[Closed] Resurrecting old Lumis

I looked into the LED thing - do a search on here for "cutter". It's not a simple "remove bulb, insert LED" job, you need to get dirty with the soldering iron.

as for the battery, sounds like some of the cells have died or lost capacity. You could strip it, get a multimeter, find the dead cells and replace the, - or just buy a replacement battery off [url= http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/profile/smudge ]smudge[/url] at half the price of a lumicycle battery

have a look in here for some cree MR16 replacements (IIRC lumis use MR16 bulbs?)
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=238308

Lumis are MR11, smaller than MR16

Give Lumi a call about your battery. I think they do a pretty cheap refurb service where they check all the cells & replace any faulty ones.

Aside from that, might be worth getting yourself some new bulbs too?? If you search for MR11 halogen, you'll find plenty of online shops that do them cheaper than Lumi.

As above for the conversion to LED, it can be done, but the cost of the Cutter kits seems to have gone up a bit & I think it's a bit of a squeeze to fit it all in. I did start to design an extension tube/heatsink that would go on the front of the lamp, but I haven't really got time to mess about with it.

I've got housings custom made for MR16's, LED or Halogen, if you're interested. Lumi brackets fit straight onto these with a small hole drilled to suit positioning. Plug-in MR16's don't give the same amount of light as a 20w halogen, but good run times with their 3w draw.

sorry, confused myself RE MR11/MR16

I had one of Jabil's ol hairgel pot MR16 holders for my Lumi battery a while ago.

Its a pity no one like cutter does an MR11 bulb with a handful of XREs in it.

Try this kit from Cutter,

http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut790

not as powerful as the newer XPG's but will give 500+ lumens good, I've converted some lumi's with no other mods required, should double the duration that you get from your pack

T1000, that Cutter kit you link to seems to have a square driver board that looks quite big (compared to the Lumi cans). How did you fit that into the Lumi cans?

And you don't need to replace the switch with this kit?
How would you say the brightness compares to the Lumi halogens? Brighter than for example, the 20w flood?
And what's the beam pattern like? Quite floody or tight? - I notice you can specify a narrow or medium optic.

The problem with that kit T1000, is the new driver that's in the kit is too big to fit the lumi halogen can.

I've been working on an alternative and I think i'm there.

I found a small heatsink/transfer block, that only need a small bit of filing and it's a perfect fit, a smaller driver off ebay thanks to troutie and any Mr11 Cutter kit with optic.

heatsink arrived yesterday and i'm just about to put an order in to cutter for the optics and LED's.

Will post up the conversion (including instructions etc) when I get it complete, unless somebody has a spare triple MR11 LED board, that I can use (and replace of course) it may get 2-3 weeks, because i need to wait for the Cutter order to arrive.

Stumpy, the narrow optic for the triple MR11 LED is spot on, the medium is a bit to 'floody' IMHO

Cool - a conversion guide for what your working on would be great.

Have you seen this on the cutter site?

http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut947

looks pretty handy - just a shame it's only one LED. Brightest LED from the options kicks out 430lumens & the kit costs £30 with that LED set as an option.
Not sure how many lumens the 12w Spot/20w Flood halogens are.

I'm probably just imagining this, but every time I've decided to save a few quid and bought cheaper bulbs for my Lumi's, I've regretted it and gone back to the ones that Lumicycle supply. I find them brighter, and longer lasting than the cheap as chips ones you get from B&Q etc.

Might just go and order a couple of new ones as we speak! 8)

I'd also 2nd getting Lumicycle to refurbish you're battery. I've always had superb service from them.

Not sure how many lumens the 12w Spot/20w Flood halogens are

not sure myself.

If you buy the XPG's from cutter and the driver off ebay runs at about 700ma then I would suspect 700-800 min lumens is the sort of figure you would be looking at for the conversion.

That lot also comes to about the £30 mark.

