[Closed] Ragley td-1

[url= http://sports.webshots.com/album/577588805ZpvYax ]more detail pics here [/url]

Very nice - think it would have to be geared for me, but looking good. Is this a prototype or a production machine?

this is the production one,,it arrived this week,

hey...those wheels look familiar.
nice lookin' build, by the way.

yep stan the frame took a little longer to arrive than expected they are nice wheels tubless now

just one more pic

[URL= http://inlinethumb59.webshots.com/46330/2487340590036898833S600x600Q85.jp g" target="_blank">http://inlinethumb59.webshots.com/46330/2487340590036898833S600x600Q85.jp g"/> [/IMG][/URL]

How does it ride? Very intrigued by the concept of the lower front end/shorter forks.

well the prototypes have been very sucsessfull ,,, i have only had a quick spin but so far it's great

it was designed for this length fork

fantastic looking bike!

My mate just bought a Ragley and I'm very very jealous of him (and you) now!!

Looks properly lovely!

I'm guessing it weighs pretty much nowt!? 🙂

havn't weighed it yet,, but it needs tieing down to stop it floating away

I'm guessing it weighs pretty much nowt!?

With those wheels? I doubt it 😉

Looks lovely though - I like the non suspension corrected - bold move though!

first time I've seen one apart from mine and Dave's. Nice one. Enjoy flying around on it ;0)
[img] [/img]

lush. silly handlebars though...

Go on mister, pull us a wheelie, wots it like on mountinz?

Giz us a ride report...go on, go on!

The bit I'm not sure about is if the shorter forks make the front end less comfy than the normal longer 29er rigid forks??

i will get out on it this weekend,, it;s in the kitchen goading me into taking it out,,
just got back from the first open water swim of the year,, bloody cold ,, i'll keep you all posted

i wont be able to compare the short forks for you as i have only ridden full sus since 1999 , but it has got tubless 2.4 tyres so they should have some compliance

i still love that bike - finaly got the pictures i asked for 4 months ago 😀 the drop outs wont really like taking a rack - Old man mountain itd have to be.

kinda been put off the idea of a(nother) 29er by aiden though - will have to see.

Forgive my ignorance of geometry but is there a great difference between this and a fat tyred cross bike? I'm intrigued.

I presume much bigger tyre clearance, stonger?

so non corrected for suspension = super titchy or because it's corrected = relaxed?

It's quite quick. 72deg head, but 29ers are very stable at speed due to wheel mass/gyroscopes innit.

Looks sweet.

So is that a no then? or a yes? nice looker either way....

[b]but 29ers are very stable at speed due to wheel mass/gyroscopes innit[/b]

they don't turn well then? 😉

only joking, my 29er turns nicely with the rigid fork

so non corrected for suspension = super titchy or because it's corrected = relaxed?

Quick, in a race-y sort of way. Nice, involving...and other such cliches 😉

Forgive my ignorance of geometry but is there a great difference between this and a fat tyred cross bike? I'm intrigued.

Cross bikes often feel like modified, more capable road bikes. This feels nothing like that...best way I can describe it is that where, on a cross bike you might approach something rocky (think 3 Peaks style descents) and go "whoa, better keep it under control here" with this you'll be thinking what you would on any decent mtb, ie "yay, lets try and fly though this".

That probably makes no sense. Oh well!

mocha - Member
Forgive my ignorance of geometry but is there a great difference between this and a fat tyred cross bike? I'm intrigued.

I guess it depends what you call a fat tyred cross bike. Between a 'regular' cross bike and something like this then yes, there is a world of difference, and it's not solely due to tyre clearance. In general, a cross bike will have steeper angles, higher bottom brackets, shorter chain stays, shorter top tubes, longer head tubes - not to mention drop bars and brakes that don't work awfully well.

Once you start getting into the realm of 'monstercross' bikes and drop-barred 29er mountain bikes then the distinction becomes more blurred. But the TD-1 is a long way from a standard cross bike.

so TD-1 or Pegasus? hmmmmm 😉

Yeah. Cheers for that. So they're just bikes for riding then?

😉

talking of which maybe I should go ride one...

Hold up - how many bolts/nuts do I need to adjust to vary chain tension? I make it 8. I can see why people prefer them over ebb's...

How often do adjust the chain tension on your bike?

I would have thought a reliable, finely adjustable and secure system would be the priority. Not speed of adjustment.

