Hi folks,
After a hiatus of 5 or 6 years, I've started getting interested in getting back out on my bike (time allowing - the hiatus was a byproduct of a house move and having two kids), so picked it up from the mother-in-law's garage this weekend (first time it's been to our new house that we've now lived in for nearly 5 years!).
Now, since I bought it new in around 2013 it hasn't seen a lot of use, and was left pretty clean before it was stored away. However it had flat tyres, which I've now pumped back up. What I did notice is that my RockShox Reverb dropper post seems to be in need to some TLC, as it doesn't really go up when the button is pressed now, and if I put any weight on it it drops down, even without the button pressed. Is it likely to just be a case of pumping it back up, or should I service it? It's also hardly seen any use. What would I need to service it, and how difficult is it?
Also, I'm wondering what else I should service. Will the fork and rear shock likely be OK?
The brakes are hydraulic discs, so I'll probably re-bleed them, as they use DOT fluid.
And lastly, what's the best chain lube to use? The geartrain is pretty clean and the bikes have been covered with a sheet the whole time, but everything could do with a light clean and re-lube.
The bike is a Cannondale Jekyll of around 2012 vintage. I bought it the last time I got back into biking, but quickly realised how unfit I'd become since I last used to bike, and my old riding buddies were still really fit...
Hence it didn't get as much use as I'd planned, even if it did have a few filthy rides.
If there's an easy way of uploading photos I could post a few pics.
I can't help with the reverb issue as I have no experience but I know they need services decently regularily.
I have found muc off dry lube to be quite a good value for money lube. It's light but has lasted me 8 months now with 2 bikes and there is still half left in there. It lasts a couple of rides and then needs to be reapplied.
In terms of uploading photos if you have a pinkbike account you can upload them there and then copy the photo address and past it using the "IMG" function in the singletrack text box.
First port of call on the Reverb would be to check that it's got the correct PSI in it.
As above, wee valve hidden under the clamp, make sure reverb has 250 psi (you'll need a shock pump, which the Jekyll should have come with, and a socket wrench is handy for undoing the cap)
Failing that, it might need a bleed. If it doesn't work after that, you're into expensive repairs, to the point that a replacement Brand X post is a better idea.
Thanks folks. I'll start with some air. I have a Cannondale shock pump and a Rock Shox one, so should be fine on that front.
Should I do anything with the forks/rear shock, or just check the pressures on them and ride it?
I was thinking about getting some Fork Juice or similar just to give the seals some love, but anything beyond that means stripping it down, which I've never done before.
Aye, some air in reverb and fork juice, ride and see how it goes. Best of luck mate.
Flipping the bike upside down overnight will let oil from the lowers run to the seals and foam rings, can be a good thing
Thanks again guys. I'll do the air, fork juice and flip the bike over and see how it goes.
What do people recommend for chain lube and do you think I should bleed the brakes?
Always rock ‘n roll blue lube. Sun, rain or clagtastic mud. Apply, ride, hose bike off. Repeat. You only need to bleed the brakes if they feel spongy but i’d be taking it easy on the first couple of rides until you’re comfortable that they do indeed stop you when you ask them to.
The seals in the air chambers of the fork and shock may be dry. I generally remove the valves from the forks and shocks and try to get a few CCs of fork oil into the air chamber. Then pump it up very slightly and turn the bike over to distribute the oil around the chamber so that it lubes the seals. Then pump it up to 50 psi or so and turn it over again. Hopefully the pressure will force oil into the seals. Then release all pressure and gently cycle the suspension through the full range of travel to lube the seals. Then pump them up to full pressure and bounce around a bit.
Popping the seals on the forks and lubing the foam rings is a simple thing to do. Well worth the trouble. Turning the bike upside down overnight is also simple and worth doing.