Lumicycle refurbished my battery last winter after it started playing up, cost about £11 IIRC.

I converted my halogens to LEDs about 3 years ago, cost about £40 each at the time and did require some delicate soldering. Never done anything similar before, learnt to solder by watching youtube instruction vids, they've been great ever since (gave my brother 1 setup as you will only need one on your bars ideally cupled with the Joystick headlight).

I used the cutter kit from the time (R series LEDs I think) which were on a board the samo size as the Lumi can - needed a little filing for snug fit. Mounted in heat paste, never any issues with overheating.

However its far easier and only slightly more £ to order the bastid lights from dealextreme. Just had 4 sets arrive today for various mates which I will fondle this evening before handing over 🙂

Give Lumi a call about your battery. I think they do a pretty cheap refurb service where they check all the cells & replace any faulty ones.

It's something we used to do when NiMH batteries were more popular but now we're not keeping spare NiMH cells anymore We do have a special price for upgrading customers £139.99 for a 14.8v 4.4a h/r LiIon Pro battery pack and fast intelligent charger Call me on 0870 757 2229 to order Hope that helps

I suspect best to replace batteries via Smudge.
I cant find any decent Nimh set up for less than about £80 and 5mudge will do a liIon one for circa that price.

I bought one of these for my Lumis - very good value
http://www.cpsbatteries.co.uk/132v-4ah-bottle-battery-p-2166.html

nice link ta

beagleboy - I ordered a replacement halogen from Lumicycle and it was just a bog standard General Electric on that you can get anywhere. It was in the original box & I think it even has the GE logo printed on the back of the reflector.
I don't think Lumi have the resources/clout to get a specific halogen bulb made up - 99% sure they just use off the shelf. GE ones might be better than some other cheaper/non branded ones though.

Chucky - a link to the ebay driver & the heatsink you have found (if it's internet based) would be very useful.

40mpg, I know what you mean about the Bastid lights, but would rather hang on to the Lumi's I think. Swapping them to LED would be just a bit of a 'something to do' project - it's not really necessary.

Junkyard - I've got the LiIon battery - didn't realise they have stopped supporting NiMh. That's a bit of a shame, although that link from trailseeker looks promising.

I had an old lumi battery and I decided to be clever and buy replacement cells from Strikalite. When I sent the first lot back and ordered the size I should have got in the first place, it cost me nearly as much as a new one.

But the good news is I'm getting super run times and i salvaged a few of the old cells to make a separate pack for my 6v helmet light.

I recieved, today, a triple XPG R5 and bflex regulator from Cutter specific intention is to put it into a standard lumi can, by y measurements it should fit without any mods to the case (apart from an extra hole for the status LED) . . . initial power up with my 13.2V lumi NiMh battery shows it looks a lot better than my Lumi HID . . . better beam spread and brighter . . . almost identical power consumption I think, although I need to do some more testing once I knock up a heatsink . . . beauty of the lumi cans are that they are lovely and small and plentiful as everybody is buying new lights . . . plus a lumi 4.5Ah NiMh will run one of these puppies for 4 hours + on max . . .

Someone should put together a standard lumi can conversion kit with switch, heatsink, etc . . . nice cheap way to keep your charger/battery/cans and move into the next league of lighting . . .

Fd

Mate of mine is selling his HID lamp unit, haven't a clue if your batteries will fit but look here: http://www.treadsmtb.co.uk/index.php?page=forum If you want some seriously bright lights. I used them at 24/12 last year and it didn't slow me down any...

P.S. You may need to sign up or PM me and you can use my ID

P.P.S. My mate only upgraded to another Lumi as they were so chuffin good at customer service, so if you're having issues with your current set, Lumi should be your first call

Someone should put together a standard lumi can conversion kit with switch, heatsink, etc

just what i'm trying to do fergusd

or at least generate a shopping list for folk.

do you want a link to a heatsink that will fit perfectly?

