[Closed] Seatpost stuck in Blue Pig

If you can turn the post then it shouldn't be that bad to get out. Get a mate to hold the frame and twist while you do the same with the post. Both stood up to give more leverage.

Surely you wouldn't be able to turn it if it was seized in?

Drill a hole through the post, twist and pull with a bar while securing the frame?

arrgh...and on mine the seat clamp (salsa flip lock) does not hold the seatpost......

if it turns---it will go out...with saddle mounted and a the help from a mate....

Maybe Mike but it's never happened to me before and it certainly is putting up a fight, it doesn't turn easily but will with some brute force

For he pig fames i recomend a ragley seat clamp works better.

have also a ragley clamp...but best results so far with the salsa...

sorry---offtopic I know...

the british leyland of the bike world.
heat with hair dryer & pull & twist .then sell the piece of scaffolding off .

worth noting alloy & steel do not mix well they build up a natural corrosice.

major problem with car diesiel engines using alloy blocks with steel injectors sieze solid

Hi James, sorry you're having trouble.

I had a customer somewhere in the middle of Canada with a problem like this the other day. I have put an additional QC check in for future frames - a "420mm seatpost clearance" check.

That won't get your post out though - try some boiling water from a kettle over the seat tube to get a bit of expansion going on. That might well help.

And you need to see if you can get some purchase to knock/shock it out.

If you really get stuck, get in touch and we'll get it workshopped, fixed and returned to you.

Thanks Brant - I tried the kettle of water but apparently ally expands more than steel so that may well have made it tighter?

There can't be that much left in the frame - I can see number 5 on the i-beam post so I'm guessing that's 5cm plus the minimum insertion length on a 400mm post, so perhaps 10-15cm left in?

I'm using a Raceface Deus XC post in mine an it's certainly a snug fit. Requires quite a bit of waggling to get it in & out and as a result it's now scratched to buggery! Thinking of taking a file to the two corners at the top of the slot to round off the sharp corners a tad

>apparently ally expands more than steel

Yup.

Dunno if it's make enough difference, but mebbe you could try packing around the area with ice - or leave it outside for several hours if it's gonna be frosty ?

I hope you manage to remove..
my buddy had to pass his NS frame to a mate with a pillar drill.
He then drilled the remaining chunk of metal in the frame (after cutting the post down.

Glad its not just me thats had their seatpost fall in love with their BluePig frame! Going to have to have the frame reamed now and then look into alternatives to just grease to stop the two bonding.

The Thomson post in my pig is tight as buggery to move but still manages to slip even with the salsa QR done up so tight I struggle to close it!

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try the kettle trick.........

Tried it...

As above James - if the post will twist in the frame then extraction is really just down to getting enough 'pull' on the post to get it past whatever obstruction is holding it in.

also agree with freezing the seat post - maybe one of those wine bottle cooler things you put in the freezer around the post for 10 minutes?

could you clamp a long bar in the seatclamp to give more leverage?

turn bike upside down stand on the saddle one foot on each side and pull bike up while twisting a bit worked for me. Scratched my post to buggery mind 🙁 but its out now

Remove the bolt from your clamp and slide the clamp off the frame. That might help even if its just a little.

This is usually caused by a spur of metal jamming itself into the post

had it on a kona coiler - post would move but wuldnt come out.

Got it out in the end but the post was BADLY scored...although it dit ream the seatpost enough so that a replacement post went in fine.

I had this problem, solved with a workmate clamping the saddle and me standing on workmate, unscrewing the stripped frame from the seatpost. You can get huge leverage this way holding headtube and rear drop outs. Post and saddle were totally fubared though. Post seemed to chemically bond to the frame, both got very hot on unscrewing.

Lesson was 0.2mm really does matter.

If you're not bothered about the post :

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or [url= http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/swollen-seatpost ]acid[/url] 🙂

The boiling water thing shouldn't affect the post - you're pouring it on the frame, not onto the post - by the time the heat has transferred to the post it won't be enough to expand the alloy post.

I think I'd wrap the post in rags and use a pipe wrench to pull the sucker out while twisting.

Take the seat off. Then using a trusty claw hammer (metal on metal will help). Whack the top of the seatpost downwards. Stop- twist..and repeat.

A Clawhammer should be in every bike mechanics toolbox 🙂

Take the seat off. Then using a trusty claw hammer (metal on metal will help). Whack the top of the seatpost downwards. Stop- twist..and repeat.

Rinse and repeat until post is well and truly jammed in frame 😉

No- it'll free it. You are not literally hitting it down into the frame like a tentpeg! Hit/Twist/hit/twist...Just enough friction to break the 'bond'!!

Hora, he's trying to get it [b]OUT[/b] you muppet!

If I was wanting it out, the last thing I'd be doing is hammering it downwards Mark 😉

No no. I cant beleive I am arguing with the King of mechanics here. Its abit like turning my light sabre onto Obi One 😯

I mean the sharp/short 'shock' of the hammer releases the 'stichon'/where it has bonded when left. Ive done this with a steel frame before. The key is to keep twisting before you knock it down.

PMSL @ Hora 😆

O?T- PeterPoddy when are you coming upto the Peaks then for a ride?

Despite the replies, Hora's suggestion worked for me once. Stuck an old saddle on, firm tap upwards with a mallet then turn & repeat. Gradually worked it outwards. Post was a bit shagged though.

Despite the replies, Hora's suggestion worked for me once

You are knocking up tho. He is advocating banging it down.

To be fair, Hora is right, shock often works, I would only move it downward the once though!

Not banging. The metal on metal resonates/'shock's the surface is the best way of describing it.

however I once banged as hard as possible against some stuck-fast rotor bolts in my King rear hub and hey presto- THEY LOOSENED! 😀

Hora, if you're hitting something with a hammer hard enough to loosen it you are banging. Or is it called aggravated tapping these days?

Technically, that's what's known as a 'slight adjustment with a precision instrument'

No- it'll free it. You are not literally hitting it down into the frame like a tentpeg! Hit/Twist/hit/twist...Just enough friction to break the 'bond'!!

But it's not "bonded", it can twist, it's a mechanical interference that's causing the problem. Sure a good bang often shocks a corroded bond into giving up, but once the post moves in the hole you want to be knocking it out of the frame, not down into it 🙂