I would remove the brake pads and carefully squeeze the brake levers to pop the pistons out just a little bit. Clean the pistons with a toothbrush or something, then try to drip a few drops of brake fluid onto the pistons to lube them. When you refit the pads, use a flat screwdriver to gently push the pistons back into the caliper and then carefully squeeze the lever again to check that both pistons are free. Give the brake pads a light sanding (or replace them if they're more than half worn) and clean the rotors with alcohol. You'll need to bed the brakes in again, but they should come good after a few hard braking efforts. Flushing and replacing the fluid is sensible.
For the chain, I would shift it into the middle of the cassette (so the chainline is straight) and carefully backpedal to see if there are any seized links. If it's running smoothly, just use your regular lube. If there are stiff links, use liquid lube (or just any kind of oil, really) and work the stiff links until the entire chain runs smoothly. Slather on lots of lube and go for a gentle ride to work the lube into the pins. Then clean the chain and use your regular lube.
Don't know about the Reverb, it doesn't sound hopeful. If it's going to need a full service, probably better to just look at the price of a Brand-X.
I would replace the front tyre at least. The rubber will have hardened and it probably won't have much grip left. If it has lots of tread left, you might be able to use it later as a rear tyre.
Wow, that's a lot! Not sure how to do the fork stuff, (aside from adding air) is there a guide online anywhere?
As for the post, I'm hopeful - it's basically brand new. But we'll see.
Same for the tyres, they don't appear cracked or anything and haven't seen daylight to dry them out. I'll probably give them a try, as I'm not likely to be going crazy fast, at least initially.
The original reverbs were a mixed bag. Some poeple were getting warranty replacements twice a year, others were keeping them for half a decade using them every week.
Seatposts tend to lose air more than shocks (for reasons I dont understand) so pump it up and see if that fixes it. Lever bleed might be worth it. anything more and you will be spending more than the cost of a new brand-X or similar.
The brakes if they work, I wouldn't touch them. Although what "work" means... gently slowing your velocity (or even the ability to lock the wheels up) when pedalling around the drive doesnt mean they will actually work when you point them down a trail. Have you got a friend with a modern well maintained bike you could do a side by side comparison with?
Jusst had a thought - does it look like this, with the pull shock (shock gets longer when suspension compresses?)
https://www.pinkbike.com/news/Cannondale-Jekyll-4--Tested.html
It was a bit on an evolutionary dead end.
Check the shock works first, possibly pay for a proper service, don't think they make them any more and there was a bit of a reputation of them breaking. So if you ruin the shock, the frame is landfill...
That link didn't take me to a specific bike. I uploaded photos of the bike to Pinkbike, but can't work out how to get that from there to here...
Regarding the brakes, I can bleed them easily enough (I have the Avid bleed kit) but I'm not sure if it's worth sanding the pads or anything unless the brakes squeal or are obviously contaminated?
try this link, for similar bike
https://www.bikeradar.com/reviews/bikes/mountain-bikes/cannondale-jekyll-3-review/ https://www.bikeradar.com/reviews/bikes/mountain-bikes/cannondale-jekyll-3-review/
This shock, the bike pulls it (lengthens it) as the suspension compresses.
It's a pretty unique design, pretty much nobody uses it now, Cannondale have dropped it.
Yeah that's it - that's the exact shock mine has. It is basically two shocks in one, a short travel shock for XC stuff and a long travel shock for bumpier stuff - switched with that lever on the bar.
I've just watched a couple of videos for servicing the forks, which seems fairly straightforward, but I'm not sure if the rear shock might be more tricky.
I've never serviced a fork before and always just run them without servicing, but I've become more mechanically sympathetic as I've got older, so with Fox recommending a service every year at a minimum, I think I ought to have a go servicing it.
I guess the benefit of the rear shock is that it's small, so once it's off the bike I could work on it on a table or workbench.
If I can find a guide and service kit, that is...
There’s a whole load of bikes out there that have never had anything done to them and still run fine. Don’t worry too much about anything.