If anyone cracks the Lumi-LED conversion and fancies earning a few quid, then give me a shout...

Please.

I have a source for motor heatsinks that would fit the outside of a lumi can, probably the same thing ?

I do wonder just how much of a heatsink would really be needed, I'll have a MCPCB to case adapter made up over the next couple of days to get the heat out into the body of the case so will do some temp testing on full power and see what gives . . . really needs done outdoors on the move as it makes a huge difference, especially at the moment . . .

The XPG's will run up to about 150C and the bflex has a thermal limit built in, so nothing is really going to get toasted . . . as ever the slug inside the case is the key and most difficult thing to source . . .

Oh, if you have a part number/source for a small momentary switch that will take a waterproof cover that would save spending hours looking for one . . .

😉

Fd

The lamp on the left is my triple R2 helmet light converted from a halogen, driven @ 1000mA by a bflex with thermal power reduction set to 50C & all last winter it didn't dim once but its so warm at the moment that it dims while climbing after about six minutes @ 14C ambient, with an 11mm bit of aluminium that is a tight fit in the MR11 housing (slightly smaller than a Lumi housing - just to give an idea (I don't think running the thermal @ 60C would matter, its just you can't burn your hand @ 50C!)
[img] [/img]
[img] [/img]

Nice conversion that snaps.

the heatsink i have found is 6mm thick, but with the XPG's running at 680ma it should be plenty to take heat away from the LED's and transmit it into the case.

also noticed that the cutter triple XPG's are less money than the older XRE's?

Yes, I converted about 9 of those halogens for my friends & I just over a year ago, I want to do a few more using XPG's but the lack of decent optics is making me wait.
The XPG's will run @ 700mA giving me 30% extra run time or I might just use smaller batteries - >2000 lumens is plenty so I won't need to run them any higher - should run cooler as well.
I'm getting over 3 hours out of a 2200mAh battery using the low (350mA setting) for climbing.
[img] [/img]

As Teetosugars says If anyone cracks the Lumi-LED conversion and fancies earning a few quid, then give me a shout aswell...email in profile

As asked before, if anybody has a triple MR11 (35mm) LED board they are not using I would love to try it ASAP. I will replace it with a new one from Cutter. I should be able to prove if the design works (or not) in a week or so.

I think it will be 3 weeks minimum before the cutter order gets to these shores.

What are the problems with the optics for the XPG's?

Confirms my thoughts snaps . . . no need for an external heatsink . . . good stuff . . .

Incidentally, how are you mounting the bflex in the can ?

Fd

I had that cutter kit fitted to an old lumi lamp (driver board cut down and part of a 2p coin as a heat sink) - it's great. Much brighter and longer lasting than the halogen. It's the medium optic, which gives a great flood for a close combat helmet mount. Going to order a narrow for a bar light (I've two batteries) and use it in place of the HID - I like being able to turn lights on and off.
Teeto & erny - I can ask the guy who did mine if he will do others - he may do it for £10 a pop or so (not sure how long it took him).

p.s. didn't need a new switch as that driver board only has on/off (no dimming levels)

What are the problems with the optics for the XPG's?

Incidentally, how are you mounting the bflex in the can ?

Do all your soldering & testing then just a small squirt of expanding builders foam to cushion/insulate/stick the board in place behind the heatsink.

Right gents here are the heatsinks i've found

[img] [/img]

they are 6mm thick if you file the boss off & 33mm in diameter (perfect fit into the lumi can) and it needs a flat filing on the dia to clear the flat on the bottom of the lumi can.

It's even drilled for the wires to go to the LED's.

bought from here

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170397834435&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

the driver is here

[img] [/img]

Must thank troutie for this as it's he that directed me to this guy.
I will contact him and find out what size of resistor to use to allow 2 x settings (1 x 680ma and 1 x 350ma) with a 2 position switch you should esily be able to switch between low and high. If you want to switch it off unplug the power connector.

