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Legend do you have a link to the correct bits for the lower shock mount kit.
I think it's fitted with the newer type bushes not metal ones.
The shaft that goes through the shock Bush has quite a bit of movement in said Bush when it's off the frame.
I had the pinch-bolt swingarm on mine. It initially needed a pair of bearings about twice a year (riding throughout Winter etc).
Over time I discovered the biggest factor effecting longevity was water/crap getting in there, rather than the "quality" brand of the bearing. The cheapest bearings lasted just fine so long as they were well sealed with bucket-loads of thick calcium based marine grease. It stays put and forms a barrier that muck sits on top of rather than working into.
The shaft (shock bolt) is fine to have play in it. The assembly is held together by being pinched by the frame/swingarm so that the reducer is held in place and the bush pivots around it. I would always swap out the (sacrificial) bush before the reducers and then try the shock bolts if there's still a problem.
The reducers are 22mm wide with 8mm bore. Bush is standard 12.7mm http://www.tftuned.com/heavy-duty-mount-kit-127mm-m8/p2937
Mine is about 6 rides old.
Felt awful after a run down the A470 at BPW.
The bolt on the linkage needed nipping up.
Was fine afterwards, but I was convinced I'd cracked the frame.
(This also acted as my excuse for mincing down, being overtaken by toddlers on Islabikes etc).
Slightly off topic but the Superstar bearing extractors are a relatively cheap way of making the bearing change a lot easier ...
http://www.superstarcomponents.com/en/bearing-removal-fitting-tool.htm
Cheers Legend.
So on the TFtuned site do I need a 22mm x 8mm kit or a 44mm x 8mm kit?
Ie is each reducer 22mm or is that 22mm total??
what nick was saying is correct
my 26" pinch bolt type five only needed 1 pr in 4 years and that seems std & pretty fair
after getting hold of the 650b version w/o the pinch bolt design ive gone through 3 prs already---now orange DID change bearing suppliers & im not back on the 4th pr which are from a different source & i dont expect any more problems but the spacers on the new 650b style can creak also which id bloody annoying .
orange make all the frames like this now w/o pinch bolt like they have done on the alpine for a while as thew overall swingarm is stronger-not my words btw.
the most important bit of info is not to get fussed whos bearins i should use i am the uk distributor for skf & i can tell you we do get a small problem with certain apllications but avoid cv and go for ss & pack them with a good quality teflon grease .
if your surname is shaikh and you like branded bs then ill sell you x2 6902 skf bearings for £20.00 which will last no longer than a std ss.
i want the pinch bolt design back
renton - Member
Cheers Legend.
So on the TFtuned site do I need a 22mm x 8mm kit or a 44mm x 8mm kit?
Ie is each reducer 22mm or is that 22mm total??
POSTED 2 HOURS AGO # REPORT-POST
It's the 22mm ones you need. If you have a look on the site there's a hardware finder which shows how the measurements work
You won't have side to side play in the swingarm from the shock bushings, it'll be up and down.
You can tell this by holding the bike by the saddle, both wheels on the ground, and gently push a little down on the saddle and lift back up - movement is that will tell you if you have a worn bushing.
Side to side play is either your bearings (which you changed) or the wheels bearings. Or a loose 12mm axle. I'm betting it's wheel bearings.
However, the swingarm on the Five29 does flex enough to see it. It shouldn't knock, but it will easily flex.
Rickon I reckon you could be onto something there bud.
Rocking the wheel whilst holding it at the 3 and 9 position gives the same knocking as just rocking the wheel at the top.
It's not the shock Bush.
Presumably it must have been better in some way than the pinch bolt setup....
If I where to hazard a guess, easier/cheaper to produce.
Hora you weirdo how on earth is that helpful ?
How long do they last. ?
FWIW the ones on my 2008 frame are still fine.... 😉
as to the design I would expect a swingarm without the pinch-bolt gap in it to be stronger, or could be made lighter for same strength, than one with, and certainly requires less operations to manufacture so would be cheaper too.
nothing wrong with using loctite on the outside of the bearings to enhance fit if required. it's what loctite 638 or 680 is made for. we live in an imperfect world.
Further update.
The knocking has gone whoop whoop.
Took the rear wheel out and had a look at the axle set up and found the collar that preloads the bearing slightly loose so have tightened it and the knocking has gone.
However, when it's tight the bearings feel a bit rough so I may back it off slightly.
I've got recent bearings in mine which haven't had much use, plus newish long life shock bushings and I've still got play. Mines a 2010 model with the old spacer design.
Any thoughts?