[Closed] Raceface Narrow Wide Users - General Question

Mine would only fit with the lairy graphics facing outwards. It is designed to be run this way hence the recess for the bolts to fit, but I have seen a pic/report somewhere of it being run the other way around.

Doh!

That would make sense!!

Cheers

No one sees the lairy graphics when it's caked in mud

I have mine mounted with the lairy graphics hidden on the inside, they are hideous. It works absolutely fine for me like that.

If you are running a chain device then depending on the device you can only run the ring with the lairy graphics showing, the other side has the counter sunk area which will stop the bolts hitting off the chain device, if you're not running a chain device then you can have the ring ether way as the bolts will have nothing to hit off, it shouldn't make any difference to the chain line

I have 30t can only be mounted one way, graphics facing outwards.

I run my one in the middle ring position with recesses pointing towards the frame and a bash guard, works fine.

Yep had the same problem, so turned it round works fine.

Cheers everyone, interesting to hear different opinions.

I've just removed the taco and lower roller from my E13 LG1 guide and was going to run the top guide only.

Even though I'll be running an XO short cage clutch mech with the NW ring I'm not 100% confident that I won't drop the chain, or should I just remove the guide all together?

Is this combo really that good at chain retention?

I have run mine both ways around - initially with lairy graphics on the inside to accommodate my old triple chainset chainring bolts (the lack of a recess this way around meant they fitted OK), now with proper single ring bolts I have it the other way around.

The tightwad in me thinks that maybe once the chainring is 'hooked' in one direction after wear and tear, I might be able to reverse it and eke some more life out of it!

Anyone have an opinion on this - not sure if it would just be chainsuck hell or not..................

Enduro Kid

I use the Works Components version and kept the top guide initially. I finally bit the bullet and went for it without as I had a few solo rides in a row planned.

No issue whatsoever Don't even think about it now.

Make sure chain is as short as you can get away with.

Should have added XT shadow plus clutch mech. Worked ok even when I had the clutch in off a couple of times by accident (though would not recommmend this 🙂 )

I have two bikes, both with RF narrow/wide rings. One is lairy side out, one lairy side in. Both work the same.

@Taz.

Cheers for that, I'm guessing running a short cage mech with a clutch I'll experience very litle chain movement so while my crank is off I may as well go for it and remove the top guide too.

My chain is pretty short as it is so all being well I won't have any issues with dropped chains.

Other experiences will be good to hear too.

I can't get my head round how expensive these are.

I run a simple (top) chain guide properly fitted which allows me to use any size single ring and change whenever I want. I cant remember the last time I dropped a chain either (once properly aligned).

dont get me wrong I WOULD have one in a flash. not at 45 quid though for something that will wear out.

I run mine with graphics out (I quite like them, but then again I have Easton wheels) with no chain device and a short cage X9 clutch mech and I've not dropped a chain yet. I'm sold on the idea.

With regards to cost, they're not cheap (I paid £40 for mine) but you do save on a chain guide which are hideously expensive. It also allowed me to sort my chain line out because my E13 guide on ISCG05 tabs wouldn't work with my Race Face cranks unless it was massively spaced out.

On the flip side, branded chainrings aren't cheap. Look at how much a Race Face team ring costs.

I know it is all in the legs, but has anyone bought a 32T and wished they had gone for a 30T, or vice versa? I am thinking my dodgy knees may thank me for the 30T.

Is there much of a muchness between the RF and Works Components rings other than £10?

Before I moved to 1X10 I was running 1X9 with a 34 upfront and 11/32 out back. I managed to ride anything & everything but the climbs were tough to say the least, but I still managed to get to the top slowly!!

Now I've moved to 1x10 I run a 32 upfront with an 11/36 outback, IMHO I feel this set up is ideal for any UK trail centre or local natural riding.

I started with a 34 tooth ring which I found fine in the summer but as things get wetter and heavier going I've dropped to a 32 tooth which seems ok. There are times when I wonder what a 30 tooth would be like, but I think I'm ok as it is for now.