Just looked on Ebay and the guy seems to have sold all the 3w 680ma drivers. I'll mail him to see when he is getting some more into stock.

I have two sets of lumi's and would love to upgrade to something brighter. If you can do a conversion then I am in!

Man, this whole thing quickly gets quite complicated.

Just found that driver on ebay that you posted a pic of....how come that is so cheap compared to the Cutter MR11 drivers? I guess because the Cutter ones are more 'intelligent' and come with software (edit - actually I think it's just internal firmware) that lets you fiddle with settings etc.
The eBay driver looks like a similar version to the basic cutter one that is too big for the cans.

And looking at the triple LED kits - there's quite a lot to choose from. What optic type for a start. Then there's the LEDs - there's tons of XPE's; are they all the same lumen ouput, just different tints? And how about the XPGs? Is it worth waiting for some dedicated optics?
And then presumably the mcpcb you specify is the round series only?!

Presumably the heatsink will attach the the back of the LED board to keep the temp of them down. Does any consideration need to be made to keeping the driver board cool too?

The driver on ebay is cheaper than Bflex from cutter because it drives at a single current like the cheaper one on Cutters site. (that won't fit a lumi halogen can)

The Bflex allows you to set max current, temp trip, and has 5 settings for various light levels. In other words yes more complicated.

Given the concern over the optics for the XPG's then probably a triple XRE R5 leds on a 35mm PCB and the cutter narrow optic is the way to go. I have this set up in a Lumi HID can and it works well.

and yip the heatsink attaches to the back of the ally LED board with heat transfer paste. The main task is to transfer the heat from the LED board to the outside of the lamp case as efficiently as possible.

I don't think you need to consider keeping the driver cool. I have not heard of any problems with them. You do however have to electrically insulate them to stop them shorting on switches or the lamp body. I just wrap mine in insulation tape. Some people use heatshrink to cover them.

I think the most important feature of the bflex is that it fits in an MR11 can!
You don't have to worry about the temp of the board because its got its own temp monitoring built in & it won't allow you to overdrive the LEDs because of the software controlled current regulator.
In that pic of my lights above I use a pair of quad XRE R2's one with medium & one with narrow optic on the bars & a triple with narrow on the helmet with seperate batteries so if I get a failure, I'm not relying on a single light.
I might be tempted to do some convertions but it'll take a while for the parts to come through from Cutter.

Chucky, i have one you can borrow but its a Q4 IIRC, do you need to borrow an optic too??

That will be spot Kinda666. and yes i'll need the optic as well.

I'll mail you at home tonight and we can sort it out from then if that's OK.

Yeah no worries Dave, i'll be at work but can access my email on my phone! 🙂

Does anyone know where you can get pre soldered driver boards for the 3 LED cutter kits?
I made a right mess of soldering my bflex board + so it can cut out. Want to start again with one of those better heat sinks + a pre soldered board so I can't cock it up. Any ideas appreciated. Ta

Taskled in the states make the bflex.

give him an e mail (george) great guy very helpful. he may be able to sort one out for you.

[url] http://www.taskled.com/ [/url]

cheaper than cutter too

Right, I've been measuring up & there's not enough room in a Lumi can for a Cutter kit unless:
1. you replace the switch with a much lower profile one or have it on a flying lead.
2. you do likewise with the power plug.
There simple isn't enough room for the control board in the can, you could remote mount the board in the battery or have an intermediate control box to house the board & switches but then you lose the thermal bonding facility.
My other concern is that a Lumi can is very thin & the housings I use are only just able to provide enough material to dissipate the heat. You could fit those finned heatsinks from RC car motors to the outside of the Lumi housing but I wouldn't like the idea of 'fin to face interface' in case of a crash!
The good news is I've got some of the housing I use & will price up the cost of converting to triple & quad Cutter kits for use with most existing battery types.
In this pic from the right you can see my conversions, 3 extended cans I made for an upcoming 1000 lumen HID profect, then a Lumi can & finaly a Trailtech HID.
[img] [/img]

I mentioned the lack of space earlier in thread.

you can fit a Bflex driver in it's the new sqaure cheapo single current driver that won't fit.

