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It really depends how solid the rest of it is, tbh.
On a 'standard' shed door then it'll be overkill because they can just kick the door in.
I used a pair of these on my beach hut;
[url= http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/321045185892?hlpht=true&ops=true&viphx=1&lpid=95&device=c&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=95&ff19=0 ]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/321045185892?hlpht=true&ops=true&viphx=1&lpid=95&device=c&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=95&ff19=0[/url]
they go inside the door and as long as you reinforce where the points they're mounted at and put them at 1/3 and 2/3 the way up the door they make it a lot more kick resistant. Plus because the whole thing is inside it's more weather resistant as well.
I ran 4x2 up the side of the door and drilled holes in that for the bolts to go into and the whole lot was reinforced with metal banding.
you can kind of see how they were mounted in this shot;
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I haven;t got pictures of the other side but it was similar sized bits of wood.
I went for this on my new garage, fixed with coach bolts as are the door hinges.
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I'm struggling to find 110 or 120mm bolts (countersunk)
Can't help, I bought the lock but the garage builder brought the bolts and fitted it.
the plate the great ape shows - has square holes in for coachbolt heads ?
Yes
I have the federal hasp and a kryptonite(lookalike) aswell ..
More locks the better 🙂