[Closed] On One Fat bike

Looks nice. Can't see myself realistically owning one though due to the lack of sand and snow on my doorstep.

Great Iditabike/similar bike though, at a guess.

Can it be run as a 29er?

I think they all can druidh.

Offset rims may be an issue on 135mm bikes but Velocity do one and it's farm to drill your own if you can find one the right profile. I may do this and flog my Heckler.

What happened to that aluminum FB frame you had Al?

Sold to epicyclo

Farm? Easy

JohnClimber - Member

TheBrick - Member
but really most of the time there particular deviations away from a "standard bike" are not needed.

They are needed if this sort of riding is on your doorstep.

[img] [/img]

Taken on this mornings ride

What? Firm, flat sand? You could ride a track bike on that!

No you couldn't you knob.

I think John Climber's denying you all his best picture [s]he ever took[/s] was ever taken of him whilst lying on a stretcher...........

Llandegla Freeride courses and silly bikes don't mix

Llandegla Freeride courses and [s]silly bikes[/s] [b]skill-less riders[/b] don't mix

Coastkid manages to style his Fatbike just fine off the tiniest little bumps on his lacal jaunts, pretty sure he'd sail over everything at the freeride area at Gnartress if he could be arsed to take it. 😉

I've always thought Alloy Fat bikes made way more sense than the usual steel. Funnily enough, a guy on our local ride yesterday said he'd buy a Fatbike if Brant designed one. must remember to hold him to his promise 😆

That frame with its steeper geometry, low step-over, massive clearances and higher bottom bracket could form the basis for a modern Cleland mudbike.

[url= http://clelandcycles.wordpress.com/ ]Cleland Cycles website[/url]

Higher BB would be handy

[url= http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7159/6679750795_17b8662295_b.jp g" target="_blank">http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7159/6679750795_17b8662295_b.jp g"/> [/img][/url]

Hi epicyclo,

Definitely a trials motorbike look going on there.

I would recommend the use of an extra long mudflap on the front wheel to intercept all the water and grit before it sprays the chainset and bottom bracket. We have tried Sturmey Archer hub-brakes in the past and found that if water got in it got trapped and then oozed out as a black liquid for ages. We now use Shimano Roller-Brakes that are more powerful, better cooled than the Sturmeys and when packed full of waterproof grease, are completely waterproof

At Cleland we believe in zero maintenance and big mud clearances despite our use of mudguards. Below is a picture of a modern Cleland test machine. Despite being a full suspension machine everything is protected. The chain runs through tubes, the mudguards move with the suspension and are mounted above the fork bridge and an seatstay bridge so that the tyre/frame clearances are not reduced. It has additional grease ports so that parts can be re-greased without disassembly. With over two years of mud-riding I have done no maintenance apart from the occasional chain lube and squirt of grease, and no parts have needed replacing or repairing.

I hope to use this know how to build a Fat-Bike with similar levels of protection. The On One Fat-Bike with its extra steep geometry and highe bottom bracket is a serious contender. Though the extra wide rear axle would could limit the drive chain possibilities.

[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/38236150@N06/6936555047/sizes/l/in/photostream/ ]Cleland NRS[/url]