Also a lot of people have been running these at 1 amp with no heatsink and not had problems, as long as you switch to a lower power when stationary. I would not run without some form of heatsink/heattransfer block but the more you look into it the more i think they do not have to be that big.

as long as they make good contact with the casing they should be fine.

If anyone cracks the Lumi-LED conversion i'd also be willing to pay someone with the knowledge to do the conversion, there's not a hope in hell of me being able to do it 🙄 got the 12w&20w halogen set up at the mo, have ordered a set of dx lights, (bar mounted) so only looking to convert 1 lamp to led.. for use on the helmet

Please.

If someone does come up with an idiot-proof drop-in conversion (at a reasonable price) then I'd also be interested.

idiot-proof

bit of a tall order that one.

i'll try my best 🙂

Cutter kit with medium optic . . .

Optic + triple LED MCPCB protrudes 13.5mm into the case
Power connector can be reduced to about 11mm depth with some tab bending
Case is 40.5mm deep

You need to replace the switch anyway for a momentary, I have one which would work at 11mm depth (same as the power connector).

Bflex is 8.5mm deep (I want to use one for my kit)

13.5+8.5+11=33mm, which leaves 7mm for a heat transfer slug . . .

it will fit, but after doing some tests today I cannot believe I can run 3 x XPG's at 1 amp and not have overheating issues in a lumi can . . . however I also have a couple of lumi HID cases which are much larger and perfect for the job . . .

The heat generation is only a problem at 1 amp, at 750mA the heat output is substantially reduced and it would probably be ok without an external heatsink . . .

However, fit an external heatsink and it should work . . .

Very much a viable option and probably cheaper than a new HID bulb for HID owners . . .

3 x XPG's consume 10W which is pretty much identical to a lumi HID, now I have a test rig working I'm gonna do some illumination comparisons, if it ever stops raining . . .

Fd

epicsteve - Member

If someone does come up with an idiot-proof drop-in conversion (at a reasonable price) then I'd also be interested.

+1

I've found that 12mm is the smallest heat transfer slug that dosen't cause over heating @1amp in my housings & they are made of 50% thicker alloy than Lumis & I'd like to think the control board was not in danger of rubbing up against the terminals of the switch or power socket while bouncing down a rocky decent.
HID lamps can be had for as little as £53 or upgraded to 1000 lumens for about £110 & the Lumi HIDs produce 10W of output, they consume nearly 14W

have to agree Lumi HID housings are perfect IMHO.

Trouble is they won't sell em anymore

here's mine

[img] [/img]

[img] [/img]

I've a cutter 3 LED with the current cheapo (big) driver - filed down - fitted into a Lumi can. Not sure what the heat sink is, but I know it involves a 2P piece (or part thereof), and it gets warm stationary in the house, but out on the trail - no problem.
A mate built it and I'm running it as a helmet light. Going to build the other can up with the narrow optic as a bar light - will try to get pics of build.
Uses original switch too!

Chucky i've got a trailtech housing unit if you can convert that?

Cheers Chucky.

Without bulk import the HID bulbs are more costly though, and you will pay repeatedly for a HID bulb whereas an LED conversion is ball park the same cost (perhaps less) but much more robust . . .

I'll probably put the XPG kit I am testing at the moment in a HID case and run them side by side with a HID for a while before committing to any more work . . .

My power testing rig shows a lumi HID consuming 11W steady state . . .

I remember when I made some lights out of a huge gel lead acid battery with some MR16 lamps in plumbing fittings . . . times have changed . . . 😉

Fd

is it a HID housing erny?

would think something could be done if it is. Snaps has a piccie of one a bit earler in the thread. The black one on the right.

it's finding someone with a lathe is my problem. Hence why I was chuffed to find the 33mm dia ones from ebay. They only need filing down slightly to fit the Halogen housing.

do you want to send it to me to see if it's doable (I think it should be )

fergus what's the rough cost of doing this conversion?