I started with a 32 x 11-36 set up, but switched to a 30T (on a 29er, so add 10% back for wheel size, is akin to a 33T front, sort of)

I just found having the 30T gave me a bit more before really having to grunt, conversely not having quite such a big top gear has been barely noticeable.

Zee clutch mech here, haven't lost a chain yet and I've hit some very rough stuff hard to try and get it off. Stuff that I would have lost a chain on without a lower guide thats for sure. on my old 9 speed set up.

I am on 34T and it is fine but has become more of an issue as the winter has kicked in. My climbs are generally short and steep so you can grind up them. For longer climbs I think this would be too heavy a gear for me on long days out. Next one will be 32T or it may even be a 30T. I rarely use the 11 on a 34T so a lower bottom gear would be of higher benefit.

RF vs Works - Price and RF go to 30T (works only go to 32)

Hora - I hear you but the benefits of lower weight, less drag and cleaner look (IMO) are all worth it. The WC version has seen 6 months use and it looks in pretty good nick to me. I do maintain my bike well and change chains regularly but I have ridden loads in the last 6 months in all weathers (hmmm why am I not fitter then :?:)

I agree Taz, having no guide up front does look clean and that is definitely the look iI'm going for!

I also agree that the cost of a NW ring is far less than a guide, plus there will be less drag and much less wear across your chain, casstte and ring so all being well you should get a hell of a lot of use out of your £40 ring!!

Ok go on then- where can I find the cheapest place for an instock 30T one?

BET THERES NOWHERE!!!!

I used a Works ring with no guide and a non clutch xt rear mech around Peaslake, Surrey and never dropped a chain. Save a tenner and go for the Works. Made in the UK too (support British industry).

@Hora, cheapest I found that had 30T RF NW in stock was CRC @ £40.49.

Would be surprised if you found cheaper TBH.

blackspire now have a 30T one
http://dirt.mpora.com/fresh-produce/blackspire-add-mono-veloce-narrowwide-chainrings-to-their-lineup.html
i thought works were doing one now too?

Cheapest instock CR 30T one is 45

Works is 32T - no 30T's

I love Blackspire stuff(I'm running a 32T one 1x9 at the mo)- will have a look round.

Do you see how quickly you guys twisted my arm there?

Hora, its the future, I hope 🙄

As soon as my current blackspire ring/chain is worn out I'll pick one up 😀

Merlin, £39.95, all colours.

+1 for never dropping the chain...

Think i could do with some tabs for mine, don't like the noise when I'm in 1st/2nd, bit of a grinding noise! Think the chain line could be better.

Fitted mine to a SLX crankset.

@mkidley.

Can you remove a BB spacer on the drive side to get a better chain line?

I'm running a Zee single specific crank so hoping I'll have a good chainline from the off.

Soory for the thread jack but i have a RF n/w chain-ring and was wondering whether i definately need a clutch mech for the rear and can i use a 10 speed clutch-mech on a 9 speed rear?

I've heard people say that they use a NR with a standard mech with no issues but I've have had no experience myself, I'm sure someone can advise?

Anecdotally have run a clutch mech accidentally with clutch off with no issues. However,I reckon a clutch mech is the best drivetrain improvement of recent years, and if you offered me a deore clutch or an xt std mech I'd have the clutch every time.

And a 10spd rear mech won't work for 9 speed, although if you google it there is iirc a bodge with spacers on the leverage arm that can make it work, supposedly.

http://m.pinkbike.com/forum/listcomments/?threadid=148662

Here

What chains are people using?

I'll be using an XT chain, will this be ok or are there more specific chains to use?

I'm just using a Sram 10 speed chain. No issues whatsoever.

Also using a cheap sram 10 speed chain with no issues.

Sram here too. PC1051 I think.

Soory for the thread jack but i have a RF n/w chain-ring and was wondering whether i definately need a clutch mech for the rear and can i use a 10 speed clutch-mech on a 9 speed rear?

