lots of air.
Putoline HXP 2.5wt fork oil is the best solution I ever found.
Thanks, didn't get around to faffing with it today so I'll give the lever burping a go tomorrow.
@Onzadog how does the fork oil work? Lighter weight than normal brake mineral oil so bubbles move quicker?
I think the theory is lower viscosity so faster moving in the system and easier to bleed. Not sure which it is, but I know everyone who has tried it, found it to work.
Interesting that shimano has now moved to lower viscosity fluid. Not heard of any trouble with seals eitherÂ
Putoline HXP 2.5wt fork oil is the best solution I ever found.
+1, although I've only used it in mtb brakes. Deore, slx and xt and all work better with this than they did using mineral oil in my experience, it was also cheaper than Shimano mineral oil when I last bought a bottleÂ
https://www.trialsuk.co.uk/Putoline-HPX-R-Fork-Oil---2.5w5w7.5w10w---1-Litre
Thanks ive ordered some of the fork oil too. Might aswell throw the kitchen sink at it...
Just bled them with the fork oil - all sorted - cheers 👍
Glad to hear it worked. Thanks for closing the loop.