Well, the 3 x XPG solution produces far more light than the lumi HID, two images same focal length, aperture, shutter speed and ISO so a reasonable comparison of brightness, the LED beam is much brighter but also wider, a very brief look in the real world outside seems to suggest that you would never want to use a HID when you can just about replace one bulb with this setup for approx the same cost . . . if you have a can . . . the LED solution is almost bang on 10 Watts and I got 3.93 hours at full power out of a standard 13.2V lumi NiMh battery with shutdown at 0.9V per cell . . . the HID consumes more power, produces less light, this is with the medium cutter triple optic, I'd go for a narrow however this is bright enough that it's not such a huge deal I think . . .

HID http://www.flickr.com/photos/ziplockk/4083595720/
LED http://www.flickr.com/photos/ziplockk/4082835225/

Whether this will work in a small can is debatable, however using a smaller and simpler fixed output regulator and lower current LED's may produce a more viable option . . . trouble is the taskled ones seem to be the most efficient and best of the crop . . .

Fd

I really want to use XPGs @ 700mA to replace my XPE R2s but the lack of a dedicated optic is making me wait (that & the fact that I get over 3 hours & over 2000 lumens from my XREs @ 1000mA) It would be nice to get the same light & runtime from smaller batteries with cooler running.
Have you seen the new generation of HIDs?
http://www.solarc.net/ click on 'lamp' the figures are impressive.
Compared to my XREs the seem to 'throw' more much better penetration.
I've two on order to play with.

Kinda666 rekons his XPG triple with the usual cutter triple narrow optic are spot on. He does run them at 1amp though

fergus if i can pick up a hid can would you be interested in undertaking a conversion? if your interested and want to discuss it e-mail is in profile, i'm only half an hour down the road from you. Need to get some better lighting sorted out for doing the puffer.

jim

Ok . . .

Spent some time on this . . .

For anybody interested in lumi HOD conversion . . .

Here are some measurements that will be useful, apologies for the handwriting . . .

http://www.flickr.com/photos/ziplockk/4089128329/

The green part is the bit that needs made . . . and I shall fire up the lathe this week and do so . . .

Measurements are correct for the cutter MR11 kit with medium optic, I'm not sure whether the spot optic is the same size but I'll probably order one and see . . . one spot and one flood is my preference . . .

Basically the lumi HID case makes things easy with a nice step in the interior making the slug design very simple, 20mm thick, 10mm at 35.5mm and 10mm at 37.8mm with a small hole (5mm) through the centre for the power supply to the LEDS . . . loads of room for a bFlex too the interior of the front of the case is not a simple profile so I'm not looking for a tight fit, but the rear part is a cylinder so the 35.5mm part with some thermal compound should provide a perfect thermal path to the case which itself is nice and chunky . . . I will be bonding the mcpcb and slug together and the optic onto the mcpcb and also using just a touch of silicone sealer to waterproof the optic . . .

I'll be replacing the standard switch with a waterproof momentary one from RS

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=283-8986

Does away with the wee rubber things that I always seem to break . . .

All useful data . . .

Costing, parts are less than a lumi HID bulb from lumi, but more than 50 quid . . . time, well you wouldn't do it if you were paying for your time would you 😉

Fd

My thinking for an extension tube was this:

rear view:

[IMG] [/IMG]

front view:

[IMG] [/IMG]

the recess on the rear view is threaded & would screw onto the threads on the normal lumi halogen can. The driver would sit in the back of the can & wires pass through the hole into the front.
The front view shows where the optic & mcpcb would sit. I added some holes to the front flange (that is thicker than the others) to add some kind of front face. I am guessing this would be required to hold the optic in place.
OD of fins might be a bit too much but just a starting point, really.