No, it'll work absolutely fine a normal rear derailleur although a clutch mech MAY allow you to get away without any front chain device. In my experience, clutch mechs are great for stopping noise / chain slap but I don't think they necessarily do all that much for chain retention. I suspect you will probably get away with a narrow-wide ring and a normal derailleur but I haven't tried it.

You can't* use a 10spd clutch mech on a 9spd cassette.

*there is a bodge using a SRAM 9spd shifter & shimano 10spd mech with some adaptation. Have a search.

Cool, feel better that people are using normal chains!

Just need to get my rear wheel back from the shop then I can get a ride in and test it out!!

Last night converted mine to 1x9 with a RaceFace 30T on to an SLX Double chainset

Did OK up the road a few turns

Will let you know how I get on tonight.

30t narrow wide ring
Non clutch slx rear mech
No chainguide

No chainslap and never dropped the chain

Nothing bodgy about running a 10-speed mech on 9-speed, with the right conversion anyway. Works like it was designed to. Nice side-effect of Shimano ripping off SRAM's ideas 😉

@MadBillMcMad

Do let me know, will be interested to see how you get on, cheers.

I've got a clutch mech and a N/W sitting in the house ready to go on my Five. I have been running a Bashguard for years and have kind of got used to well just bashing into things.

So who is running a bash with there N/W and what did you go for ?

I was thinking of something like this.

[url= http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=56&products_id=818 ]SS Slider[/url]

[img] [/img]

Not convinced a bash serves much of a purpose when there's only one ring.

I will be running XT M780 with a RF NW chainring I'm going to give it a go without any chain device, but wont be able to test it fully until Saturday, I will let you know how it goes..

honourablegeorge - Member
Not convinced a bash serves much of a purpose when there's only one ring.

Cheers 🙂

Do you reckon the chain gives enough protection ?

Not convinced a bash serves much of a purpose when there's only one ring.

Not sure, pre taco days of LG1's = lots of broken chainrings on the DH bike.

In fact the second time out on my current bike, got way too loose in a corner, kicked up a big rock & bent the XX1 front ring.

I had an old SRS+ that you can lose the lower half of, so you get the top guide & run that with a bashring. The chunks taken out of the bashring indicate it's doing something 🙂

tested last night @endurokid

1x9 with a RaceFace 30T on to an SLX Double chainset.
The 30T just, just fits with no grinding needed.

decided to leave the bashguard off, but kept the front mech on as a chain retention device. No idea if it was needed but I had no problems at all.

We did not do any monster climbs & only rode 20km as it was piss wet,
but all in all quite happy. Trying to get up Winter Hill could be a challenge though.

I've got a bash on mine (30t Wolftooth on XT cranks). There's not a lot of meat on a 30t 104bcd ring so I'm happy to have a wee bit of extra protection for my £50 investment.

I ditched a bash ring last year when I went to an open style guide and had no issues. However on new years eve, I ballsed up a rocky section in the Peaks and ground my chain against a rock. It seems ok.

If I was regularly riding rocky tech stuff, I'd get a bash especially if your bike has a low BB.

Other than that I've been really happy with my set up so far.

I've been running a RF NW for a few months now with Zee clutch mech and no chain guide or bash. All good news, shifts really well and no dropped chains even in rocky stuff. I started with a Zee shifter and then upgraded to a Saint but not sure I'd bother again if I had to pay full price. Just using a cheap SRAM 10 speed chain.

Only slight concern is not having a bash having got used to one over several years but so far no damage to chain or ring.

Whats longevity like with these? Riding in south wales drive train gets eaten pretty quickly.

How long before you lose the retention of the wide narrow teeth?

I've been using my narrow wide ring since late August and have have ridden is some pretty gtotty conditions and it seems to be holding up well. I live in the Midlands and it's pretty sandy, so when it gets wet it creates a lovely grinding paste.

