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poah - MemberWent for saints over the guides as the guides are dot fluid and have huge reservoirs
Big resevoirs is a bad thing? Hadn't really noticed them being considerably larger than Shimano tbh
I remember when the juicys first came out and everyone jumped ship from shimano/hayes to them. Then when they'd been around for a year or so all the problems started to come out. Then elixirs came out and much of the same problems where observed and more.
New shimanos came out everyone jumped ship again. Another year then problems began to show up. Then in recent years the QC or something at the shimano brake factory seems to have fallen off the wagon and people seem to be getting bad ones out the box.
New guides are out people are looking for a new go to brake, Sram are trying to atone for their previous sins.
From my experience, once Avids/Sram/shimano brakes "need" a bleed they're all ready dead. A good Shimano bleed can be a fine art, getting all the little bubbles out etc, which seem to make a big difference. Zip tying levers to bars for an hour etc. I bled my mates guides (dunno the model, they're on an alu capra) and it was actually really easy and they felt mint afterwards. He then proceeded to boil them and they felt shit again...
Another mate has the Hope induro pacific brakes, they feel soo nice but they're bare dollar. He's pretty rapid and probably doesnt drag his brakes like most mere mortals do.
bit of rambling post, but I think what I'm trying to say is none of them are perfect, pick the one you're/your LBS is most comfortable with working on and go from there.
I like the bite point to be far from the handlebars (just a shallow push and to engage)
I read that the guides (even the rsc) have the biting point located more to the handlebars.
Is that true?
[quote=freeriding ]I like the bite point to be far from the handlebars (just a shallow push and to engage)
I read that the guides (even the rsc) have the biting point located more to the handlebars.
Is that true?
Not in my experience. The reach adjust means you can have the bite point anywhere you want relative to the lever position.
I found on Shimanos with the bite point is pretty immediate when the reach is wound right out, but once you wind the reach in the bite point moves significantly further in the lever throw.
With Guides, the bite point is really quick so wherever you like the levers is pretty much where the bite point will be.
Agreed, mine are further in than I could ever setup Shimanos but with the bite point quite far out. OTOH I know people that run Srams/Avids with the levers in the same place as mine but with the bite point almost where the lever touches the grip.
Even when the reliability of Avids was really poor, they still had bite point adjust working wwaayy better than anyone else I've seen
Double post coz Friday
not used the guides but have had saints and zee's for a few years now and not had any issues with them. no fade on long runs in the alps even with poor braking technique and sintered pads and a doddle to bleed. nice and powerful and I don't find them grabby and that plenty of modulation (the XT's on the other hand are a bit on an off). the down sides are that they are not repairable so if you blow a seal or crack a piston, its a whole new calliper unit and the bight point adjusters do naff all. the problems with inconsistent bight points or the lever jacking up seem to of mainly been with the XT's and im sure I read somewhere recently that shimano had addressed this recently
thank you guys!
if you were in my shoes, would you buy the 2017 rsc (S4caliper) - 280€ ?R the hope v4 - 320€?
bump
I have has E4's too. Very nice, look great, satisfying ownership feeling. But in the end, I sold those and kept the guides so I suppose that's where I would be with it.
Saint!