What are your experiences folks with the current crop of Reverbs..specifically the 2012 versions? Ive been umming and ahhing about buying one of these for ages but they seemed to have serious issues, have they got better reliability yet?
2011 here and still running strong with no problems.
As above, touch wood 2011 version, 1000 off road miles, no issues. 2 mates both have the same with no issues either
Supposedly 2012 from Action De (no reason to believe its not 2012).
10 rides and already had upper tube/air assembly replaced.
I bought mine from hibike.de about a year ago, I've never had to bleed it, no problems at all.
Mine is first gen bought when they first hit the shops no problems out the box whatsoever. Best bike purchase in years, closely second to Pedros tyre levers. Go for it.
I've a 2011 version, started to run slow, Sony bled it out and it just died. Took it to my LBS, they bled it again, still dead and losing air pressure quick- fresh pumped to 250psi to about 150 in 5 minutes!
They sent it back to Fisher, who turned it round in two days(!) but sent a shitty note back with it saying it was bled wrong! Both myself and the LBS followed their instructions to a T, also can't see how bleeding it wrong would cause an air leak. Either way it's back, and so far so good! Thumbs up from me despite the minor hitch.
I've had a 2012 one for a few months now, bought from lbs incase of issues (cba with sending stuff away if there were any) but my fears have been baseless as it's run like clockwork.
Snapped the remote lever off in a random incident involving my shorts and trying to turn a corner after finishing the last run of the day but otherwise, no issues. Up and down like a dream 😀
No worries, fisher only charge £117 for a new lever...
Had my 2011 replaced after 6 months - cracking service from Fisher as well
Been running my 2012 model for 5 months with no issues
Considering the abuse that the component goes through, and how unreliable alternatives are, I think they do very well
I'll be keen to see how the new Fox attempt bears up - it should be mighty good for £350 notes!
I look after 3 2011 Reverbs and all they need a regular post wash lubing and an occasional bleed. I squirt a bit of Fork Juice around the outer seal and pump the seat up and down to try an clear any muck out.
If the seal dries out they do lose air but pumping it back up to around 270psi once the seal is moist seems to work for me.
I did manage to snap the seat end barb off in a loss of talent moment in a rock garden but the new uprated barb was only a tenner and a lot more robust.
2012 Reverb for the last 4 months and it has worked faultlessly. I was in the same boat about whether or not to buy one, but got it from the LBS as they would fit and set up. Best thing i have bought for the bike. Take the plunge and go for it.
Mugboo - picked up a new lever for £44. You don't need to buy the whole remote assembly if you snap the lerver...
If you need anymore convincing, then I've owned two 2012s and only had minor issues - very easy to look after too.
Just ordered a new one after mine were stolen.
and how unreliable alternatives are,
'ahem' -gravity dropper......
My original 2010 Reverb was an absolute nightmare - had t ore-bleed before every ride until it seized up.
Replaced under warranty for a 2012 version and I've not had to touch it since, worknig an absolute dream, including through the filthy clag I was riding through at Hanchurch yesterday. couldn't even see the BB pivots but the Reverb was working smooth as a really smooth thing in Smoothland.
I'm still not fully grasping why they're so good ?
If you can get your bum off the back of the seat when riding then surely you don't need one ?
I'm tempted to buy one... lol... but not sure why.
It's not just a case of getting off the back of the seat, it's about moving the saddle out of the way without having to stop.
E.g. yesterday it qwas great having the saddle at 'arse in the air' height for going up hill, fireroad blastes, etc, but as soon as the trail gets a bit bumpy & starts gonig down it's a godsend bing able to lower the saddle a bit, maybe only an inch or 2 to give that extra bit of freedom/movement without having to stop pedalling. Then when the ground really drops away you've got no worries about being too far forwards/too close to saddle/catching nads (delete as applicable).
I've never done the lowering thing...
Mines been fine (original one) still on the original hose connection too.
I used to be in the "I never drop my saddle" camp
If you ride somewhere that's very consistent (i.e. there are definate 30min climbs, 20min singletracks and 10 minute decents, then QR's or whatever are fine, it's when it's 30 seconds of each in quick succession they help. There're a couple of trails near me that start up on the moors with pedaly doubletrack, then some pedaly singletrack, then some fast open DH track with jumps and big berms, before dropping into some tighter singletrack, with short fireroad climbs every so often, that's where it's usefull.
I have a 2012 one and thought long and hard before buying it due to reliability as I tend to crash frequently....my reverb has survived some reasonable stacks at Cwmcarn on my Bfe and does not get maintained. All I have done is shortened the hose and re bled it after cutting. I never used to drop my saddle but just find that I enjoy the ride a bit more on unfamiliar stuff. Its a lot of money but I really like mine
weeksy - it probably depends on how much you want to move the bike around under you. Mine has totally transformed how confidently I can ride some sections. When I go on my other bike and forget to manually lower the post, everything just feels 'wrong'.
Combine that with a few things I've learned from how-to vids and a skills session and it's totally transformed how much I enjoy riding downhill.
Davecm - where from for when I do it again!
It didn't cost me full price thank god!
What issues, I got an old model dirt cheap from across the water ,no bleed kit nor FA, an it's been fine , so much so that when we got the heads up the other day I ordered another cheap one for the new bike, they're grrrrrrrreat .
I wouldn't call them a game changer but they are the only real innovation I can think of to come out of mountain biking.
I was also in the "can't see the point of this, I just ride XC with my seat up" camp. My old XC bike had a bolted seatpost clamp and it just stayed fully up whether I was going over a double or going downhill, and if I don't put the reverb on it, I still leave it up.
Put it on the Blur 4x though and I love it.
For me it's about flow and fun. Sure, riding with the seat up wont stop you from riding that tricky section but having it down makes it easier to move around really work the bike through the trail = more flow.
No more stopping after you put your seat down for that promise of sweet downhill that actually turned out to be a short blast with a long slog up round the next corner = more flow.
I feel it's less necessary for when I'm clipped in - but for flat pedal riders they're awesome. Jedi put it best in one of his blogs and he's so right. No more compromise - you can have it at the best height for pedaling but drop it in an instant when the trail gets rough.
In short, more flow and more fun 😉
Mugboo - MemberDavecm - where from for when I do it again!
It didn't cost me full price thank god!
Heh. I must admit I initially came to the same conclusion as you in that I'd need a whole knew assembly as that is all google came up with, but fortunately I found the part I needed [url= http://www.mountainbikebitz.com/rockshox-mountain-bike-seat-post-spares-c-4937_6110_6121.html ]HERE[/url].
Turned up quick too.
I had a couple of near repeats whilst in Scotland the past two weeks and when you pull back the rubber gaiter you see just what a weak design it is.
Assuming this is the part you broke, of course.
Yep that's the part.
Thanks for that, fingers crossed I don't need it...