I have no idea how long it will last really.

Had no chain loss issues on mine at all (Zee clutch) and am pretty happy with the gearing (32 11/36) for my riding which does not really involve any massive uphill slogs.

Only thing I have noticed is that in gritty mud (for example Swinley has a sandy grinding paste in the wet) it does get quite noisy, not sure if anyone else has noticed this?

Yes. Particularly in the lower gears (bigger cogs) at the back. I ascribe this to:

1/ Chainline is optimised for the middle of the cassette, and if anything a bit offset to the outer part (when looked at closely I reckon chain is straightest on mine in about cog 6)

2/ the tolerance is that much tighter with the wide teeth on the chainring, so there isn't as much space for the chain to exit the chainring at an angle and it therefore rubs more on the teeth as it exits.

3/ Being least optimised in Cogs 1 and 2 is when I get most noise, but also is when I'm going slowest and therefore hear more (less clattering / wind noise to cover it up)

^^^^^

Along the lines of what I was thinking, more material in contact = greater potential for noise. I can certainly live with it when taking into account all the other benefits (and the general lack of chainslap).

I've set my bike up with a 30 NW and 11-36 and a clutch mech. Not had a chance to try it yet but am hoping that I've got a low enough gear for when I'm goosed going up a massive hill at the end of an eight hour ride (30-36 is quite close to 22-28 which is the lowest gear I've ever used!).
Am keeping an old 44 ring on as a bash guard and for riding long flat sections (will just lift chain over by hand).

What are the recommendations for chain length when swapping to 1x10? I've just taken off my 38/26 double and put on a 32t up front (36 rear) - do I need to lose some links from the chain to get more tension? (RF n/w, xtr clutch)

currently using m785 cranks would like to use a 32t narrow wide ring but would like to use a bashguard, anyone know what's compatible?

localhero94 - Member
What are the recommendations for chain length when swapping to 1x10? I've just taken off my 38/26 double and put on a 32t up front (36 rear) - do I need to lose some links from the chain to get more tension? (RF n/w, xtr clutch)

I only had to remove one link, going from a triple chain set and long cage rear mech to a 32t and short cage SRAM XO clutch mech, both with a 11:36.

I've had zero problems on the two rides I've done with this setup so far.

Bought the E13 one to avoid RACEINYOURFACE gfx...

Any one running a bashguard on their xt m785 cranks with the narrow wide chainring?

Been running a Works 34t (made in England!) since May - very effective. Have a bashring too (running Zee cranks) which may help keep the chain on but I don't think I really need it.

Finally got my NW one and pimped it up with a KMC gold chain, need to remove a link or two but will see how it runs Sunday, looking forward to it!!

[IMG] [/IMG]

[IMG] [/IMG]

The chain on my Rune is quite slack, but there is a fair amount of growth under compression so I left it to be safe. I get a little bit of chain slap when it gets really bumpy but still not lost a chain yet. Not even when I went over the bars at the weekend.

There is a but of wear to the ring now. All the really wet gritty rides have scored the teeth, but it's still working well so I'm a happy bunny.

I was wondering how the rings would hold up after a few months use in a British winter!

I intend to change my chain every few months so may as well do the same with the ring.

Mines not dropping chains etc so I'll leave it until it does.

In all fairness it's not worn any more than my ali Hope chain ring did. I'm guessing that the scoring is because the chain sits tighter on the teeth so any grit (and there's lots of that at the moment) has no where to go.

I intend to change my chain every few months so may as well do the same with the ring.

I've been rotating three KMC X10L gold chains for the last year - really slows the wear to the cassette and chainring and jockey wheels. With the quick link pliers and no chain guide they're fast to change - hang up all three and whichever is shortest goes back on. I think three is overkill, will be alternative between two on the new bike.

First ride today and I'm mega impressed, not even a hint that I might loose the chain, I thought my dropper was the best thing on my bike but this set up blew me away!!!!

Think I'll order another KMC X10L for the tool box!!