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Ooops look what hap...
 

[Closed] Ooops look what happened to my mates hub!

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Sending it back for replacement...

[img] [/img]


 
Posted : 23/01/2009 9:09 am
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There seems to be a fair bit of damage to the freewheel splines as well.


 
Posted : 23/01/2009 9:11 am
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So how'd he do that?


 
Posted : 23/01/2009 9:25 am
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That's not the first hope hub I've seen that happen to. A mate of mines did the same about 18 months ago. Hope sorted it out nice and quick though.


 
Posted : 23/01/2009 9:27 am
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Wouldn't have happened to a CK ๐Ÿ™‚

Hope sorted it out nice and quick though.

But did they pay for the wheel rebuild?


 
Posted : 23/01/2009 9:32 am
 DezB
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Look at the state of that freehub. Is he using a cheap cassette?


 
Posted : 23/01/2009 9:56 am
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that must be one loose cassette


 
Posted : 23/01/2009 10:02 am
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Is that rust showing through the crack (indicating that its been like it for a while).


 
Posted : 23/01/2009 10:07 am
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Dibbs - I didn't break the shell of my CK but I did fracture the axle. And those tooth marks on the freehub are the consequence of using a road cassette. It's because the sprockets are mostly individual rather than multiples on a splined carrier. The torque is significantly greater and as a result the freehub gets these characteristic teeth marks.

It's about time they started making close ratio MTB cassettes for DH


 
Posted : 23/01/2009 10:08 am
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The damage to the freehub happens if you use any cassette with individual cogs on an alloy freehub - no avoiding it. It doesnt do anything other than look a bit tatty.


 
Posted : 23/01/2009 10:09 am
 hora
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I think his wheel is broken.


 
Posted : 23/01/2009 10:10 am
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some of that metal putty they sell down at the handyman's will sort that. Good as new.


 
Posted : 23/01/2009 10:18 am
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A couple of hose clips & the job's a good'un


 
Posted : 23/01/2009 10:23 am
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I did that to a DT hub once. Switched to Hopes and never had a problem since!


 
Posted : 23/01/2009 10:34 am
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The damage to the freehub happens if you use any cassette with individual cogs on an alloy freehub - no avoiding it. It doesnt do anything other than look a bit tatty.

No, it's caused by using a cassette with a steel carrier rather than an alloy one.


 
Posted : 23/01/2009 10:40 am
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Don't think much of those tiles, perhaps you could clean the grout


 
Posted : 23/01/2009 10:41 am
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KingTut thats what he's saying, road cassette's don't have a carrier hence the damage.


 
Posted : 23/01/2009 10:43 am
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[i]I did that to a DT hub once. Switched to Hopes and never had a problem since! [/i]

Hmm, you know that that's a Hope Pro II up there right?

That said I've never had a problem with Hope hubs.


 
Posted : 23/01/2009 10:44 am
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Yep, Gavin, that's why I said it. Odd to have seen that happen!


 
Posted : 23/01/2009 10:52 am
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[img] [/img]

I dunno where you get the road cassette thing from, Ultegra 6500 and Dura Ace 7700 both have sprockets on alu spiders, like XT and XTR do on the MTB. Cheap cassettes have individual sprockets, decent ones have a carrier.


 
Posted : 23/01/2009 11:05 am
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Nothing a zip tie won't fix!


 
Posted : 23/01/2009 11:40 am
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>Is that rust showing through the crack (indicating that its been like it for a while)

It's an aluminium shell so it won't be rust (not on the hub shell anyway) what you can see is probably part of the ratchet/pawl mechanism


 
Posted : 23/01/2009 11:45 am
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Regardless of what cassette was used - how is that going to cause the hub shell to split ? The freehub isn't attached to the hub shell, it sits on the axel and whatever freehub system used clicks agaisnt the hub.

If anything strain on the freehub is more likely to break the freehub itself not the shell.


 
Posted : 23/01/2009 11:49 am
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Separate issues.


 
Posted : 23/01/2009 12:07 pm
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Pah...there's another year or two in that wheel yet.
Stop whinging.


 
Posted : 23/01/2009 12:07 pm
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are ProIIs designed for DH use?


 
Posted : 23/01/2009 12:25 pm
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It's an aluminium shell so it won't be rust (not on the hub shell anyway) what you can see is probably part of the ratchet/pawl mechanism

Really? thanks for sharing that with me. ๐Ÿ˜•


 
Posted : 23/01/2009 12:28 pm
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brakes - Member

are ProIIs designed for DH use?

Hope so, as they sell 150mm versions.


 
Posted : 23/01/2009 12:30 pm
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the only way to go is a steel free hub body, I mashed a hope pro ali up with a PG990.........to much power..lol


 
Posted : 23/01/2009 1:11 pm
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the casette eating the freehub is common im afraid where hope is concerned.

the steel cassettes eat the freehubs like butter.

ive never seen a hub fail that severly before.

im the first to admit im not the biggest hope fan but due to a freebie recently im runnung hope hoops with pro11 hubs so we will see.

we are all aware though that if its hopes fault they sort it & quick.


 
Posted : 23/01/2009 1:27 pm
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I suppose a bearing pressed in at an angle could over stress the alu causing it to fatigue crack in time. The rust is prob from the ratchet ring in the hub, perhaps excessive corrosion has caused the ring to expand (by rusting) against the hub shell and splitting it?


 
Posted : 23/01/2009 1:34 pm
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I think the same thing happened to someone else's hub on here, was it Gingerflash? For what it's worth, I have two sets and never had a problem with either. I did have a struggle removing a cheap steel cassette from one but it wasn't seriously damaged, just a few little nicks in the splines. I don't think it's an issue in use, only when you need to remove the cassette.

Geetee1972, SRAM have just brought out a close ratio DH cassette, the PG970 DH, although it's built for strength rather than weight and has a steel carrier. Nice red spacers though.

[img] [/img]


 
Posted : 23/01/2009 1:49 pm
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Do Hope do a steel freehub body...?


 
Posted : 23/01/2009 1:53 pm
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yes


 
Posted : 23/01/2009 2:09 pm
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Exactly the same happened to mate in Spain last year. An identical failure. It just let go as he was riding along up a climb. Went off with quite a crack.... All sorted by hope though....


 
Posted : 23/01/2009 2:49 pm
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anything to do with a drum-tight wheel build, ie spoke tension and a bump cracked the hub? I don't build wheels so i'm speculating.


 
Posted : 23/01/2009 2:58 pm
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"anything to do with a drum-tight wheel build"
no its more to do with the body being made of extruded billet thats machined in to a hub shape, whether than alloy thats forged in to a hub shape the machined. In extruded billet the molecules generally end up pointing the same way, making it very strong in one plane and not as strong in another. When you forge the shape the molecules end up being more random, thus generally strong.

Yoyr mate should take it back to the shop that sold him the wheel, his contract is with them, Hope will replace the hub body, and the shop should rebuild the the wheel. (Unless its quite old, that is)


 
Posted : 23/01/2009 3:54 pm