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[i]But there're fewer teeth![/i]
🙂
Damn, I'm even getting basic grammar wrong now, that is how cross I am!
surely grinding teeth off will make no difference, since it is not thr number of teeth, but the size of the ring that affects the gearing? a 16 tooth ring, with 4 teeth ground off is still the same size as a 16, just with less teeth.
If that's the case, why are singlespeed ratios always quoted in teeth rather than ring diameter then? I think you maybe need to think a bit harder before posting 🙄
surely grinding teeth off will make no difference, since it is not thr number of teeth, but the size of the ring that affects the gearing? a 16 tooth ring, with 4 teeth ground off is still the same size as a 16, just with less teeth
If that's the case, why are singlespeed ratios always quoted in teeth rather than ring diameter then? I think you maybe need to think a bit harder before posting
Isn't it that since teeth are a constant size there's a direct relation between the number of teeth and the circumference of the ring
[i]Isn't it that since teeth are a constant size there's a direct relation between the number of teeth and the circumference of the ring [/i]
Look up! Something went over your head 🙂
Isn't it that since teeth are a constant size there's a direct relation between the number of teeth and the circumference of the ring
Exactly, which is why it makes a lot more sense to have the same diameter rings as standard, but with a different number of teeth. No need for different size rings at all and that has to reduce manufacturing costs, no?
Yes, Ison in the UK still have some 26" steel Ala Carte frames with the Alternator dropouts. Salsa have stopped making 26" bikes do if you want one get in quick! I have one of the 26" ones and they are really well put together steel frames. The dropouts are the same across all Alternator bikes so no worries about spares etc.
GB
Do you ever get the impression that half the people in a thread are taking the mick and the other half taking it seriously?
If you wanted to be really 'hard' you could get a big plate cog, like a 36 tooth or something, and grind off all but 2 opposing teeth. You could tell your mates that you run 32/2. The downsides are that you would need to pedal really carefully and your new ring wouldn't be very durable.
Is it 2002 again? 😕
[i]misses the lil red 'bred[/i]
Isn't it that since teeth are a constant size there's a direct relation between the number of teeth and the circumference of the ringLook up! Something went over your head
Doh!
I have a hangover
That's my excuse and Im sticking to it 😀
Fork Travel: 80 - 100 mm
Can't find reference to the head angle but my preference is toward long travel slack angles.
That said I wouldn't be so averse to dipping my toe in to the short-travel XC style hardtail waters at some point in the future. It would be good to see this kind of solution appear on more bikes, that is of course providing that it actually works in practice.
Anyway Salsa's solution has proven that my original 'request' was not so 'moon on a stick' as I had first presumed.
I heard they are changing their name to on-twenty seven. 😉
The drop-outs on the Pace RC129 look quite tidy and certainly work well in practice. Once set up I pretty much forget about them.
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Sliding dropouts on my voodoo bokor 29 work well and are tidy:
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Shows them reasonably well. Just noticed that's an older one with vee mounts, but mine's the same less the vee mounts.
I wonder what the next must have niche will be ?
All the nicheists round by me went 26SS>69SS> 29SS> Phat.
Whats next, 650b ?
Right - 29er SS won't be appearing, as a quick sum suggests that frame, carbon fork, disc brakes, nice wheels, Middleburn cranks, decent bar/stem comes in at around £999 RRP as a complete.
Buying all the bits on our site is £1090 apparently.
Can't see us selling many of those.
Why not a cheap 29er ss? I know when i was buying whilst there were good deals at OO for inbred 29ers, they were better kit than I wanted. I wanted a steel fork, cheap cranks etc. to dip a toe in the 29er waters.
Having said that, I'm liking the big wheels now so might go balls deep. As it were.
Hi Brant
Why does it need to be nice wheels & middleburn cranks, why not own cheap wheels and deore cranks. giving those who want to try something new and chance to test it out for not much outlay, and upgrade if they enjoy it?
I think this is where on-one had a dilemma.
'most' singlespeed riders who'll spend more than £500 are probably experienced and will buy somthing above 'base model'.