Did this while I had a spare 10 mins at work one day, and keep meaning to progress it a bit further.

[img] [/img]

[img] [/img]

[img] [/img]

[img] [/img]

[img] [/img]

[img] [/img]

Now to think about a smaller version for standard lumi cans although case temp would perhaps be an issue ? . . . This setup with 3 x XGP at 1A stabilises at about 55C in a 18C environment in still air . . . what regulators were used in the other lumi sized conversions ?

I successfully put a cutter kit in a lumi can with the switch in situ and a 5 mm plate to mount the led on.

TJ, what LED's and regulator did you use ?

Fd

cutter triple r2 IIRC. Narrow beam optic and a bflex

fergusd, is that a standard Lumi HID casing, just with your added heatsink block?
Presumably the tapered front face has a lip on to secure the optic? Is this sealed with an o-ring?

That sounds about right as my XREs trip the thermal @ 50C driven @ 1A in 14C ambient after about 5 minutes & the XPGs should run cooler.
My NGX HID ballasts & lamps turned up today so I'm off to my shed 🙂

Chucky - interested in converting a Trailtech headunit as I have one knocking about following a tree/hid interface which the bulb didn't survive. What heatsinking did you use, as the head unit is plastic in those lights, and I think partially responsible for their short life.

Question, what would people think about a super simple conversion . . . no fancy bFlex gubbins, one power setting (full) and no power switch . . .

Everything you can remove from the case makes the smaller conversions better . . . ie. less marginal on the heating front . . .

Just thinking out loud . . . a very simple 1A fixed constant current regulator could be better from a packaging POV than a bFlex . . . also a lot cheaper . . .

On the HID case coversion, yes, standard lumi HID case, the front of the case is lipped but I'm not using an O ring, just the thinnest layer of silicone, better solution as it doesn't recess the optic as much, front ID is almost a perfect fit with the MR11 sized optic . . . the pics above are all there is to it apart from the bFlex in the rear of the can, the HID case has LOADS of room in the back . . . very easy . . .

Fd

is there a group order going in. The postage is horrendous if you just need a handfull of items?

I'm off to spain Tomorrow (can't bloody wait).

when i get back early next week i'll put the order into Cutter mikey.

I'll mail you before hand to see what you want.

That driver off e-bay and a 6-8mm heatsink (maybe even thicker) will go into the back of a halogen can if you take the switch and power connector out.

The heatsink I have (also off ebay) is 5mm thick, whick I think is more than enough to run at 750ma.

cost if using a cutter triple XRE, optic, driver and heatsink = £38.

£34 if you use a XPG, and a cutter XRE optic. That should give close on 800lumens when run at the 750ma

Fergusd, if the light was able to run 2 -2.5hrs at full power then I would be interested in two conversions (my son and I). I like simplicity, plus maybe you could put an inline on/off switch in anyway?

Chucky, I'm sure some heatsinks could pop off a lathe to your spec, you will need 33mm diameter to fit in a standard lumi case, prob cheaper than ebay . . . I could probably even mill off a flat to clear the mounting rivnut . . .

If there's a way of saving on postage from cutter, would be interested in adding to an order if poss . . .

Some pics

[img] [/img]
20W Halogen Spot

[img] [/img]
Lumi HID

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3 x XPG@1A, Medium Op

Again all identical exposures

Hope to get out for a night ride tomorrow depending on weather and my cold status 😉

Fd

If you can turn me some heatsinks that would be great.

Can i get in touch next week?

I'll get in contact with everyone next week for a joint cutter order, if thats OK with everybody.

Wouldn't mind a quad XPG, hope they have the optics sorted by the time we order.

I'd like the quad too. Any heat sink that really fits would be great as a kind of insurance for the cost of the LED's.

I was going to use the quad in my HID light and a triple in the halogen can. Heatsink is much bigger in HID, just like fergusds