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Overtightened BB?
 

[Closed] Overtightened BB?

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[#3464710]

If I have overtightened my Bottom Bracket (Hollowtech II) what damage could I have caused, how can I tell if I have caused any?

Also why do the threads have to be super clean?

cheers


 
Posted : 15/12/2011 3:23 pm
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Crushed spacers at a guess, but nowt worse I wouldn't have thought. Clean shell threads = no damage to BB threads and it will go in/out easier (guess)


 
Posted : 15/12/2011 3:29 pm
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Overtighten - possible to damage threads in either the bottom bracket shell itself or the HTII bearing casing.

Super clean because they're a comparatively fine thread - any muck or debris and you risk it damaging the threads.


 
Posted : 15/12/2011 3:32 pm
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What did you do to overtighten a BB? were you standing on the spanner?


 
Posted : 15/12/2011 3:34 pm
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What did you do to overtighten a BB? were you standing on the spanner?

I used my torque wrench, but it didn't click when I set it to use reverse thread on the drive side cup.


 
Posted : 15/12/2011 3:48 pm
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I fit Schlumpf BBs by jumping on the end of a 1m lever - a bit of overtightening won't do any harm...


 
Posted : 15/12/2011 3:50 pm
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I used my torque wrench, but it didn't click when I set it to use reverse thread on the drive side cup

I did exactly the same thing.

Are they supposed to work in both directions? Or do we just have cheap torque wrenchs?


 
Posted : 15/12/2011 4:23 pm
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I would think so, as your not supposed to undo stuff with a torque wrench. So I was putting quite a bit of force through it and expecting it to click, I then thought this can't be right. Mine is a Draper one...?


 
Posted : 15/12/2011 4:31 pm
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Mine is a draper as well


 
Posted : 15/12/2011 4:44 pm
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Mine will click in both directions but it depends on the type - another reason for not relying on one


 
Posted : 15/12/2011 4:50 pm
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another reason for not relying on one

Another... there are more reasons?


 
Posted : 15/12/2011 4:52 pm
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They are inaccurate at the ends of their range. This can lead to over tightening / snapping small bolts. You need to develop a feel for the bolts as well and use common sense as well as a torque wrench. personally I never use one on a bicycle


 
Posted : 15/12/2011 4:57 pm
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Half a turn past lock is how I was taught.... you could then check with a torque wrench. like TJ I don't use a torque wrench on a bicycle.


 
Posted : 15/12/2011 5:17 pm
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Half a turn past lock is how I was taught.... you could then check with a torque wrench. like TJ I don't use a torque wrench on a bicycle

Sorry for stupidity, but what is lock


 
Posted : 15/12/2011 5:19 pm
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TandemJeremy - Member

Mine will click in both directions but it depends on the type - another reason for not relying on one


TandemJeremy - Member

They are inaccurate at the ends of their range.


Forgive me, but why have one in the first place?
Besides any torque wrench is useless unless its regularly calibrated, and honestly who does that unless they're a mechanic?


 
Posted : 15/12/2011 5:31 pm
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We've a fancy digital one at work that bleeps. Probably cost a fortune. Sorry for helping turn your HT2 thread thread into a tool thread. ๐Ÿ™‚


 
Posted : 15/12/2011 5:38 pm
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I very rarely use a torque wrench - the most accurate ones I've found are the bending beam type - the clicking type seem very inconsistent, at least with ones that cost sensible money.


 
Posted : 15/12/2011 5:44 pm
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bigyinnn I have it for head bolts on motorcycle engines


 
Posted : 15/12/2011 5:50 pm
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threads on the cups are normally softish aluminium so might just possibly have damaged them, or just maybe the BB shell's thread but much less likely


 
Posted : 15/12/2011 5:51 pm
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Most stuff on bikes can be done with feel. How many people regularly check the calibration if their torque wrenches?


 
Posted : 15/12/2011 6:06 pm
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could someone describe how the damage to the threads will look/feel like?


 
Posted : 15/12/2011 6:21 pm
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It will wobble. If it's in and not falling out, it's most likely fine...


 
Posted : 15/12/2011 6:24 pm
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If you take the cup out and theres bits of swarf then it may be stripped. If you take it out and its clean, I wouldnt worry about it.


 
Posted : 15/12/2011 7:05 pm
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Sorry for stupidity, but what is lock

It's when the threads are fully engaged....


 
Posted : 15/12/2011 7:10 pm
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If its in and tight just leave it.


 
Posted : 15/12/2011 7:12 pm
 PJay
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Most ratchet torque wrenchs (with a reverse switch) only click in one direction (right handed). Those that click in both directions usually either have a head that can be pulled out and turned around or (like mine) allow the head to be pushed through, effectively allowing you to reverse the whole wrench (using the wrench in the same direction).

I find using a torque wrench on a bike reassuring although you need to learn not to follow them blindly.


 
Posted : 15/12/2011 7:20 pm
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Are you evcen sure you have over-tightened? The 35 N/m recommended by Shimano and Hope and others is seriously lots, and that seems to be a low torque compared to some BB's. I doubt many people could crank an all-in-one BB wrench to that torque.


 
Posted : 15/12/2011 7:24 pm
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Most stuff on bikes can be done with feel. How many people regularly check the calibration if their torque wrenches?

A cantilever type torque wrench like the Park can be recalibrated by a child intuitively. I have one of these for things like BB's and a small spring type for other duties.

How many people have the same size muscles? I find almost everyone without a torque wrench overtightens rotor bolts and stem and handlebar bolts.


 
Posted : 15/12/2011 7:29 pm