A few months ago a friend who is originally from St Andrews suggested a group of us do this ride. I like to be organised and did a bit of research and couldn't find an awful lot about doing this on bikes. It is mentioned in a few threads on here but there's not much detail other than to say it was worth doing. YouTube wasn't much help either. So having done the ride this weekend I thought I'd report back and provide a bit of information for anyone else that might be thinking of doing it.
The Fife Pilgrim Way is 104 km from Culross to St Andrews. I started off by riding into Edinburgh, meeting Dave and Russ on route and catching the 8.04 am train to Falkirk to meet Ian, the fourth of our pilgrims. The early morning chill was starting to lift and the day was looking very promising.
Our first stop was the Kelpies who were dazzling in the early morning sun but we didn't linger as the last Pilgrim, Dave's brother in law was waiting for us on the other side of the Kincardine bridge. We left the quiet back roads and took a tarmacked path to Culross. This is a pretty little village and we took a steep cobbled road up to the abbey for another quick photo opportunity.
We then followed the Forth to Torryburn and Cairneyhill. From here we left the tarmac and traffic for some very pleasant trail following the edge of woodlands. Whilst some single-track in the woods was looking very tempting, we knew we had a long way to go so stayed on the path of least resistance.
This took us to outskirts of Dunfermline and through Pittecrieff Park and Dunfermline Glen to Dunfermline Abbey and Palace and breakfast, coffee and a water top up.
From Dunfermline we followed roads and a cycle path to Kings eat and then turned off for Loch Fitty.
For the next section we were on gravel and then sweeping forest paths through Blairadam forest.
The gorse was in full bloom and looked and smelt amazing as we continued on to Loch Ore. The gravel claimed a couple of punctures which slowed us down but allowed a little breather and refreshments, it was now getting pretty warm.
Luckily we did have some moments in the trees to escape the sun and the trails were running fast. We were soon in Glenrothes via some more woodland paths which were busy but nice and wide and eventually we arrived in Markinch for some carbo loading and drinks in a very busy beer garden with Sky sports on in the background. The next few miles were following arable fields on washboard single-track. Although the going was bumpy at least progress was fast.
This took us back to civilisation for a bit before we climbed away from Kennoway on gravel farm tracks and forest roads.
The next few miles were a real highlight and too good to stop for many pictures. Narrow single-track that was engaging but not too challenging unless like Dave you now only had one brake working
We then had a long section skirting more fields with expansive views on the way to the pretty village of Ceres.
It would have been good to have a bit more time in Ceres and enjoy a drink by the river but instead it was over the cobbled bridge.
And on through more farmland. By now we were getting tired and it felt like we had been predominantly climbing but that may have been the late pub lunch sitting heavy in our stomachs. The next farm tracks were rough and hard going with heavy bikes and legs.
Luckily now we were done climbing and a gentle spin along the road in the evening sun took us to the edge of Craigtoun Park and some really enjoyable woodland single-track. It would've been even more fun on fresher legs and more forgiving bikes but it was a great end to the day.
It was then through parkland and golf courses to our destination for the night, a camping pod at Craigtoun Meadows holiday park and welcome hot showers. A taxi into St Andrews for curry and drinks was most welcome.
The last bit of the Pilgrims Way was left for the morning and we got up bright and early and enjoyed a quick fun blast into St Andrews for breakfast and a bit of sight seeing before heading to Leuchars to catch the train back to Edinburgh.
All in all it was a fantastic day and a bit. Thanks to the great weather we've had the going was good and with the gorse and the bluebells I think this was the perfect time to do this and would really recommend it. Maybe doing it over two days would allow more time for exploring but I enjoyed the physical challenge of doing 124km in a day on a laden gravel bike and it's left me wanting to go back and do some more exploring. Hopefully this is helpful.
You got great weather to do it.
It's a nice route with few surprises, and (IMO) much more fun (and rideable) than the coastal path.
I bet that farm road climb* after Ceres was a challenge with loaded bikes. 😊
*The one with the random bits of slab concrete
It certainly helped if you could stay on the concrete but it would've helped more if I'd had a lower gear.
Thanks for sharing - Im familiar with the trails from Culross to Glenrothes, but never ventured further east. Could link up with the Fife coastal path for a big two day ride? Agree this is the best time to ride, out today and the nettles are emerging.
Excellent post(s). very inspiring! It has been on my radar for a while and I've ridden small portions near the bridges during the winter.
I've been working on a big gravel-ish loop of St Andrews for Autumn which takes in a lot of of the Pilgrim Way, really looking forward to it although was worried about the undergrowth, mainly around the Ceres tracks...
Great write up and pictures.
I've ridden it the other way round and it is a lovely, easy long distance gravel route. Nothing scary but I'd say bring lunch - around the points you'd want food there are no nice options.
I prefer the coastal path but for different reasons (I tend to take my MTB when I ride that).
With hindsight we should've had somewhere earmarked for lunch even if that meant a wee detour.
I prefer the coastal path but for different reasons (I tend to take my MTB when I ride that)
Done it on gravel and mtb.
Some of it is lovely,but there are a few stretches* where it's overgrown,awkward and a real slog/PITA .
It also can be very busy at weekends.
I keep meaning to do it with detours.
*Between St Andrews and Crail
Splendid ride, did Dave manage not to fall off?
Nope. All his crashing at the Golfie is starting to pay off.
A very timely post.
My wife is attemptng to run this over 2 days this weekend and I will support her on the gravel bike/ van back up, so really handy to know its bikeable for me.
If it took you 2 two days on bikes then she will probably not make the full distance then , but looks a good time of year to do it and an adventure.
There will be quite a few runners out doing it this weekend as a pre-event recce so to speak ,a mock event by a race organiser for a feasabilty run though for a proper future ultra run event.
Is it well signed?
Yes, its well signed, but little discs on fence posts. So you may have to go looking for them. I always take wrong turnings in Kelty, coming into Kennoway, and coming out of Ceres......
@stevenmenmuir Great write up. I've also been eyeing this up as a handbike trip, you wouldn't have been paying too much attention but were there any narrow or locked gates to get through? Terrain all looks eminently handbikeable.
The signing is not too bad,but unless your GPSing, you could miss the stickers at ' bike speed' 😀
Cutting through the parkland section at Glenrothes is one area which has a lot of path options,and some of the small road/housing sections don't have obvious sticker/signage.
Again,this was at bike speed.
We could've done it one day but it didn't make sense to ride past the campsite at that time of day. I was glad to have the route on my Garmin, it would be quite easy to miss the wee route markers and it would add a fair bit of time in the pre GPS days. I'm not sure about the hand bike question but there were quite a lot of standard width footpath gates, are they about 3' wide?
@aggs - it's very easy in one day. I did it with someone who'd never ridden that far before and we rode back to central Edinburgh after.
Nice review and pics, looked great fun.
Staying near Crammond next month, might have a little look at this route for a day out.
Thanks, as expected for signage then, but handy to know the tricky bits , she will have the gpx track anyway.
She should do 35 ish miles the first day ,but the second day will be harder and she will go as far she can without digging TOO deep.
I will ask her to keep an eye out for access issues with handbike as far as she gets.
I am kinda hoping she finishes early on Sunday and we csn pop to Crail to see a bit of Supermoto Sunday pm! A bonus and free entry for spectators.
I will may ride the whole thing in suppprt but see how time goes and she goes on her run and logistics not really sorted my plan yet.