Right then, my trailtech/The rush HID has expired (well the switch has).
So rather than buying a new head, or ditchiing it i decided to investigate an LED conversion....and have come up with a load of confusion.
Had a look at the cutter website and a search on here but to no avail.
So is there such a thing as a simple MR11 / LED conversion that can use my 14.6 NiMH battery or a guide somehwere?
I am not afraid of a ssoldering iron and understand ohms law etc so any advice that can clarify what is needed would be appreciated...
[url= http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/lumicycle-halogen-to-led-conversion-with-piccies-and-a-step-by-step-guide ]All you could ever wish to know is here[/url]
As I had a Lumicycle battery when my Rush HiD gave up the ghost, I invested in a Lumicycle Led3 head unit and I'm very happy with it.
But I mended the switch succesfully twice. If smoke and a funny smell was coming out of it, then it's dead. But if it's just tempemental, or has stopped working then the 4 very flimsy terminals should be the prime suspects. The wires are just laid on to the circuit board, then solder is dabbed on. Flexing the cable can fracture the wires. Use a stanley blade to take the switch apart, re-solder all the joints and superglue/tape it back together. I used a piece of plastic as a splint to stop the cable flexing.
thanks to woody2000, now have bits of PCB, LEDs, wires and various bits of aluminium in various shapes where my old HiD used to be!
Just struggling to find a source for the power connectors that came on the light or a replacement pair with that neat locking ring built in.
Tried RS, Maplin Farnell Raopid bnut can find nothing suitable, anyone able to post a link to a supplier of something secure and reasonably weather proof?
Also andyone know of a supplier of a 38mm diamter heatsink?
Cheers
For LED boards and drivers in an MR11 size try;-
http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut757
Thanks, i have the LEds and the drivers and the optic from cutter, its just the asociated bits and bobs that are casuing me issues.
If i have to i can get a heatsink made, but the cable connectors are a source of headache
I did the conversion on the trailtech for somebody off here. the only thing you will need is a bespoke heatsink.
all the rest of the instructions are as the link below
don't have any heatsinks left to you...
Sorry no I don't. The one I did on the Trailtech one was made as a bespoked one, and I'm sorry i don't remember what size it was. 🙁
If i recall correctly the one I had was machined to just fit inside the can (tighter the better) and was approx 10-15mm long.
You need to measure from the inside face of the bezel to the point were the can starts to get smaller in dia and subtract the length of a PCB board and the optic from that.
If you can hollow out the rear of the heatsink like on my HID conversions that will give more room for the driver.
I used the same switch and cable holes as in the original.
sorry I can't remember anymore
I don't understand your problem with the connectors.
If you use a flying lead like on the original lamp than the only thing you need is a switch and cover as I used in my halogen and HID conversions that are linked above.
I wanted to have the switch on the back of the can (my Hid switch is broken), and if i cut the stumpy bit off the original it will be too short once fed into the can to be neat.
If i have to i will, but whilst i was at it thought i'd try and do a neat job, adding the led as well, though if i keep the switch on the lead then the led will be a nicer fit on the back of the can.
The quandry of just getting it done vs doing a nice job....