Not saying EBBs are not secure or reliable etc. Just that extra time to adjust is gonna make flap all difference in the scheme of things.

precisely - if they are otherwise equal why would you want the one which takes 5 times as long to adjust? I just know it would piss me off every time i went to adjust tension, however infrequent that may be... plus i'd need a little 10mm spanner which i wouldn't normally take with me riding.

so TD-1 or Pegasus? hmmmmm

precisely - if they are otherwise equal why would you want the one which takes 5 times as long to adjust? I just know it would piss me off every time i went to adjust tension, however infrequent that may be... plus i'd need a little 10mm spanner which i wouldn't normally take with me riding.

my EBB has never creaked and the dropout is geared or ss, no need to swap anything, damage to BB thread? not sure how a EBB would make that more likely

but for balance i can tell you i've got a wanga with similar dropouts to the TD-1, i set them up 2 years ago and haven't needed to adjust them since, it's vertical droput so wheel comes out like a egular bike

on the drop out side i love them , very secure and easy to adjust ,, a little scale etched on each side might be a good idea so you you can get the wheel straight quickly

went out for a quick ride,, it's great on the single track ,,
not sure i have the gearing right yet currently 36/20 normaly ride 36/18 on little wheeler ,, or maybe i was just faster as it felt undergeared i had forgotten how hardtails bob on their tyres when you get up over 90rpm
need to get smoother pedaling style

need to learn to manual over stuff spent too much time on preston where you just ride at stuff and let the suspension do the work,,

lovin' it back to my roots rigid kona ciner cone 1987

Thinking while I was out riding. I think I've got it now. Lower racier front end. Slacker head tube angle to make it ride like an mtb and not like a cross bike. I think?

36:19 will be better.

Looks ace Ade; perfect Race Weapon.

Got the bar angle sorted out?

You can swap the ugly tensioner bolt for a normal (5mm thread)4mm allen key headed bolt. I also did away with the locknut, just nip up the dropout and tighten the adjuster into it to stop it rattling loose.

(Mine are on a Lynskey SS which share the same drop-outs and are about a year old). They do work very well.

i think i need a 29 rear wheel with an alfine in it for bigger days out ,,

Yeah can't help but think a pair ofgeared sliding dropouts would have given it more appeal/usefulness.

Looks good, I have tried the alfine and not too sure they are the answer, they feel a bit draggy compared to a mech based setup

pair ofgeared sliding dropouts

Yes, it comes with sliding geared dropouts

Yeah can't help but think a pair ofgeared sliding dropouts would have given it more appeal/usefulness.

It comes with a disc side sliding dropout, a gear side dropout with a gear hanger, and a gear side plain SS hanger too.

i do have a whyte preston with an alfine/ss changable setup and love the alfine especialy in the mud of winter ,,

so i have no doubts about the alfine hub,, might wait for the 11 speed one later in the year,, of get an 8 speed one as iexpect the prices to drop soon

my frame came with both geared and SS hanger ,,

Ah, thought it was concieved as a purist thang! It's all clear now

I'd wait for the 11 speed alfine - it'll be lighter won't it?

Any news on the aluminium or steel version?

Unless my numbers come up shortly I think the titanium version will be out of my reach.

My frames, generally are combinations of dropouts, tubesets and geometries. We've got "headtubes" thrown in the mix this year too, and we're just nailing a few aspects on all of those, and then we can start to throw out some more versions and different versions of stuff we have now, and coming.

I don't expect that made sense, but it did in my head.

Looks fab and could tempt me into the world of big wheels...

I always think that with these sort of dropouts that it's the perfect solution on the brake-side, but that the drive-side is so much simpler with a track end and chaintug. How about some sort of mutant with a combination of both? 🙂

brant - Member

My frames, generally are combinations of dropouts, tubesets and geometries. We've got "headtubes" thrown in the mix this year too, and we're just nailing a few aspects on all of those, and then we can start to throw out some more versions and different versions of stuff we have now, and coming.

I don't expect that made sense, but it did in my head.

Clear as mud!! 🙂

Translated as your working on it?

I always think that with these sort of dropouts that it's the perfect solution on the brake-side, but that the drive-side is so much simpler with a track end and chaintug. How about some sort of mutant with a combination of both?

there really is no need at all to change them. Mine has been faultless from day one.

Glad to hear it! The problem I always had with my Kona's sliders was that the dropouts weren't vertical. There were slightly front-facing to make it easier to get the wheel out with the chain under tension, but that meant you had to clamp the axle nuts down REALLY tight to stop the wheel pulling out under power or when doing fixie skids...

i think these dropouts are better than those with slotted mounts for brake calipers,,

as you dont have to realign your caliper when you adjust your chain ,

Agree but I'd prefer a track-end on the drive-side if I were spec'ing my own build 🙂

Agree but I'd prefer a track-end on the drive-side if I were spec'ing my own build

Would that not need asymmetrical stays?

Would that not need asymmetrical stays?