Old Reverb, though an A2 model. Has the classic vertical play, which at times is a good cm or two, sometimes just mm.
Also has side to side play (so new top cap / bushings).
Also has wear on the stanchion (because of the side to side play, crud in there, scratched up). Not fussed as it's generally cosmetic.
Way out of warranty, and even if I tried I hear Fisher are clamping down on blindly replacing Reverbs now.
Got a spare and wanted to use this to mess about DIY servicing. However with the state it's in, am I looking at the full service kit (£59) to sort the vertical play out, or even more to it than that? I'll have to get a top cap also (£30). Given a service from many places is around £80ish, and a non-stealth new Reverb can be had for twice the price roughly, it kind of makes it not worth bothering.
Or is it a much simpler/cheaper fix for the vertical play, DIY?
Though the whole vertical play thing seems solved or easy fixed with this design...
https://www.pinkbike.com/news/bikeyoke-revive-not-just-another-drop-post.html
and from that it suggests the problem is just air and oil mix, so just servicing a Reverb (hassle that it is) would fix it, so I might just need the basic service kit (plus top cap)? Though seems there are special tools also and stuff for measuring the oil?
Or I just buy a BikeYoke Revive 😉
The vertical play (sagging / squishiness??) is just air in the wrong place, and can be sorted without any parts if you feel lucky.
If it has excessive rotational play, you'd need the full service kit to get the bigger(?) brass keys.
Side to side play *could* be the lower bushing (which seems to delaminate / wear first) and is included in the basic service kit (~£10:00). This also includes all the seals you need to do a mechanical service on the post (it's a shame that more people don't do this :-/ )
I doubt that it would be worth replacing the stanchion.
It may well be worth getting it serviced, but if you want a "learning experience", it might be worth getting the basic service kit and doing a rebuild using the original seals. It should work for a while and it'll give you a proper idea of what's involved (it's not too hard). You'll also see how much play is left after replacing the bottom bushing.
Be really cautious dismantling a post with sag as it is impossible to de-pressurise the oil side. The pressure is only released when you remove the inner seal head (or if you take the poppet valve out without dismantling the rest of the post first. For reference, it comes out like a bullet - seriously!).
You'll need some of the right oil to rebuild it with. The correct position of the IFP can be found by searching the internet - you don't *need* the IFP height tool.
Have a read of this:
http://t3mppu.kapsi.fi/2016/01/04/rockshox-reverb-rebuild-without-reverb-bleed-tools/
ETA:
Though the whole vertical play thing seems solved or easy fixed with this design...
If the reverb were designed slightly differently, so that any air in the oil ends up in the reservoir side, rather than the main cylinder, it wouldn't have the problem. Likewise, if you could add a bleed valve to the top of a reverb, you could fix the sagging easily.
Slightly cheeky but of self promotion here - mods if this is a problem please let me know.
I was servicing my Reverb post a few weeks back and found the bush in the top cap was worn. No problem, buy another one i thought. Turns out you can only buy one as part of a complete top cap assembly for the bargain sum of £40 or so. I'm sure I'm not alone in being slightly miffed by this.
So... I've been working with Igus to get a custom Bush made and it's now ready to go. I've built them into my 2 Reverbs any they are now perfect - no play. If you have the same problem (fore/aft play in your post) the bushes are now available here:
https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rockshox-Reverb-Top-Cap-Bush/122851668760?_mwBanner=1
Finally it is worth noting that in both my posts the original Rockshox bush was delaminating with the PTFE lining peeling off in big lumps. I guess it was only a matter of time before the PTFE broke up completely leaving metal on metal - not good. So whether you get a genuine RS bush as part of a new top cap or one of my bushes I would definitely recommend replacing the bush if you find any play.
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