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is it easier to remove pedals that are well and truly stuck in the crank while the crank is on the bike, or not?
also, is there any way of helping free them up a bit other than dousing the thing in WD40?
are you going the right direction?
haha, yes!
I had one stuck so badly the only way was to remove the crank arm.
Stick the crank arm in a vice and use the longest pedal spanner available.
I had to take it to the LBS (DJ Cycles, Holcombe Brook) in the end, this was the technique they used.
Matt
yep i think i'm gonna have to take them to my LBS cos i've not got a vice to stick them in here. oh well.
If you arrange them at teh right angles you should be able to put your full weight on the spanner ( standing on it) whilst holding everything still with the rear brake
Stand on the pedal. Then try 🙂
Heat: Kettle of boiling water; or
Cold: Take crank off and bung it in the freezer over night.
Or cold then heat will probably do it.
PlusGas is better than WD40 if you can get hold of some.
If things get really stuck I find the best way to shift them is using heat, I use a small blowtorch. Things to be aware of are that although it's very effective you need to be careful with aluminium due to it having a relatively low melting point, all paint will disappear and you need to keep it away from flammable parts (like the seals and grease in your pedals). Tbh though I've only had to use it on a bike once when my brother had a really old racer with a stuck fast seat post. Ruined the paint on the frame but it freed the post with no damage to the frame.
And once you've got it out. Then a periodic undoing, greasing and re-doing. Takes me 2 or 3 minutes to do it and I never have a problem. Not being a pedant, honest. Having to frequently swap pedals between bikes helps keep everything clean and not-too-tight
yeah i realise it's my own fault they're stuck in. i'm replacing the cranks anyway so i'm not [i]that[/i] bothered if they get damaged, but i'd rather not have to buy new pedals as there's nothing wrong with these ones...
PSA: Still bearing the scars here, but I read (after the event) that it's a good idea to put your chain on the big chainring as it reduces the damage you can do to your knuckles if / when your hand slips during the undoing process - that is if you're holding a spanner / allen key on them.
Undoubtedly, the stamping on the spanner trick with the rear brake on is the best way to use brute force, but after that it's the chemicals / heat route I think.