So.
My drivetrain is currently an XT (non-Shadow+) rear mech (with an extra cage spring hole to give a bit more tension), XT 11-36 and T-Rex, Works Components 32T and an SLX chain. Had the N/W since Xmas, and the 10 speed stuff about 4-5 months.
Last couple of rides out, the chain is coming off - a lot. To the extent that is spoiling rides. The chain seems to come off both the bottom of the ring, and the top - no pattern as to which.
Can the wide teeth wear so as to no longer hold the chain on satisfactorily?
Is the lateral wear of the chain causing it to pop off easily?
Should I just get a Zee mech?
I'm probably going to get a new chain anyway, as this spring/summer has been a lot wetter than last year, and I'm riding more, so it's probably no bad thing.
The only thing that I can see would cause this is a non clutch mech tbh.
It's been fine for months, though. Was off all over the place at GT and Inners today on fairly smooth trails, and rock solid on Gold Run.
Raceface NW here with an X0 short cage clutch mech. At first it was spot on, no problems whatsoever, then I lost the chain racing at Gisburn then on every stage at the Grizedale Enduro, then not long after again at Degla. Chain, cassette and ring were all new together. Chain seems spot on in terms of length, maybe I could get away with it being a tad shorter but opted for a guide instead.
I'm now running a direct mount top guide to be safe.
Got a new chain ordered from CRC - going with SRAM this time. Definitely seems like the lateral movement means the chain can drop, but we'll see what the chain (and a ~Zee mech next pay day) do.
Zee mech and Works n/w here on a hardtail with perfect chain length, and have dropped the chain about 4 or 5 times now, the latest was just yesterday, but the worst was during a race run at the Llandegla mini enduro, which really ballsed my night up!
Some of the teeth are definitely starting to wear a little so rotated it a quarter of a turn the other week which has made no difference at all.
I think it's partly down to my bad back pedalling technique when swapping over from one outside foot to the other when cornering on rough stuff, this and being in a highish gear combined with a very slightly reluctant freewheel causing a bit of unwanted chain slackness.
Karl33to - MemberSome of the teeth are definitely starting to wear a little so rotated it a quarter of a turn the other week which has made no difference at all.
Why would you rotate the chainring? Am genuinely interested as I cant see what it would do.
In theory, more power put down when cranks are pushing down means that there is more wear on two opposing sides of the ring. Rotate it by quarter turn and those more worn bits aren't sitting where the chain would be loaded under max power, so there is less chance of skipping/slipping.
In practice, never made a blind bit of difference for me!
I run a Works NW with a none clutch X9 mech. Even with a rear mech that is starting to get wobbly and struggling to shift into the easiest gear due to pivot, wear a cassette and chain that need replacing and a less than smooth technique over the rooty bits I can't remember when I last dropped my chain.
Chain line is spot in though and chain length set so it's 'just' long enough to work at full compression.