Old set of Reba SL's and the spring that returns the lockout when you release the compression lever isn't working. I had a google and it seems to be a common issure caused by gunk in the top cap. Cleaned all this out and still no good. Removed the compression damper, cleaned it all up and I can turn the lockout by hand and it springs back no problem.
Cleaned everything and reassembled, still not working but I found if i back the assembly out of the leg a 1/4 turn it works OK, nearly every time. 1/2 a turn out and it seems fine.
Anybody got any ideas what could be causing this? I phoned TF tuned in the week who said post the damper to them and they could sort it - but it seems like the problem might be elsewhere. The valve opens and closes normally at the bottom, but I can override the spring quite easily by putting my finger on the bottom of the valve. It's quite scratched - could it be touching something in the bottom of the upper which is causing friction? This kind of ties in with it not working when fully screwed in as the valve will be lower then.
Any other ideas?
Clean it up around the top,drip a drop of oil in at the edge of where the shaft rotates/passes the stationary part of the cartridge (I have used rock and roll cable magic on a few and it seems to help )Put cap on by hand and rotate it half a dozen times and also give it a wee rock back and forth to let the oil get around the edge of it.
Re-assemble it all and instead of tightening the cable as tight as you can by pulling it by hand,set it so that when you hit the lever on the bars.. the amount of cable pull will NOT pull it the full amount of it's rotation. Just let it rotate it ever so slightly less than full rotation when in locked out position. You will find that one that functions well will work properly even with it not fully rotating. You might sort it without having to send it off for repair/warranty by doing this. Worth a shot!
The cable tension setup seems to be more worthwhile for me in the past over the actual cleaning and lubing of it.
How much grunt should the spring really give? It returns fine by hand, the problem is when you install the remote cable, the spring doesn't seem to have enough to pull the cable back to return to unlocked. It just needs the slightest touch to help it along but it's still useless as you may as well have crown lockout if you have to touch it each time!
I've just cleaned and greased the cable but still not playing ball - maybe it's just the spring isn't springy enough.
My 2012 Rebas definitely feel like the spring has more pull than these.