When they coudl sell cheap v-braked bikes for £400 complete people took a punt on them as SS thinkign they could add gears later if they wanted to, but at £700 or £800 people will think twice?
Like this? http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=67795
It has Middleburns and nice wheels as that's what we have in stock.
Hmmm, maybe I'd be better off with a roadrat then for commuting.... £575 at the moment with v-brakes and steel forks, £650 with discs, £750 with discs and a carbon fork.
you probably know more about how that sold @ CRC than we do brant but that's the sort of package that on-one used to put together fairly regularly?
I think, at that price and as someone who's 29er curious I would be tempted buy somethign with on-one geometry and slightly more 'off road' tyres.
tbh, if the Vitus had a slightly more off-road bent I'd be looking at what I could do to get it.
scruff - MemberI wonder what the next must have niche will be ?
All the nicheists round by me went 26SS>69SS> 29SS> Phat.
Whats next, 650b ?
only for fence-sitters 😉
oh,and anyone whos even slightly nichetastic knows that 36ers are the only way forward....
oh,and anyone whos even slightly nichetastic knows that 36ers are the only way forward....
Fairly niche but surely for full nicheness you need to go recumbent, or maybe even trike.
A "29er converter" bundle ( http://www.on-one.co.uk/c/q/frameset_bundles) might make sense? 29er frame, fork, wheels, tyres and tubes; everything that someone with a bike already needs to convert in one bundle that they can sell on if they hate.
back to the drop-out question:
While I appreciate the Salsa solution: what's - in practice - wrong with this style of drop-outs?
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[/img] Lynskey
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[/img] Canfield Nimble9
they look sleek and non-fussy, you can run SS or geared...
Do they creak, come lose? is the brake-alignement an issue?
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wwaswas - Member
EBB has been the best method I've used for chain tension adjustment, particularly when it comes to trailside puncture repairs.
Why do you need to adjust the chain tension after fixing a puncture? Isn't it just wheel out, wheel in without any changes to chain tension/wheel position/brake alignment? I wouldn't want to fiddle with my BB trailside anyway, would I? 😕
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niche:
[img] http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcT1jllCuEm5NSMabsjTUZzpWFi1gaaVap04EvsHbs_zU2EiVhx2exJtjWQaOA [/img]
should lend itself to drifting (not much else though, I suppose)
Hock - I meant physically removing the back wheel from a dropout is easier with one that allows the wheel to be removed without releasing chain tension by dropping it off the sprocket/chainring first.
got it! 😉
Are the people moaning about SS dropouts on this thread for real?
Are you sure you're not looking for a solution to a problem which doesn't exist..
Surly 1x1 with track ends + tuggnut. NEVER slipped. No bother. Job done
Surly 1x1 with track ends + tuggnut. NEVER slipped. No bother. Job done
running with disc brakes?
I had disc brake misalignment in horizontal track ends despite tugnut (one sided though).
I'm still curious what's the issue (if there is one) with those sliding vertical dropouts like Nimble9 above.
They and arguably the Salsa solution should be perfect as long as they don't slide'n'creak, no?!
the sliding drop outs like pictured above are the perfect solution to me and one I'd fit to any frame I was designing for geared or SS. Well except for an eccentric BB of course.
I hate frames with oval brake disc holes that mean you have to adjust the brake position when tensioning the chain.
On one slot drop outs, no fuss work fine bothe singlepeed and with gears. How often do you need to tension a chain, once a month? Most times the brake will be fine anyway.
Should be standard on all bikes.
(Brant: please can I have a new Scandal just like the old one but with bigger wheels?)
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How about a floating chainring? That's what is sometimes done on tandem timing chains, some long recumbent chains and the like. You bung a chainring in the middle, held only by the tensdion of the upper and lower chains. Pick the right size, and move it fore or aft a bit, and you can compensate for any tension you need to take up.
It'd probably only work with an elevated chainstay, but they're due a comback by now anyway...
Though my EBB Tinbred is still fine. Still works.