Personally I’d pump everything up to the correct pressure, lube the chain with whatever you have and just go for a gentle ride not too far from home. See how it all feels before starting to pull anything apart.
if your fork is a rockshox like in that picture, type the serial number (probably back of the crown) in here
https://trailhead.rockshox.com/en/search/
I guess the benefit of the rear shock is that it’s small, so once it’s off the bike I could work on it on a table or workbench.
I've done a fork lower leg service (oils and seals) without taking the fork off the bike
Don't you need to add fluid from the bottom of the fork (and thus need it upside down)?
On my bike all the suspension is Fox Racing. The fork is a Fox Talas 32.
The videos I found online look almost identical to my fork, aside from the one in the video was a 29er fork and had Kashima Coat on the stanchions. (My stanchions are slightly goldish, but not as vivid as the Kashima Coat and without any branding.
rjuk
I guess the benefit of the rear shock is that it’s small, so once it’s off the bike I could work on it on a table or workbench.
They're a bit more complex than the average air can, I think they tend not to be user servicable, so might need a specialist service
But assuming the seals are OK and it holds air, I'd just get out and ride it
Cool, thanks. I might just do that. Will probably order a can of fork juice just to lube/clean the outer seals.
OK, well now I'm stuck. Having asked about regarding servicing the DYAD, it seems there is one place that bought up all the service kits when Fox stopped supporting it, so can still service them, albeit to the tune of £267.00. They can also do a full service on the fork for £99.00 and a full service on the Reverb for £87.00. That totals £453.00.
So now I'm wondering, do I spend the best part of £500 on reviving this bike properly, or is it better to just sell it on and put the money towards something more modern?
If the shock is still working, just ride it. If it stops working, you are facing a bill of £267.00 to salvage the frame. In that case, you'd probably be better to strip it and and use the parts to build another bike on a second-hand frame.
As above, for now you need to stop worrying about servicing the fork/shock. See if pumping up the Reverb works, leave the bike upside down over night then lube the seals then go for a ride or two. That should tell you if anything else needs doing.
Last thing you want to do is spend the thick end of £500 on a bike that might go back in the garage in 6 months. I personally would not spend that much on servicing an obsolete shock so if it does need doing at some point I'd be looking at changing frames, but you should be no where near that point yet IMO.
I’d just turn the bike upside down for a few hours for any lube in the fork to find its way to the foam rings / fork seals.
Pump up the tyres and the reverb and the suspension to the desired pressure. Lube the chain and just go for it. If the brakes are working then don’t touch them.
Just ride it and see how it goes - I wouldn’t throw much money at a bike that old that has an obsolete rear shock. Also presumably a 26er so less supply of tyres and in particular forks if it has a straight headtube.
If you enjoy it just ride it until something dies. I’d then break it and sell off what you can and buy a new bike with decent geometry. I know someone who has a similar era Cannondale (think also a Jekyll) and they recently picked up a £550 Vitus Nucleus 29er and its way faster / more capable than the Jekyll just because of newer geometry and wheelsize. All he’s done is change to a bigger range cassette / shifter / mech (it came with Box components with quite a limited range) and he’s loving it.
Thanks folks. I appreciate the advice.
Ok, so today I washed the bike and pumped up the Reverb, almost killing myself in the process. It was at around 100psi so I was hopeful that was the problem. After the workout of getting it up to 250psi... Still the same. Well, maybe it stays up now, but it still doesn't actuate properly.
Is there a reason you guys have suggested buying a new post altogether rather than servicing this one? I had a price of £79 to service it, IIRC, which is cheaper than a new post, or are they just so unreliable and fragile to make them not worth bothering with?
Would a bleed perhaps fix the issues?
One thing I did notice after pumping it up was some oil around the valve (which is on the bottom of the post on mine, as it's not the stealth one.
Not sure if that's a sign of something or other.
Cheers.
Brand X ascend is only £40 more expensive than servicing your reverb, 10 years newer and a warranty.
I had the same bike in as yours for 4 months trying to source parts to get it back on track. It was a job well done by the end but there other was £800 lighter for a short and steep bike.
I'd personally seek it as is and look to find a second hand calibre bossnut or similar
